oil and water Temp, WOW
 

So I did Atlanta Motorsport Part on Wednesday, hot hot hot, 93 with heat index of 103.

First time I have had Oil or Water Temps that were high.

Oil hit 260, I do have a 34 roll Setrab Oil Cooler current using Castrol Edge 5w40
Water hit the 13/14 red dot, yea hot -- running water and
Red Line Water Wetter
Now everything did cool off, when the 20 minute sessions were done.

Now I have reviewed the following
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...il-temp-2.html
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...l-track-3.html
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...s-hot-day.html
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...er-help-4.html
The above were great reads

Now trying to figure out what to do:
Thanks Rusty for the following:
The power steering. Only fill to the add line. Do not top it off. Then fold a shop rag up, and gum band it around the cap.
Going remove some power steering fluid and do that.

As to oil, its time to change the oil, was going to try MOTUL 0w40, but might not find locally, then will try Castrol Edge 0w40.

As to the Water Temp, not sure what to do:
1) drive slower in hot hot days
2) Replace the water pump, its still the originally and car has 70K
3) Do not track when temps are in the mid 90s. This is going to be hard, since usually pay for events ahead of time

So open to ideas/comments,

I'm using Engine Ice for coolant.

https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Ice-TY...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Engine oil. Mobil 0w40.

Thanks Rusty, I will give that a try.....
:tiphat:

Engine Ice is legal at most tracks.

I was having the same issues on 90+ degree days. What finally resolved it was a combination of multiple things:
- Upgrade oil cooler core to 40 row. It is not necessarily a direct fit as some trimming and creative mounting had to be done.
- Trackspec hood vents
- Trim bumper opening to allow more airflow.
- Mild ducting to force air to go through the radiator and oil cooler
- Water wetter

So far this has been successful for me. I have not yet tried a track day with triple digit ambient temps, but 95 degrees with hour long sessions have not been an issue. Water stays dead center and oil does spike to about 245 but no higher.

Duct your front bumper so air can only go through your heat exchangers. Air will find the path of least resistance if you let it. I used cardboard and foil tape as a basic proof of concept. I don't have coolant temp issues, but still fighting oil.

Thanks for the ideas, will probably work on the bumper first do you have any pics on what you did...

Thanks, will look at that and see what I can do with it... Time to start making changes again... :happydance:

would a front splitter help in redirecting the air flow, just thinking about what can be done...

Yes absolutely. I saw huge improvement when I did my splitter but also need a radiator air dam to get full potential. This solved my hot temps on the track and I’m with supercharger. This is what I fabricated myself.

Here you go. I removed the black upper part of the bumper that normally blocks the factory crash bar and foam.
https://i.ibb.co/4fsDQGH/PXL-20220326-145244182.jpg

Here's a pic of the 40 row setrab core. The top right AN fitting would collide with the hood latch mechanism so it needed to be mounted slightly askew to clear.

https://i.ibb.co/Qfs1nXT/PXL-20210716-224043889.jpg

I came up with a solution of making huge cuts in the top of my bumper cover (see avatar). That 100% resolved my issues but the aerodynamics (and aesthetics) are absolutely terrible.

Zebra’s aftermarket crash bar is really opening up airflow.

Elmo has been doing some great work with ducting, check out his build thread.

Hotrodz did the same thing with his front bumper.

A splitter helps too by keeping the up, instead of going under the car. Someone had posted a video on aero. Think it was Hotrodz in one of his threads.

It's funny, I am now running a Nismo bumper cover that was gifted to me from TakJack on the condition that I do not cut holes in it. Predictably, I suffered overheating issues at Summit Point last week.

Someone suggested that I remove the condenser from the radiator, so I pulled out the old angle grinder and discovered that...our condenser and radiator are actually a single unit. Oops...

Thus, my need for a new radiator...