Axles, how likely am I to break them?
 

I am stepping up (down?) to a 15" setup in search of a better 60ft since all we have is a 1/8th strip and that is where I personally need to make up some time. The track surface isn't the greatest but the first 100ft is decent when prepped.

On ethanol I'm in the 700-800whp/600-650wtq range by my best estimations. No functioning dyno here yet and street pulls for virtual dyno are out of the question since the last time I lost traction around 4500rpm in 4th gear, I do not have brown enough pant's to attempt that again.

At what point do the cv joint's/axle give up?

With those tires, you will need axles for sure. You will need the 1400whp axles. Not the 1200whp axles. They are not cheap either. $3200 to $3500 or so. Make sure you have a diff brace too.
If you don't and break the diff cover it will get expensive quick. It will break the driveshaft and may fubar the tailshaft of your transmission.

You might want to look at upgrading your driveshaft also.

I have the Z1 cover currently and I was looking into doing the Pathfinder diff cover since it has 2 mounting points and I get to weld.

$3500 for axles is not happening. If that is what needs to be done then I just won't race it anymore.

MA-Motorsports has done the 300zx diff cover with two mounting points. At least do the Bell diff brace and modify it. The 1200whp axles are around $2500 or so. It get's expensive quick on the drag strip. We haven't even talked about the transmission. Input shaft and 3rd gear is a problem.

That's why you don't see me at the drag strip. Pour money in the front while parts come flying out the back. No thanks.

It’s all we have here so it’s kinda the only place I have to fully appreciate the landmissle. I’m on a 75sq mile rock with a max speed limit of 50mph, no circuit track and until recently no drag strip.

I’m not trying to be cheap but there’s a time when it’s smarter to draw a line in the sand than reach the water not knowing how to swim.

I’ve raised the car up and brought it to the alignment shop with 400lbs of **** in the trunk to get it to full squat to get as close to 0 camber with everything loaded up and reduce the camber gain when launching.

If I can crack a 1.5 60ft without grenading the CV’s I will be just fine with that. I’ve seen what happens when you have a very good clutch time diff and one axle breaks mid track. 99% of the time you’ll break them at the starting line but I’m not about to put my car in a wall because all the power goes to one wheel in a hurry. At launch a driver with enough mechanical empathy and a decent hand brake can preload the suspension to reduce the shock (dunno if I fit that description ��)

I mean this in the most respectful way possible but everyone in this thread so far is just speculating, educated speculation but speculation none the less.

If I find out the hard way I will update with my findings

It's not speculation. I have seen them all break as I have stated above. So why did you even ask if you don't want to believe what I have told you. It get's ugly quick.

I've launched my 370Z Nismo with nothing breaking at 600WTQ, all you need is soft tires, preload the drivetrain, and a good diff cover (Stock w/ bushings) or Gktech with dual studs

Swapping to the Z1 Diff Cover, it broke as soon as I launched it on the street, broke my driveshaft, dented my exhaust, and dented my whole subframe. **** companies with shitty products.

With all due respect, no one should comment unless they've actually been to a drag strip while boosted...

You’ve gone through the ringer with your experiences that’s for sure and you’ve been forthcoming and sharing with your successes and “failures” so understand I appreciate your input.

The axles you’ve seen break, are you at liberty to share power level and tire setup?

He broke them on his 15in tire setup. He broke several of them. He even broke the 1200whp ones.

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...t-build-8.html

Nathan that goes to SOHO broke his SOHO diff cover, driveshaft, and trashed the tail shaft of his transmission. He did have the DSS 1400whp axles.

LOL, I don't have to do it. I can sit back and watch the carnage with my Popcorn.

You can break a diff cover on the street NA. SS_Firehawk did.

As far as input shafts. Well that list is getting long. Let's see. Mr. Squeeze did it on the streets. SOHO, a 900+whp car that MA-Motorsports built broke 2 input shafts, and a couple of more that I don't remember the details of. I am not sure how many transmission SOHO has broken trying to get them to live at the drag strip. Input shaft, 3rd gears out the wazo, and first gear.

If you really want to run at the drag strip, I would go straight to a slipper clutch that you can tune with weights on the pressure plate. I am not sure of anyone who makes one. Z-Speed may be able to do it. That is what all the fast stick shift cars run on the drag strip.

The drag strip is not my thang. I do enjoy watching it though and keep up with what is going on.

:rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2:: rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::r ofl2::rofl2:

Yeah I remember seeing a few of these ******** the bed with people at or near your tier of power. Funny how popular this transmission is for swaps but no one seems to be developing parts for it.

I'm not trying to get THAT competitive in regards to the slipper clutch etc. I will run the Magnus slipper on the OS Giken twin plate I have. I guess I should have asked my question in a different way. I am not interested in investing another 10k in drive train parts, I have enough engine to break ****, I want to stay under the threshold and enjoy the car at that level.

Appreciate the links/examples so far I missed a few of those in my searching

It's all good. Justin ran a 9.96 on stock everything. If you are careful with the launch and don't shock the drive train you may be able to get away with it for a while. My clutch is totally different than everyone else runs. That may be the reason my trans has lasted as long as it has. I even have the stock driveshaft.

Marky that lives about an hour north from me broke the input shaft on the street. He has a FI twin turbo stage 2. Making about 600 ft lbs. Said he was in 5th. Romped down on the loud pedal at about 2000 rpm. Got to about 6000 rpm. Hit a bump and the rear tires caught some air time. When the tires came back down a got traction. It snapped the input shaft. He also has twisted the input shaft on the 2nd tranny.

At least you know what your up against and not flying blind so if something happens it won't be a surprised.

I forgot to mention. Do not flat foot shift. It will kill the trans. 3rd gear mostly and the input shaft. Shewantsthezeee guy has killed several trans doing that. That is also how Mr. Squeeze broke his input shaft.

He's such a moron

https://www.dropbox.com/s/04u42p2ilz...20PM.png?raw=1

The real carnage has yet to begin. Once his new motor and turbo are done the real fun for him will start. Let's see if he can survive it without going broke.

Just accept what you have. You’re not ready and willing to do what’s necessary or just buy a mustang, corvette, camaro, Honda of sort. Takes about half the amount of money to run fast 1320 times and way more aftermarket knowledge on what works

I don’t want peace! I want problems! Always!

I am not trying to have my cake and eat it too. I just want to get an idea of where I need to set my limits.

Stock long block is good for x, it costs way to ******* much to make another 200whp and it takes a magnitude more to make anything over that reliably. We have the conversation about engines all the time and it’s fairly common knowledge at this point. I am just trying to figure out that situation axle wise.

I have ALWAYS been a Nissan guy since I had a GTi-R 18 years ago, Nissan has its faults but at this point it’s a shitty marriage and I will not go anywhere else. I stick to the evil I know.

Don’t want you guys to think I am expecting to be spoon fed either, just not a lot of Zs drag racing much less the owners sharing negative results. Without saying, one mans google-fu is not good enough so let’s pool the information together.

“If you wanna run 9s yours gonna break xyz so stay in this lane unless you have the cupcakezxpress (never leave home without it) to race at that level”. I think we have achieved that so far

I have shared with you what I know will break. At what point, I can't say. Folks have broken stuff all across the board. Now you know what breaks. That's the best I can do.

I would say it comes down to how committed you are, theoretically you could do a rear end conversion and swap out the trans with something that can take the abuse, but you'd be talking huge money, but the benefit is you wouldn't be breaking ****.

Thank you for sharing, I definitely value the input and data and discussion.

As far as being committed that is what I am trying to responsibly gauge. I have no shame in saying Certain things are above my pay grade as it were.

At the end of the day I’m going to go out there on 28x10.5 bias ply slicks and skinnies up front and give it hell. If it survives I’ll let you know, if I leave a trail of parts, I will also let you know.

You should have seen the trail of broken parts I left when I had the 572ci big block Mopar stuffed in a Dart Sport.

Go practice. We don't want to see you leave a trail of parts. I have done that and it sucks. Don't go after it right out the gate. Work up to it.

Coming off the line. You don't want to side step the clutch pedal. It breaks parts. That's where you slide your foot to the side of the pedal. Learn to pull your leg straight back. With this method. You can control the shock to the drivetrain.

I have some seat time, I was previously running some 17x9.5 forgestars and 28x10 bias ply slicks but that was a stock long block and stock GTR turbo setup on E98 so around 600whp. Previous best was 1.68 60ft, I have some suspension work to do as well but I think I can get 2/10ths off that.

I'm waiting on some fittings to get this installed, seen it works wonders for launch consistency and reducing shock load on a few high powered Evo's here.
https://www.magnusmotorsports.com/pr...ontrol-device/

Bigger turbos would help ramp in the power, those tiny turbos make life difficult.