Just remember air out flow is almost as important as in flow. I have my 40 row
cooler where the windshield washer fluid was. Direct ducting to it and exiting
into the wheel well. My radiator is tilted forward and there is a ton of room
between the back of the radiator and the block. There is direct ducting to it and hood vents for the air to leave the engine bay. Oil temps barely reach 210
at Sebring in the summer. Water temps never go above the 50% level on the light bar.

Some pics

Unfortunately, that doesn’t tell us anything about your water temps. You could be pushing 230° water and still be at the middle dot. That gauge is a dummy gauge. It only goes full when you exceed 240°. You probably need to get a proper water tempt gauge.

Thanks all for all contribution and pictures.... time to put the thinking hat on to get me through the year and then the plan for mods this winter....

:tiphat::driving:

well the engine ice and the change to 0w40 Mobil 1, made a difference...
Water temperature was in the middle of the gauge.
Oil temperature hit 255 at one point, but it was the last session of the day, a 40 minute session, this was like 40 minutes after the last session and it was a 40 minute session.

But planning on a splitter and vent hood for next year...

If you have a ECUtek tune you can run your actual coolant/oil temp etc live on your phone. I have a standalone burner phone on my center console for that.

Love to see someone else trying 4 inch vent ducts to feed the stock airboxes

I can swear by this mod.

You should look into 3.7 Q50 ones, they're bigger however might take a custom front to fit your car.

Nope do not have that, but thanks for the info, will be something to consider

Dealing with similar temps in TX. Everything was a just a patch until I vented the hood. Night and day difference for me.

I also added a power steering cooler and I can 2nd fill line limit on the reservoir, mine self bled to the sweet spot on track once...

Random thought that came from deleting the heater pipes on my swap.

Though not thoroughly tested yet, I learned that the heater ALWAYS sees flow and realistically sending hot coolant back into the bottom of the block.

Any track dedicated members saw an improvement after heater deletes?

I think by running some airflow through the heater or installing a heater flow valve could help stabilize temps once things start getting heat soaked.

I don't feel bad now that mine hit 8/9 dots after 15-20 minutes on track in high heat/humidity. My oil temps can get to 260, but I'm running 5W50. I'd rather run a little higher temp and keep oil pressure up, rather than run thinner oil to try to keep temps lower. Unless you can keep your oil temp at 210 all the time, 0W40 is awfully thin on track at 250 deg, not to mention oil pressure suffers.

I just finished building my Nismo "clubsport" with all the cooling mods, but will try to add some side shields to direct airflow into the coolers/radiators more efficiently. Also adding the new Z1 undertray that has some cooling fins to help relieve pressure, which can't hurt either.

My biggest complaint isn't oil/coolant temps, it's the crappy ABS....lol

Do you have a water temp gauge?
Did you install hood vents?
Do you have a splitter on the front?
Did you make ducting inside the bumper? From the opening to the radiator?

Z1 just released a new undertray for 9-14 Nismo cars, that has a nice air inlet in the front, and air relief fins under the oil pan, which should help to move more air on the oil pan and help move air coming through the radiator. I just bought one, plus, this one will work with the CJM oil pan, as the service door is the whole section, so works with the drain plug on the opposite side! ;)

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rm=ProductLink

That won't do much of anything. You will need more cooling as you were told above. You will need a brake upgrades and cooling upgrades before even worrying about ICE mode and an ABS module upgrade.