Fortune Auto 510

redondoaveb · 05-04-2021, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bpchaos

Another option would be the guys at MotoIQ. They're in Gardena.

https://motoiq.com/motoiq-garage/#:~...C%20California.

MotoIQ will do the suspension install but they send the car to Westend (Darin) for alignment. I'd like to go by and check out their shop and talk to them and see what they're all about

Spooler · 05-05-2021, 10:14 AM

Stiff does not mean a good handling car. A compliant car that gives confidence is the best setup. Sounds like you need to do some more research. Get some help like was suggested.

Rusty · 05-05-2021, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy

Thank you so much for thr DM as well, the race shop that basically did everything to the car is JMP. issue is theyre mostly e46 guys and told me I can go up tp even 20k up front and then accordingly in the rear. wondering if thats too much

v3's are just too soft for me

If they told you 20K for the front. Run away from them. That is around what you would use for a 4,000+ lb car.

OptionZero · 05-05-2021, 03:19 PM

I am 100% you misheard them or misunderstood when they said “20k”. That’s insane.

Brendan · 05-05-2021, 11:26 PM

Running 18k up front and may go up to 20k but I am an autocross sea urchin.

The nice thing about Fortunes is they have a crazy range of rate they can take before needing to be re-valved. Plus or minus 8k or so. If you get them be sure to pick up some bump stops and helper springs. Helper springs will really help with allowing the car to drive nicely on the street with higher main spring rates as they allow you to keep a good amount of droop. Bump stops will allow you go low without the risk of slapping chassis or having the tire rub the fender/bumper bracket.

Springs are easy to change. Get a good starting point and then learn what you like or dislike and make appropriate changes based on how the tires heat up and wear and how the car is driving.

As for divorced (oem type) vs true, I don't think it matters too much. I run divorced style cause of the da rules. Going true type changes the motion ratio so it will require you to run much softer springs in the rear.

I would start at 16k front and then depending on the rear coilover type you go with 14k for oem/divorced rear and maybe 5k rear if you true style. that will put you on the lower side of 2 hertz front and rear (2.2fr/2.1rr give or take a .02 or so depending on how heavy your wheels and brakes etc are)

Cheers, and remember, don't stress too much on getting it "right". Chances are wherever you start will be wrong. Spend more time learning how to understand what changes will do to affect how the car handles.

justin_boy · 05-06-2021, 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero

I am 100% you misheard them or misunderstood when they said “20k”. That’s insane.

no thats what e46 guys run, even up to 22k up front but spl guys explained to me that they can run that on e46's but not on the 370

justin_boy · 05-06-2021, 03:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redondoaveb

MotoIQ will do the suspension install but they send the car to Westend (Darin) for alignment. I'd like to go by and check out their shop and talk to them and see what they're all about

darren and chris installed the kw's and even set the car up for my driving style. but ive gotten 10 alignments since then and im trying to figure it out myself, which is mistake #1

justin_boy · 05-06-2021, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan

Running 18k up front and may go up to 20k but I am an autocross sea urchin.

The nice thing about Fortunes is they have a crazy range of rate they can take before needing to be re-valved. Plus or minus 8k or so. If you get them be sure to pick up some bump stops and helper springs. Helper springs will really help with allowing the car to drive nicely on the street with higher main spring rates as they allow you to keep a good amount of droop. Bump stops will allow you go low without the risk of slapping chassis or having the tire rub the fender/bumper bracket.

Springs are easy to change. Get a good starting point and then learn what you like or dislike and make appropriate changes based on how the tires heat up and wear and how the car is driving.

As for divorced (oem type) vs true, I don't think it matters too much. I run divorced style cause of the da rules. Going true type changes the motion ratio so it will require you to run much softer springs in the rear.

