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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/)
-   -   Keeping temps down on track? (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/139030-keeping-temps-down-track.html)

Averying 07-24-2023 06:04 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z is 4 ZEBRA! (Post 4043434)

When you cut out the parts of the bumper… did you fill in any of the gaps to make it look better? It was it a straight up hack-saw job haha

Also, with my stock bash bar, I’m not sure cutting the upper grill piece would be as effective


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SeeThruHead 07-24-2023 08:26 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fnmc_uJv54w
Ducting!

Averying 07-24-2023 09:24 PM
Keeping temps down on track?
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeThruHead (Post 4043449)

Good find. HP Academy (same company as the people making that video) is one of my favorites. Their podcasts are super interesting for the tech nerds our there


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SeeThruHead 07-26-2023 07:32 PM
can you show how the greddy is plumbed?

Averying 07-26-2023 08:51 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by KapitalZ (Post 4043526)
The effect of progressive engine cooling modifications that I've made to my car on engine oil temperature at the track:

1. OEM (no cooling mods) = 275° (limp mode)
2. 25 Row Setrab Oil Cooler = 257°F to 275°F
3. 25 Row + Mishimoto Performance Radiator + WaterWetter = 239°F to 257°F
4. 25 Row + Mishi Rad + GReddy Radiator Breather Tank = 221°F to 239°F

I also run a grill mesh guard to keep the cooler and rad clean (see pic) and an Evor CF rad shroud.

Didn’t realize the breather tank made such a big difference to water temps! Looks like a fairly simple and cheap upgrade for the future.


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Tedmeister 07-27-2023 06:54 PM
My radiator and oil cooler are separated, with ducting to both. Make sure there is space behind the cooler and radiator for the air to go. No matter how well you duct to force the air into them, if there is nowhere for the air to go, you
won't get the air flow for maximum cooling. I just moved my oil temp sensor
to the sandwich adapter, so I know the temps as the oil enters the block.
My temps maxed out at 190 with ambient temps around 95. I'm N/A though.

Averying 07-27-2023 07:19 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedmeister (Post 4043599)
My radiator and oil cooler are separated, with ducting to both. Make sure there is space behind the cooler and radiator for the air to go. No matter how well you duct to force the air into them, if there is nowhere for the air to go, you
won't get the air flow for maximum cooling. I just moved my oil temp sensor
to the sandwich adapter, so I know the temps as the oil enters the block.
My temps maxed out at 190 with ambient temps around 95. I'm N/A though.

Max temp of 190 is super impressive regardless of being N/A!


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SeeThruHead 07-27-2023 09:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by KapitalZ (Post 4043546)
There's a good illustration of how it's plumbed on this CZP webpage: https://conceptzperformance.com/gred...908_p_8682.php

There's a bunch of extra parts required for plumbing that are not included in the standard GReddy kit but are shown on the GKTech kit webpage (where I bought the extra parts I needed separately): https://au.gktech.com/products/z34-3...wirl-pot-setup

The GKTech tank is essentially a copy of the Greddy tank. Greg Kruse at GKTech got me sorted with parts and installation advice for the GReddy tank, before his version was available. Note the GKTech kit webpage includes links to Assembly Guides.

See attached pic showing my GReddy tank attached to the firewall of my Z.

i think i'm going to buy this
but not sure how to do the caps

it looks like the instructions say you take the pressurized cap off the oem and put it on the swirl pot

but the location of that cap moved throughout the years.

maybe i will just email them for the proper plumbing setup.

SeeThruHead 07-28-2023 08:30 AM
from gktech:

Quote:
Essentially you would ignore the cap that is closest to the engine which would be a blanking cap.

So then you would put a blanking cap on the reservoir, move that pressurizes cap to the header tank, however, I don't think there would be much benefit on this setup as its already technically a swirl pot setup and you would need to run it higher then the tank, which I don't know if you will achieve, clearance wise.
So seems like there's no point

Elmo370z 07-30-2023 12:14 AM
Swirl
Pot isn’t necessary, nor is an radiator upgrade. Simple duct is all you need with a 34 row oil
Cooler. Im at 500whp give or take and don’t experience any overheating.

weebs25 12-26-2023 10:41 AM
2 Attachment(s)
I did this setup last summer on my 09. I only ran 2 events with it but I can say I noticed a difference. I was having troubles with getting bubbles in my system then overflowing and sitting in the reservoir. The ease of install and stop of this was worth the couple hundred bucks to me! I didn’t climb over stock temps because of it. The prior few I had to take cool downs frequently.
Currently I’m working on ducting - like mentioned above I don’t want to go aftermarket radiator.


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