Fyi

Tedmeister · 07-12-2021, 04:58 PM

Went to the track yesterday and noticed smoke behind me near the end of
my first session. Pulled off track right away and popped the hood.
Noticed oil near the base of the block and was towed back to my trailer.
When I took a close look I saw the aftermarket oil pressure sensor was sitting
askew. I assume that the mass of the sensor is too much for the brass fitting.
I wonder if anyone else has had a similar failure? Spent $ 16.00 for the fitting
through Z1. I found a steel one at DriftMotion.com for $ 2.99. Luckily I only
lost about half a quart of oil and never lost pressure.
Of course it ended my day, didn't want to track the car, without knowing if I had oil pressure, by just installing the factory sensor back in its original place.

Tedmeister · 07-12-2021, 05:25 PM

pic

Rusty · 07-12-2021, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tedmeister

pic

That's just pot metal brass. Mine is machined block of steel.

You got lucky to catch when you did. You could have lost a motor, or oiled up the rear tires and spun yourself and others off track.

johnxxx · 07-21-2021, 08:40 AM

@Tedmeister... looks like your oil pressure sensor is rated for only up to 100 psi from what I see etched on it... I'm looking at Rusty's posts from several years back whereas he would go beyond 100 under various loads.

Observed Oil Pressure with a gauge

BettyZ · 07-21-2021, 08:59 AM

Yes, you need a 150 psi sensor. and machined steel adapter.

Evildky · 07-24-2021, 05:11 PM

That looks like a plumbing fitting, as house plumbing. 1/4MPT is common for icemakers, filters etc, but the block side would need to be metric.

Tedmeister · 07-24-2021, 08:16 PM

My steel fitting finally arrived from drift motion and I will install tomorrow.
I contacted Z1 one and told them about my failure, and of course I'm the
first one that happened to, that they know of.
Looking at the pressure sensor and the fitting now it sure looks like a disaster
waiting to happen.

THE BULL · 07-26-2021, 03:44 PM

I re-threaded a mines for NPT and stuck a GM style 3 pin pressure sensor in there. Once you have actual pressures the oil light is useless, wire it so it doesn't throw a light and relay on the actual pressures.

No matter what those type of senders shouldn't be used in that location due to size of the unit, plenty of units that use the type of sensor I used.

Tedmeister · 07-31-2021, 11:36 AM

so the part from driftmotion was npt threaded in all three locations, found a stainless steel one on Amazon that is threaded correctly. I still had leak
where it connects to the block, using pipe thread sealer, since I did not want to
over tighten. tried again with teflon tape but in order to get the outlet location
for the after market sensor in the right place I ended up stripping the threads
in the block. If I use fix a thread and some of the shavings from threading for the sleeve and then punching the small metal piece at the end of the sleeve,
will that metal end up in the pan and/or filter, or is the location of the pressure sensor on the other side of the filter and thus all that metal will end up damaging the motor?

Tedmeister · 07-31-2021, 11:59 AM

Also, will the fix a thread seal, or do I have to go significantly bigger and then
use an adapter that has an internal 1/8 bsp thread. The pipe thread sealant is rated to 140 degrees, so is good old teflon tape the best thing to use?

Tedmeister · 08-01-2021, 10:49 AM

In getting everything ready to drill and tap the port, I finally was able to
get a good view at the port from above and saw that the port is actually
cracked. When I had my original failure at the track I tried to finish my track day by just putting the factory sensor back in and doing without the aftermarket gauge. The factory sensor leaked when I tested it, so I just
packed up the car. The impact of hitting a curb must have not only cracked the brass connector, but also cracked the port itself.
Now the fun begins to replace the upper oil pan. I can't believe Z1 sold me this setup. The Autometer sensor seems larger than some of the others I have seen guys use on this forum.

THE BULL · 08-02-2021, 12:17 PM

These types of sensor do suck especially since a smaller 3 pin sensor with the right gauge works just fine.

The issue is the BSP thread requires an adapter which puts even more strain on the hole.

I knew this prior to installing my gauge and since I did not want to use an adapter nor needed the OEM sensor now that I had a full sweeping gauge I took the cringy approach to rethread from BSP to NPT.