I would start at 16k front and then depending on the rear coilover type you go with 14k for oem/divorced rear and maybe 5k rear if you true style. that will put you on the lower side of 2 hertz front and rear (2.2fr/2.1rr give or take a .02 or so depending on how heavy your wheels and brakes etc are)

Cheers, and remember, don't stress too much on getting it "right". Chances are wherever you start will be wrong. Spend more time learning how to understand what changes will do to affect how the car handles.

thank you for the help, i will stay divorced and take your advice on the spring rates

thanks again for everything

justin_boy · 05-12-2021, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

So you have a car that is more suited for track and you are going to spend money on something that is not horrible but there is better. True type coilovers are the way to go. The setup is no more difficult than doing mid links and is less expensive. You should get to know some of the folks that participate in the Nissan Challenge as there is a ton of knowledge there. Malko or eagle here on the forum is someone you should talk to. DM him about his setup. He is one of the fastest guys in his class and overall. He runs Powertrix coilovers and they are true type. They are a very good product for the money. If you are over running your KWs then you are good enough for a true type coil. I am a suspension junkie and it is worth doing it right. You have a ton of experts close to you. Find one a follow their lead. Another good shop is Rockstar, they are a Feal dealer and very good with Japanese cars.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

i genuinely think my driving skill is not advanced enough to feel the difference in true type to divorced type, i was even thinking of getting some BC series ER, getting them custom 14k front 12k rear, or even 16k front 14k rear. the problem is I jumped the gun before and got V3's because i thought they were the best on the market. They were amazing but I dont know suspension mechanics well enough to have 3-way adjustable coilovers; and would rather have something simpler, if that makes sense.

justin_boy · 05-12-2021, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan

Running 18k up front and may go up to 20k but I am an autocross sea urchin.

The nice thing about Fortunes is they have a crazy range of rate they can take before needing to be re-valved. Plus or minus 8k or so. If you get them be sure to pick up some bump stops and helper springs. Helper springs will really help with allowing the car to drive nicely on the street with higher main spring rates as they allow you to keep a good amount of droop. Bump stops will allow you go low without the risk of slapping chassis or having the tire rub the fender/bumper bracket.

Springs are easy to change. Get a good starting point and then learn what you like or dislike and make appropriate changes based on how the tires heat up and wear and how the car is driving.

As for divorced (oem type) vs true, I don't think it matters too much. I run divorced style cause of the da rules. Going true type changes the motion ratio so it will require you to run much softer springs in the rear.

I would start at 16k front and then depending on the rear coilover type you go with 14k for oem/divorced rear and maybe 5k rear if you true style. that will put you on the lower side of 2 hertz front and rear (2.2fr/2.1rr give or take a .02 or so depending on how heavy your wheels and brakes etc are)

Cheers, and remember, don't stress too much on getting it "right". Chances are wherever you start will be wrong. Spend more time learning how to understand what changes will do to affect how the car handles.

i think im going to do exactly that, (OEM 16k/14k) probably

btw your z looks insane with those 305's in the front. are they ze 40's?

what do you think about BC series ER?

Hotrodz · 05-12-2021, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy

i genuinely think my driving skill is not advanced enough to feel the difference in true type to divorced type, i was even thinking of getting some BC series ER, getting them custom 14k front 12k rear, or even 16k front 14k rear. the problem is I jumped the gun before and got V3's because i thought they were the best on the market. They were amazing but I dont know suspension mechanics well enough to have 3-way adjustable coilovers; and would rather have something simpler, if that makes sense.

I am still running one way adjustable coil overs and I don't think 3 ways are practical as two ways will get the job done if you have the bones to buy them. Every shop that has been listed for you can help you with setup regardless of 1, 2 or 3 way. Pictures of cars with their tires in the air are cool, but a planted car is faster. Regardless of your skill set the more planted or stable the car is the more confidence you will have.

Also, quit selling yourself short. Your times continue to fall every time you go to the track. There are others that have more seat time than you and you are faster than them. I get it. I always compare myself to the fastest guys in my class, whp range and I think I am slow. The reality is I have fewer cars in front of me than behind me now and the fckers in S2Ks and Lotus run buy cars with two and three times the power if they got skills and if you see a Miata in your rear view mirror, just salute them and move aside. I pretend they don't exist and don't count lol.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

justin_boy · 05-12-2021, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

I am still running one way adjustable coil overs and I don't think 3 ways are practical as two ways will get the job done if you have the bones to buy them. Every shop that has been listed for you can help you with setup regardless of 1, 2 or 3 way. Pictures of cars with their tires in the air are cool, but a planted car is faster. Regardless of your skill set the more planted or stable the car is the more confidence you will have.

