oil and water Temp, WOW

danegrey

well the engine ice and the change to 0w40 Mobil 1, made a difference...
Water temperature was in the middle of the gauge.
Oil temperature hit 255 at one point, but it was the last session of the day, a 40 minute session, this was like 40 minutes after the last session and it was a 40 minute session.

But planning on a splitter and vent hood for next year...

__________________
Lots of Changes
the Z needs to be driven and driven hard for the car lives for it

BettyZ

If you have a ECUtek tune you can run your actual coolant/oil temp etc live on your phone. I have a standalone burner phone on my center console for that.

__________________
'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods

danegrey

Nope do not have that, but thanks for the info, will be something to consider

__________________
Lots of Changes
the Z needs to be driven and driven hard for the car lives for it

Jmatchley86

Dealing with similar temps in TX. Everything was a just a patch until I vented the hood. Night and day difference for me.

I also added a power steering cooler and I can 2nd fill line limit on the reservoir, mine self bled to the sweet spot on track once...

THE BULL

Random thought that came from deleting the heater pipes on my swap.

Though not thoroughly tested yet, I learned that the heater ALWAYS sees flow and realistically sending hot coolant back into the bottom of the block.

Any track dedicated members saw an improvement after heater deletes?

I think by running some airflow through the heater or installing a heater flow valve could help stabilize temps once things start getting heat soaked.

prandelia

I don't feel bad now that mine hit 8/9 dots after 15-20 minutes on track in high heat/humidity. My oil temps can get to 260, but I'm running 5W50. I'd rather run a little higher temp and keep oil pressure up, rather than run thinner oil to try to keep temps lower. Unless you can keep your oil temp at 210 all the time, 0W40 is awfully thin on track at 250 deg, not to mention oil pressure suffers.

I just finished building my Nismo "clubsport" with all the cooling mods, but will try to add some side shields to direct airflow into the coolers/radiators more efficiently. Also adding the new Z1 undertray that has some cooling fins to help relieve pressure, which can't hurt either.

My biggest complaint isn't oil/coolant temps, it's the crappy ABS....lol

Rusty

Do you have a water temp gauge?
Did you install hood vents?
Do you have a splitter on the front?
Did you make ducting inside the bumper? From the opening to the radiator?

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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prandelia

• No, I can check temps through my Ecutek tune apparently tho, so no need. Just got the tune, haven't had a chance to data log yet tho.
• No, my car is honestly such a clean, low mileage, I'm not going to hack the hood.
• No, no plans
• I plan to do this. This works. Made a significant improvement on my FRS race car. I recently just finished my build and this was my initial track testing results. Oil temps will benefit from this as well, but I'm seeing 260 tops, which doesn't bother me. I've got a CJM oil pan with 5W50 so my oil pressure is great.

prandelia

Z1 just released a new undertray for 9-14 Nismo cars, that has a nice air inlet in the front, and air relief fins under the oil pan, which should help to move more air on the oil pan and help move air coming through the radiator. I just bought one, plus, this one will work with the CJM oil pan, as the service door is the whole section, so works with the drain plug on the opposite side!

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rm=ProductLink

Spooler

That won't do much of anything. You will need more cooling as you were told above. You will need a brake upgrades and cooling upgrades before even worrying about ICE mode and an ABS module upgrade.

prandelia

I beg to diff. It most certainly will encourage more airflow. I already have everything there is to do with brake upgrades/cooling, plus some. 72-vane Paragon 2-piece floating discs, custom ducting, etc. etc. I even have GT3 brake ducts custom mounted to my control arms. My brakes don't have any issues with heat.

Stoptech doesn't offer their 2-piece setup anymore, but Paragon does, and it's a true floating setup, and they offer 48 or 72 vane setups. Real race grade discs and hardware, not tuner crap. Bolts right up to sport brakes.
My car literally has all the typical things to make it a track weapon, except decent OE ABS, lol.

All engine/tranny/subframe mounts
Ohlins suspension - custom valved by PSI
SPL control arms and monoballs all over
Swaybars
Oil cooler
PS cooler
Diff cooler - OS Giken LSD
3.92 R&P
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch and LW Flywheel kit
HFC's with Ecutek tune
AA shorty resonated exhaust
etc. etc. etc.

Spooler

Good luck with that. Trackspec vents and ducting is money well spent. Stock brakes still have aluminum pistons in the calipers. You need to upgrade those also to AP racing stuff while you are at it. Don't waste your money just upgrading rotors. It's not worth it if you are serious about tracking. If your just playing around, you can get by. Do you have a fuel starvation solution?

prandelia

Appreciate the info. Yeah, mostly just playing around. I have AP Racing Pro5000R brakes on some of my other cars, so I get it. We used to use Racing Brakes Stainless steel pistons in our 987 race cars OE calipers with great results. Will see if they are willing to make some pistons for the sport brakes. If not, might do some AP stuff but for now car stops just fine.

This was the “first round” of upgrades and seeing how the car is on track to identify the weak spots. I track/race all my other cars too, so the Z doesn’t see tons of track time but I still want it prepared as good as it can.

But cutting holes in the hood just isn’t going to happen so I’ll just deal with it and do everything else. Oil temps aren’t really an issue on this car, 250-260 is fine with a high quality oil and thicker viscosity, with frequent changes. My brakes don’t have any issues for the tires I’m running. Coolant temps stay on 7 almost always, unless I stay out long in crazy heat, so that also easy to manage for the time being. But you know how it goes, we always are tinkering and wanting more! Lol. I’m

The ABS is the current limiting factor as I’m not going to run anything stickier than 200TW tires until I get a fix. Bosch Motorsport just got back to me about the ABS discussion so hoping to have some good news about that.

__________________
2014-Nismo 370Z / 2025-992 GT3RS / 2024-C8 Z07 / 2018-991.2 GT3 / 2011-997.2 GT3RS / 2016-981 GT4 / 2013-E92 M3 / 1988-E30 M3 / 2015-FRS - GLTC race car

BettyZ

Word to the wise.. Spool is one of the OGs and has one of the most ridiculous functional builds on here.

Word#2, you need to vent the hood. There is no other way to dump all the heat.

__________________
'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
Betty Mods

Rusty

You need to vent to hood. No other way around it.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html