oil and water Temp, WOW
 

So I did Atlanta Motorsport Part on Wednesday, hot hot hot, 93 with heat index of 103.

First time I have had Oil or Water Temps that were high.

Oil hit 260, I do have a 34 roll Setrab Oil Cooler current using Castrol Edge 5w40
Water hit the 13/14 red dot, yea hot -- running water and
Red Line Water Wetter
Now everything did cool off, when the 20 minute sessions were done.

Now I have reviewed the following
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...il-temp-2.html
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...l-track-3.html
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...s-hot-day.html
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...er-help-4.html
The above were great reads

Now trying to figure out what to do:
Thanks Rusty for the following:
The power steering. Only fill to the add line. Do not top it off. Then fold a shop rag up, and gum band it around the cap.
Going remove some power steering fluid and do that.

As to oil, its time to change the oil, was going to try MOTUL 0w40, but might not find locally, then will try Castrol Edge 0w40.

As to the Water Temp, not sure what to do:
1) drive slower in hot hot days
2) Replace the water pump, its still the originally and car has 70K
3) Do not track when temps are in the mid 90s. This is going to be hard, since usually pay for events ahead of time

So open to ideas/comments,

I'm using Engine Ice for coolant.

https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Ice-TY...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Engine oil. Mobil 0w40.

Thanks Rusty, I will give that a try.....
:tiphat:

Engine Ice is legal at most tracks.

I was having the same issues on 90+ degree days. What finally resolved it was a combination of multiple things:
- Upgrade oil cooler core to 40 row. It is not necessarily a direct fit as some trimming and creative mounting had to be done.
- Trackspec hood vents
- Trim bumper opening to allow more airflow.
- Mild ducting to force air to go through the radiator and oil cooler
- Water wetter

So far this has been successful for me. I have not yet tried a track day with triple digit ambient temps, but 95 degrees with hour long sessions have not been an issue. Water stays dead center and oil does spike to about 245 but no higher.

Duct your front bumper so air can only go through your heat exchangers. Air will find the path of least resistance if you let it. I used cardboard and foil tape as a basic proof of concept. I don't have coolant temp issues, but still fighting oil.

Thanks for the ideas, will probably work on the bumper first do you have any pics on what you did...

Thanks, will look at that and see what I can do with it... Time to start making changes again... :happydance:

would a front splitter help in redirecting the air flow, just thinking about what can be done...

Yes absolutely. I saw huge improvement when I did my splitter but also need a radiator air dam to get full potential. This solved my hot temps on the track and I’m with supercharger. This is what I fabricated myself.

Here you go. I removed the black upper part of the bumper that normally blocks the factory crash bar and foam.
https://i.ibb.co/4fsDQGH/PXL-20220326-145244182.jpg

Here's a pic of the 40 row setrab core. The top right AN fitting would collide with the hood latch mechanism so it needed to be mounted slightly askew to clear.

https://i.ibb.co/Qfs1nXT/PXL-20210716-224043889.jpg

I came up with a solution of making huge cuts in the top of my bumper cover (see avatar). That 100% resolved my issues but the aerodynamics (and aesthetics) are absolutely terrible.

Zebra’s aftermarket crash bar is really opening up airflow.

Elmo has been doing some great work with ducting, check out his build thread.

Hotrodz did the same thing with his front bumper.

A splitter helps too by keeping the up, instead of going under the car. Someone had posted a video on aero. Think it was Hotrodz in one of his threads.

It's funny, I am now running a Nismo bumper cover that was gifted to me from TakJack on the condition that I do not cut holes in it. Predictably, I suffered overheating issues at Summit Point last week.

Someone suggested that I remove the condenser from the radiator, so I pulled out the old angle grinder and discovered that...our condenser and radiator are actually a single unit. Oops...

Thus, my need for a new radiator...

Just remember air out flow is almost as important as in flow. I have my 40 row
cooler where the windshield washer fluid was. Direct ducting to it and exiting
into the wheel well. My radiator is tilted forward and there is a ton of room
between the back of the radiator and the block. There is direct ducting to it and hood vents for the air to leave the engine bay. Oil temps barely reach 210
at Sebring in the summer. Water temps never go above the 50% level on the light bar.

Some pics

Unfortunately, that doesn’t tell us anything about your water temps. You could be pushing 230° water and still be at the middle dot. That gauge is a dummy gauge. It only goes full when you exceed 240°. You probably need to get a proper water tempt gauge.

Thanks all for all contribution and pictures.... time to put the thinking hat on to get me through the year and then the plan for mods this winter....

:tiphat::driving:

well the engine ice and the change to 0w40 Mobil 1, made a difference...
Water temperature was in the middle of the gauge.
Oil temperature hit 255 at one point, but it was the last session of the day, a 40 minute session, this was like 40 minutes after the last session and it was a 40 minute session.

But planning on a splitter and vent hood for next year...

If you have a ECUtek tune you can run your actual coolant/oil temp etc live on your phone. I have a standalone burner phone on my center console for that.

Love to see someone else trying 4 inch vent ducts to feed the stock airboxes

I can swear by this mod.

You should look into 3.7 Q50 ones, they're bigger however might take a custom front to fit your car.

Nope do not have that, but thanks for the info, will be something to consider

Dealing with similar temps in TX. Everything was a just a patch until I vented the hood. Night and day difference for me.