Standard tapping and rethreading with grease to help pick up the shavings, lastly I disconnected the ignition and cranked it a couple of times so that oil pressure would clean the rest of the threads.

Worked wonderfully, no issues.

Tedmeister · 08-03-2021, 05:22 AM

I'll tap into the oil cooler line with an adapter. I would be too scared to introduce metal into the block by tapping the factory sensor location.
Too bad there aren't any other ports in the block.

BettyZ · 08-03-2021, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tedmeister

I'll tap into the oil cooler line with an adapter. I would be too scared to introduce metal into the block by tapping the factory sensor location.
Too bad there aren't any other ports in the block.

I'm looking at running a tap into the thermostatic oil plate. For my turbo oil feed line. The janky nature of having a tee running off the oil pressure switch, attached to another tee for aftermarket oil pressure sensor and oil feed filter, and then the fitting for the feed line, is worrisome.

Tedmeister · 08-29-2021, 09:01 PM

Finally got everything back together. It was a big pain in the rear to get
the upper oil pan out and the replacement one in. I ended up lifting the engine
high enough to pull it out over the suspension. Spent the money on AEM temp and pressure sensor and gauges. Installed the pressure sensor, which is a lot
smaller than the Autometer sensor, with an AN adapter to the oil cooler.
So now I have very precise temp and pressure readings.
I drove the car around the neighborhood and had a hard time getting the temps
up to good operating temp. Pressure was as high as 120 psi with the temp slowly creeping up. Had to keep revs above 3000 to keep heating the oil.
My concern is that at the track the highest temps I saw was 210 in the oil pan.
From there the oil goes through the cooler before being pumped through the engine. Does that mean the oil is only 180 to 190 as it enters the engine?
That is just into the minimum temp for elevating the revs above the low range.
I do not have a thermostatic adapter, I figured for a track only car in Florida, that there would never be a time when not want to have my oil cooled.
Is the heating process putting too much stress on seals, and do I need to get
a thermostatic adapter?

07-12-2021, 04:58 PM	#1 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6776	Fyi Went to the track yesterday and noticed smoke behind me near the end of my first session. Pulled off track right away and popped the hood. Noticed oil near the base of the block and was towed back to my trailer. When I took a close look I saw the aftermarket oil pressure sensor was sitting askew. I assume that the mass of the sensor is too much for the brass fitting. I wonder if anyone else has had a similar failure? Spent $ 16.00 for the fitting through Z1. I found a steel one at DriftMotion.com for $ 2.99. Luckily I only lost about half a quart of oil and never lost pressure. Of course it ended my day, didn't want to track the car, without knowing if I had oil pressure, by just installing the factory sensor back in its original place. JARblue, cv129, danegrey and 3 others like this.

07-21-2021, 08:40 AM	#4 (permalink)
johnxxx Track Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: NJ Age: 64 Posts: 990 Drives: 2014 370Z PW Nismo Rep Power: 2684366	@Tedmeister... looks like your oil pressure sensor is rated for only up to 100 psi from what I see etched on it... I'm looking at Rusty's posts from several years back whereas he would go beyond 100 under various loads. Observed Oil Pressure with a gauge cv129, Rusty, Hotrodz and 1 others like this. __________________ FI TT Kit #099 making 794whp/713# torque@23psi

07-21-2021, 08:59 AM	#5 (permalink)
BettyZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Chicagoland Age: 37 Posts: 5,261 Drives: A Garage Queen Rep Power: 2684371	Yes, you need a 150 psi sensor. and machined steel adapter. JARblue, cv129, Rusty and 3 others like this. __________________ '14 MB Nismo \| Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs. Betty Mods

07-24-2021, 05:11 PM	#6 (permalink)
Evildky Base Member Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 89 Drives: 13 Nismo STU/T3 Rep Power: 10187	That looks like a plumbing fitting, as house plumbing. 1/4MPT is common for icemakers, filters etc, but the block side would need to be metric. Rusty and Hotrodz like this.

