tested ms confirmed - "stop lamp" fuse pulled = stand still burnouts allowed
 

I thought it was your abs fuse that needed to be pulled but it is indeed your STOP LAMP fuse in our fuse box by drivers side foot panel that needs to be pulled. It's a 10 amp fuse . No dash lights came on until after I did the burnout...

Restarted the car and all lights went back to normal.

When the Wifey gets home I am gonna see if it does eliminate your brake lights ...


I wish I knew this earlier !

Thanks to whomever suggested this In one of the 12.9 threads !

thank you for that great news.
will have to try it tomorrow night.

Z

Good job!:tup:

your brake lights do not work while the fuse is out... So dont do it until you get to the track.

anyone mind taking a pic of where this fuse is? I don't see a fuse box near the foot pedals...or maybe im going blind lol
thanks.


EDIT:
OK i guess i AM going blind or maybe cause its 3 20 am
Any issues with pulling this fuse? or does everything just go back to normal once you put it back in?

Its a pain to remove and a bigger pain to reinstall, I use needle nose plyers on the fuse,
And the burn outs are good 7000 in second gear gets the tires hot. You can see my burn outs in the " drag section , Under Z eliminator drag videos,
I have drag radials on the car.

Z

http://deslit.com/stop01.jpg

http://deslit.com/stop02.jpg

This is the fuse box right? and it's the stop lamp fuse that needs to be taken out? I just don't want to be mistaken.
How is it a pain to remove and reinstall? When I look at the fuse box by the driver side, it seemed pretty straightforward. I quickly found the stop lamp fuse. Shouldn't the little plastic "fuse clip" be enough to take it out?

Everything goes back to normal though, when you reinsert the fuse? Nothing out of the ordinary happens?

Yup, use the fuse puller up in the top right and take out the "stop lamp" fuse...

you will not have break lights while its out but everything goes right back to normal after you put it back in...

Wow -- great find! :tup:

thanks

I don't know about this. Don't most racetracks require you to have working brake lights to be allowed to run in a street drag event?

i did it with no problems... I am not big on rep points but for some reason I have like none and feel like I share some use full info.. seems the only way is to post some *** and titties, lol...

hook me up with some rep fella's, ha

I think they require a rear parking lamp. I don't believe it has to be a functioning brake light. I could be wrong though...

Just pull it in the staging lanes or pits... they'll never even notice.

You have been Reped :hello:

x2 :tiphat:

Just wondering, but is there a simple way to bypass this and get working brake lights while fooling the ECU? Seems to me that shouldn't be all that hard to wire up, and then you have the best of both worlds.

It may be trickier than one would think because of the CAN bus...

or CAN't BUS in this case?

See what I did there...

Really? You can't just run a wire from the brake pedal to the lights and bypass the OEM wiring entirely? :confused:

I'm pretty sure the CAN bus will freak out. I'm not sure how much of the system is controlled via the bus, but I'm sure it will cause some issues.

well thats easy, if the fuse is only for a burnout... get a fuse, blow it, solder two leads to each side of the fuse, insert fuse in brake light fuse slot, run the wires to a button w/ (install a good fuse on the "hot" wire going to the button).

flip the button, brake lights are cut, burnout done, flip button back, brake lights back on.

Good Suggestion :tiphat:

a mega rep for that

That is a good idea... someone needs to do this with a brief write up.

you're welcome, I knew it was this way on my 350, so I was sure it would work on the 370. I actually have it on a toggle switch in my 350, it makes it much easier. ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../Track/fix.jpg

Could you make a brief write up for those of us not so handy with a soldering gun? :o

:iagree:

or link to one?

I just pull the fuse ..works great on the 7 AT

If someone industrious on here wants to build an easy plug and play way to do this, complete with a switch, my cash is standing by :D

The fuse does the job...

<------has a switch but not on the brake fuse, likes brake lights

Old Thread but did anyone ever make a switch?

The guy above with the white 350Z. Named 350Z_2nr

Thanks, I messaged him but I think it's pointless.

Are there no electricians in your area? Any $3 toggle switch from a hardware store would do.

I am sure there is, I just wanted to see if anybody else has done this already. I'll probably have to do a DIY when I get home

The FSM should tell you everything you need to know - wire colors, connector layouts, &c. There is a chance that there is a signal from the brake lights to the ECM (or other module) that may be easier to work with.

Ya I really didn't want to add another toggle switch in my car b/c I have one for my purge,bottle heater, remote bottle opener< next to be installed and obviously that actual switch for nitrous. So that's just 4 already.

You might be able to break the signal back to the ECM (if it exists) and disable traction control permanently without affecting the lights. The FSM is your friend. If you run into problems sussing out the info from the FSM, holler.

Have you searched this site? Shirley someone has done this before.

Ya I've tried different words in the search, if it is on the site someone did not use any tags. Thanks for the help, I'll let you know in a couple months when I get home if I run into any problems.

So did anyone ever make the switch for sale?