I've just gone out to try this and found that merely switching ESP OFF will not allow for a burnout on my MY12 370Z. The throttle/valves will near instantly be force-shut and revs drop.
Likewise, merely pulling the fuse will not prevent the ESP from kicking in.

Only ESP OFF + pulling Fuse works... and how it works!!
My rear tyres lit up so fast to easy I nearly lost control over my rear end :driving:
Well, it's been my 1st RWD burnout anyway, gonna get more practice once I built a nice toggle switch for the fuse

Cheers

The better way would be to put a toggle switch on the brake signal wire to the ecu, this way your brake lights still work.

Just repped ya. Good find!:tup:

:iagree: It certainly would be a better way to do. I'm gonna do that. I haven't yet dug into the Z's ECU wiring but will do some research on it.
Back in the days I knew every wire of my OBDI car and hijacked about 50% of them :p

Check out this short and simple thread, it covers it for ya!

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...-boosting.html

In that thread I simply talk about doing it, and mention that I had not actually done it myself yet. Later on in the year, I did end up doing it. It works perfectly.

Instead of putting the wire on a toggle switch, I just cut it and taped it back. With UpRev I disabled the P1805 code, and this way I did not need to bother with a toggle switch.

Hi phunk,
I've been searching the service manual for the right wire to hijack. Might you point me in the right direction if you've already figured it out?
I found more than one potential STOP LAMP SWITCH:
Terminal 122 of ECM connector M107
Terminal 116 of BCM connector M123
Terminal 118 of BCM connector M123
http://www.prelude.myzen.co.uk/Temp/burnout1.jpghttp://www.prelude.myzen.co.uk/Temp/burnout3.jpg
I found the STOP LIGHT FUSE number 7 in the driver side fuse box, but failed to trace it to it to one of the above terminals. Ultimately I'd like to understand why interrupting the brake wire keeps the brake light working while the fuse won't. The manual's wiring diagrams are hard to read :icon14:
http://www.prelude.myzen.co.uk/Temp/burnout2.jpg

I am curious to actually how much pressure is still being applied to the rear brakes when doing this? Obviously this isn't like line lock, which is what, if given the option, I would do, but I am going to be installing my Z1 2 piece rotors with XP10's on the rear and I don't want to destroy the rotors nor the pads.

Please see te thread linked in my last post, it shows you exactly which wire.

IMHO, by the time you have a tire on the back of your car worth doing a long burnout with, you will have removed those brakes for base model 350z brakes and 15-16" wheels.

I agree with you, if I was going for fully drag racing. I would also add go about a degree positive camber on the rear and 20k springs. But I want to do a little drag racing here and there while still building towards road racing. A controllable brake bias system would ideal....

V1H, in the connector pinouts you posted, notice the H.S. to the upper left of each connector. That tells you that you are looking at the connector from the Harness Side. The wire color abbreviations are not always intuitive - there is a list of color abbrevs in one of the first sections of the FSM. Hope that helps.

Many thanks guys! I now know that it is a PINK wire on Terminal 122 of ECM Connector M107. Was on the right trail :tiphat:

STILL can't brake stand!
 

I pulled the stop lamp fuse, my brake lights went out, ABS and slip lights came on, but throttle is still cut when I apply the brakes. Traction control was off. Is there something different with the nismo? I sure wouldnt think so, but this is frustrating :mad:

When you say ESP, are you talking about the traction control button?

I don't have a Nismo, but I have the same problem as you do with my 2015 370Z. It is very frustrating.