07-24-2021, 08:16 PM	#7 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6776	My steel fitting finally arrived from drift motion and I will install tomorrow. I contacted Z1 one and told them about my failure, and of course I'm the first one that happened to, that they know of. Looking at the pressure sensor and the fitting now it sure looks like a disaster waiting to happen. Rusty, madwi, johnxxx and 1 others like this.

07-26-2021, 03:44 PM	#8 (permalink)
THE BULL Base Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Florida Posts: 217 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 26848	I re-threaded a mines for NPT and stuck a GM style 3 pin pressure sensor in there. Once you have actual pressures the oil light is useless, wire it so it doesn't throw a light and relay on the actual pressures. No matter what those type of senders shouldn't be used in that location due to size of the unit, plenty of units that use the type of sensor I used. Tedmeister likes this.

07-31-2021, 11:36 AM	#9 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6776	so the part from driftmotion was npt threaded in all three locations, found a stainless steel one on Amazon that is threaded correctly. I still had leak where it connects to the block, using pipe thread sealer, since I did not want to over tighten. tried again with teflon tape but in order to get the outlet location for the after market sensor in the right place I ended up stripping the threads in the block. If I use fix a thread and some of the shavings from threading for the sleeve and then punching the small metal piece at the end of the sleeve, will that metal end up in the pan and/or filter, or is the location of the pressure sensor on the other side of the filter and thus all that metal will end up damaging the motor?

07-31-2021, 11:59 AM	#10 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6776	Also, will the fix a thread seal, or do I have to go significantly bigger and then use an adapter that has an internal 1/8 bsp thread. The pipe thread sealant is rated to 140 degrees, so is good old teflon tape the best thing to use?

08-01-2021, 10:49 AM	#11 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6776	In getting everything ready to drill and tap the port, I finally was able to get a good view at the port from above and saw that the port is actually cracked. When I had my original failure at the track I tried to finish my track day by just putting the factory sensor back in and doing without the aftermarket gauge. The factory sensor leaked when I tested it, so I just packed up the car. The impact of hitting a curb must have not only cracked the brass connector, but also cracked the port itself. Now the fun begins to replace the upper oil pan. I can't believe Z1 sold me this setup. The Autometer sensor seems larger than some of the others I have seen guys use on this forum. BettyZ likes this.

08-02-2021, 12:17 PM	#12 (permalink)
THE BULL Base Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Florida Posts: 217 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 26848	These types of sensor do suck especially since a smaller 3 pin sensor with the right gauge works just fine. The issue is the BSP thread requires an adapter which puts even more strain on the hole. I knew this prior to installing my gauge and since I did not want to use an adapter nor needed the OEM sensor now that I had a full sweeping gauge I took the cringy approach to rethread from BSP to NPT. Standard tapping and rethreading with grease to help pick up the shavings, lastly I disconnected the ignition and cranked it a couple of times so that oil pressure would clean the rest of the threads. Worked wonderfully, no issues. JARblue and Hotrodz like this.

08-03-2021, 05:22 AM	#13 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6776	I'll tap into the oil cooler line with an adapter. I would be too scared to introduce metal into the block by tapping the factory sensor location. Too bad there aren't any other ports in the block.

08-29-2021, 09:01 PM	#15 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6776	Finally got everything back together. It was a big pain in the rear to get the upper oil pan out and the replacement one in. I ended up lifting the engine high enough to pull it out over the suspension. Spent the money on AEM temp and pressure sensor and gauges. Installed the pressure sensor, which is a lot smaller than the Autometer sensor, with an AN adapter to the oil cooler. So now I have very precise temp and pressure readings. I drove the car around the neighborhood and had a hard time getting the temps up to good operating temp. Pressure was as high as 120 psi with the temp slowly creeping up. Had to keep revs above 3000 to keep heating the oil. My concern is that at the track the highest temps I saw was 210 in the oil pan. From there the oil goes through the cooler before being pumped through the engine. Does that mean the oil is only 180 to 190 as it enters the engine? That is just into the minimum temp for elevating the revs above the low range. I do not have a thermostatic adapter, I figured for a track only car in Florida, that there would never be a time when not want to have my oil cooled. Is the heating process putting too much stress on seals, and do I need to get a thermostatic adapter?