I also added a power steering cooler and I can 2nd fill line limit on the reservoir, mine self bled to the sweet spot on track once...

Random thought that came from deleting the heater pipes on my swap.

Though not thoroughly tested yet, I learned that the heater ALWAYS sees flow and realistically sending hot coolant back into the bottom of the block.

Any track dedicated members saw an improvement after heater deletes?

I think by running some airflow through the heater or installing a heater flow valve could help stabilize temps once things start getting heat soaked.

I don't feel bad now that mine hit 8/9 dots after 15-20 minutes on track in high heat/humidity. My oil temps can get to 260, but I'm running 5W50. I'd rather run a little higher temp and keep oil pressure up, rather than run thinner oil to try to keep temps lower. Unless you can keep your oil temp at 210 all the time, 0W40 is awfully thin on track at 250 deg, not to mention oil pressure suffers.

I just finished building my Nismo "clubsport" with all the cooling mods, but will try to add some side shields to direct airflow into the coolers/radiators more efficiently. Also adding the new Z1 undertray that has some cooling fins to help relieve pressure, which can't hurt either.

My biggest complaint isn't oil/coolant temps, it's the crappy ABS....lol

Do you have a water temp gauge?
Did you install hood vents?
Do you have a splitter on the front?
Did you make ducting inside the bumper? From the opening to the radiator?

Z1 just released a new undertray for 9-14 Nismo cars, that has a nice air inlet in the front, and air relief fins under the oil pan, which should help to move more air on the oil pan and help move air coming through the radiator. I just bought one, plus, this one will work with the CJM oil pan, as the service door is the whole section, so works with the drain plug on the opposite side! ;)

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rm=ProductLink

That won't do much of anything. You will need more cooling as you were told above. You will need a brake upgrades and cooling upgrades before even worrying about ICE mode and an ABS module upgrade.

I beg to diff. It most certainly will encourage more airflow. I already have everything there is to do with brake upgrades/cooling, plus some. 72-vane Paragon 2-piece floating discs, custom ducting, etc. etc. I even have GT3 brake ducts custom mounted to my control arms. My brakes don't have any issues with heat.

Stoptech doesn't offer their 2-piece setup anymore, but Paragon does, and it's a true floating setup, and they offer 48 or 72 vane setups. Real race grade discs and hardware, not tuner crap. Bolts right up to sport brakes.
My car literally has all the typical things to make it a track weapon, except decent OE ABS, lol.

All engine/tranny/subframe mounts
Ohlins suspension - custom valved by PSI
SPL control arms and monoballs all over
Swaybars
Oil cooler
PS cooler
Diff cooler - OS Giken LSD
3.92 R&P
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch and LW Flywheel kit
HFC's with Ecutek tune
AA shorty resonated exhaust
etc. etc. etc.

Good luck with that. Trackspec vents and ducting is money well spent. Stock brakes still have aluminum pistons in the calipers. You need to upgrade those also to AP racing stuff while you are at it. Don't waste your money just upgrading rotors. It's not worth it if you are serious about tracking. If your just playing around, you can get by. Do you have a fuel starvation solution?

Word to the wise.. Spool is one of the OGs and has one of the most ridiculous functional builds on here.

Word#2, you need to vent the hood. There is no other way to dump all the heat.

You need to vent to hood. No other way around it.

There are countless threads here about airflow and headlt reduction. The common theme is that heat needs to get out of the bay. Only way to do that is hood venting.

Appreciate the info. Yeah, mostly just playing around. I have AP Racing Pro5000R brakes on some of my other cars, so I get it. We used to use Racing Brakes Stainless steel pistons in our 987 race cars OE calipers with great results. Will see if they are willing to make some pistons for the sport brakes. If not, might do some AP stuff but for now car stops just fine.

This was the “first round” of upgrades and seeing how the car is on track to identify the weak spots. I track/race all my other cars too, so the Z doesn’t see tons of track time but I still want it prepared as good as it can.

But cutting holes in the hood just isn’t going to happen so I’ll just deal with it and do everything else. Oil temps aren’t really an issue on this car, 250-260 is fine with a high quality oil and thicker viscosity, with frequent changes. My brakes don’t have any issues for the tires I’m running. Coolant temps stay on 7 almost always, unless I stay out long in crazy heat, so that also easy to manage for the time being. But you know how it goes, we always are tinkering and wanting more! Lol. I’m

The ABS is the current limiting factor as I’m not going to run anything stickier than 200TW tires until I get a fix. Bosch Motorsport just got back to me about the ABS discussion so hoping to have some good news about that.

I'm running RacingBrake rotors, Ti heat shields, 3" cooling duct hose, 10/8 Carbotech brake pads. The heat generated with fry the dust seals in the calipers, Turn the powder coat a different color. And brake fluid will leak out of the bleeder screws. Have Mich Cup tires, 80TW. No ice mode yet.

Did you do the YAW sensor mod?

Did you do anything for the fuel starve on right hand turns?

Some CF hoods that are painted (with vents left exposed CF) look pretty clean, more so than the trackspec vents. Although I like the motorsports look with the track spec vents installed. I’ll be nervous to take a saw to the hood one day tho lol


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Or one can always buy a spare hood.

CF hoods are hot and miss for fitment. Ask me how I know.

Cutting the hood isn't too difficult, we all did Ghostvette's vents half-drunk in about 2 hours