Also, quit selling yourself short. Your times continue to fall every time you go to the track. There are others that have more seat time than you and you are faster than them. I get it. I always compare myself to the fastest guys in my class, whp range and I think I am slow. The reality is I have fewer cars in front of me than behind me now and the fckers in S2Ks and Lotus run buy cars with two and three times the power if they got skills and if you see a Miata in your rear view mirror, just salute them and move aside. I pretend they don't exist and don't count lol.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

thanks bud i really appreciate it. BTW i ran a 2:07 at button before i blew the clutch

crazy how some cars blow by you, but youre right. I called chris from west end, he said go with the fortunes. so much to cough up. blech

Hotrodz · 05-12-2021, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy

thanks bud i really appreciate it. BTW i ran a 2:07 at button before i blew the clutch

crazy how some cars blow by you, but youre right. I called chris from west end, he said go with the fortunes. so much to cough up. blech

Your times are getting closer and closer to the fast bois! You well pushing that 2:00 mark pretty soon!

Glad you maid the call. West End has been handling track cars for a long, long time.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Brendan · 05-12-2021, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy

i think im going to do exactly that, (OEM 16k/14k) probably

btw your z looks insane with those 305's in the front. are they ze 40's?

what do you think about BC series ER?

315*

Bc, fortune, feal etc I don't think it matters too much. As long as what you get is serviceable (preferably in the USA) and allows you to change spring rate, it's fine. The only reason I went with fortune was because of the wide range of spring tolerance. I'm sure there are pros to the other brands but that's why I chose mine.

justin_boy · 05-13-2021, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

Your times are getting closer and closer to the fast bois! You well pushing that 2:00 mark pretty soon!

Glad you maid the call. West End has been handling track cars for a long, long time.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Thank you sir!! My goal is sub 2 eventually with this same exact set up. I have to give it to my instructor, I’ve done every single track day with him and I can honestly say each day with him is what I would learn by myself in a year. I know i can knock off a couple seconds by turning on synchrorev but my stubbornness won’t let me and I need to go sub 2 heel toe-info.

Chris and Darren are awesome, Darren took a whole Friday and set up and installed my v3’s and spl bits. They’re the best

Thanks again

05-05-2021, 10:14 AM	#17 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,798 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Stiff does not mean a good handling car. A compliant car that gives confidence is the best setup. Sounds like you need to do some more research. Get some help like was suggested. JARblue, cv129, Rusty and 2 others like this. Last edited by Spooler; 05-05-2021 at 10:17 AM.

05-05-2021, 03:19 PM	#19 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,225 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214100	I am 100% you misheard them or misunderstood when they said “20k”. That’s insane. JARblue, Rusty and Hotrodz like this. __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

05-05-2021, 11:26 PM	#20 (permalink)
Brendan Track Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Colorado Posts: 640 Drives: Poor man's Porsche Rep Power: 542	Running 18k up front and may go up to 20k but I am an autocross sea urchin. The nice thing about Fortunes is they have a crazy range of rate they can take before needing to be re-valved. Plus or minus 8k or so. If you get them be sure to pick up some bump stops and helper springs. Helper springs will really help with allowing the car to drive nicely on the street with higher main spring rates as they allow you to keep a good amount of droop. Bump stops will allow you go low without the risk of slapping chassis or having the tire rub the fender/bumper bracket. Springs are easy to change. Get a good starting point and then learn what you like or dislike and make appropriate changes based on how the tires heat up and wear and how the car is driving. As for divorced (oem type) vs true, I don't think it matters too much. I run divorced style cause of the da rules. Going true type changes the motion ratio so it will require you to run much softer springs in the rear. I would start at 16k front and then depending on the rear coilover type you go with 14k for oem/divorced rear and maybe 5k rear if you true style. that will put you on the lower side of 2 hertz front and rear (2.2fr/2.1rr give or take a .02 or so depending on how heavy your wheels and brakes etc are) Cheers, and remember, don't stress too much on getting it "right". Chances are wherever you start will be wrong. Spend more time learning how to understand what changes will do to affect how the car handles. JARblue, cv129 and Hotrodz like this.

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