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Keeping temps down on track?
Who has ducted oil coolers and radiator with a sport bumper? I have a 34 row with a bumper cutout, and some slots in my fender liner, but still saw 260° oil temps at my first track day, along with 230°+ coolant temps. I figure ducting and/or a oil cooler can is my next step to keep temps in check for the future. Also, are people running stock fender liners or getting rid of them to get more air flow?
Looking for some inspiration on how to make some ducting and if anyone has general advice, it’d be much appreciated! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c3bf89f635.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Vent your hood with Trackspec vents.
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Do you drive your car in the rain with the trackspec vents? How’s that work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I think vented hood or not the engine bay gets wet in heavy rain.
Dealerships often pressure wash engine bays with the engine running apparently, to save time. I pressure wash my engine often, and turn on the car to dry it out. Maybe not a great idea if you have exposed filters on cold air intakes...Not sure about that. That being said it would probably be fairly easy to fab some removable rain guards that attach underneath the hood if you're really worried about it. |
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Good points… the water issue (sounds like not really an issue like I thought) and fear of cutting up my OEM hood were steering me away from hood vents. But I may reconsider now! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Also, for the track, I run Engine Ice for coolant, and have the trackspec vents...
Only problem I had last time on the track, I found out I had a coolant leak... car went into limp mode.... Till that I had no problem with temps going to the critical stage What oil are you running? I run - Mobil 1 FS European Car Formula Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-40 Rusty may have some suggestions too... |
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I also switched to M1 0W-40 right before the track day. Seems like a center-mounted oil cooler (in front of radiator) may be a better spot for the oil cooler than side-mounted like I have. I think without proper ducting, and the fact that the fender liner prevents proper flow, side-mounted seems to be tougher to make effective Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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My 34 row is mounted just to the right, in front of the radiator. Also made duct work behind the bumper to direct the air flow to the radiator/oil cooler/power steering cooler. You don't want any air bleeding off around the sides. A splitter helps with air flow too. |
Hood vents will drop those temps by about 10 deg. or so. The main issue is having the intercooler there. It's slows down and heats up the air a lot. First mount the oil cooler to the side as mentioned. Second add more ductwork all around the intercooler/radiator not let the air flow around any side. Third, in addition to the track spec vents add two more vents above the stock bumper opening on the sides of the badge; I'd say about half the radiator is exposed to the stock bumper opening, it needs more. Last add a second oil cooler if needed and a front splitter.
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This is great. I will start with ducting the coolers and positioning them better (oil cooler and Rotrex cooler moved further off to the side to get clean air). Cutting the bumper&hood will follow if ducting doesn’t help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Here is what I did.
https://imgbb.com/hMXnqjS - Upgrade oil cooler core to 40 row. It is not necessarily a direct fit as some trimming and creative mounting had to be done. - Trackspec hood vents - Trim bumper opening to allow more airflow + aftermarket bash bar - Mild ducting to force air to go through the radiator and oil cooler - Water wetter |
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Try this |
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When you cut out the parts of the bumper… did you fill in any of the gaps to make it look better? It was it a straight up hack-saw job haha Also, with my stock bash bar, I’m not sure cutting the upper grill piece would be as effective Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Ducting! |
Keeping temps down on track?
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Good find. HP Academy (same company as the people making that video) is one of my favorites. Their podcasts are super interesting for the tech nerds our there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
can you show how the greddy is plumbed?
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Didn’t realize the breather tank made such a big difference to water temps! Looks like a fairly simple and cheap upgrade for the future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
My radiator and oil cooler are separated, with ducting to both. Make sure there is space behind the cooler and radiator for the air to go. No matter how well you duct to force the air into them, if there is nowhere for the air to go, you
won't get the air flow for maximum cooling. I just moved my oil temp sensor to the sandwich adapter, so I know the temps as the oil enters the block. My temps maxed out at 190 with ambient temps around 95. I'm N/A though. |
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Max temp of 190 is super impressive regardless of being N/A! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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i think i'm going to buy this but not sure how to do the caps it looks like the instructions say you take the pressurized cap off the oem and put it on the swirl pot but the location of that cap moved throughout the years. maybe i will just email them for the proper plumbing setup. |
from gktech:
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Swirl
Pot isn’t necessary, nor is an radiator upgrade. Simple duct is all you need with a 34 row oil Cooler. Im at 500whp give or take and don’t experience any overheating. |
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I did this setup last summer on my 09. I only ran 2 events with it but I can say I noticed a difference. I was having troubles with getting bubbles in my system then overflowing and sitting in the reservoir. The ease of install and stop of this was worth the couple hundred bucks to me! I didn’t climb over stock temps because of it. The prior few I had to take cool downs frequently.
Currently I’m working on ducting - like mentioned above I don’t want to go aftermarket radiator. |
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