Engine Kill Switch
 

When it comes to electronics, I’m not very skilled, so I hope that someone out here can give me some guidance. I’ve installed the Cartek GT Solid State Battery Isolator. The battery kill was simple, but I cannot figure out how to wire the engine kill. See pic below from the instructions which describes sending power to the ignition or ECU directly from the Cartek unit. I’ve looked at wiring diagrams and cannot figure out the best location to tap into the ignition or ECU power supply on my 2013 370Z. I also worry about keeping any fuses or relays in line so I don’t run into issues there. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thank you!!

Should be able to kill the engine through Ecu tek.

I have this kit on my rsx, unfortunately, I didn't take the risk to install it myself and hired a pro, after looking into the manual, it says you need to find ECU or IGN fuse to use it, I found a diagram for 370z fuse box but IGN marked as 50A which will not work, as the limit is 40A, tried to get a better diagram with no luck (as my car isn't here at home)

https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/wp/...STRUCTIONS.pdf

https://www.justanswer.com/nissan/7r...rter-kill.html

i dunno maybe this will help sounds like it's a pain in the *** to wiring into the ignition relay pin.

what are you trying to do with this kill switch anyway? Is this for a race use? Could you maybe cut power to the fuel pump and stall the engine instead. That might be easier to wire.

Thank you. I didn’t know that sited exists. Looks promising. Yes, ST3 race build in process.

Thank you. Looks like I’ll need to get a pro to do this one so I don’t damage the unit or the car.

I think yours works basically the same way as this thing.

The device should cut power to the ecu before isolating the battery.

:iagree: and it's probably a much easier method of doing so

So for a racing application, where you need both internal and external kill switches. In case of fire / you are incapacitated / you have a crash. Can you hook up a physical button on your dash / exterior panel to kill the engine via ecutek? If it's not easy to kill in a panic then it's not really very useful IMO (for this application)

Excellent video. Helps a lot. Thank you!

https://youtu.be/12jMvNNlGpM

Custom maps, sure things have advanced since the making of this video. I would recommend coughing up the money for a stand alone. If you’re strictly racing the car an emtron kv16 with a pdm would highly benefit in what you’re trying to do. You could add sensors to your suspension, professional awesome has inexpensive tire temp sensors and if you a digital dash you could log you laps and go over the data to see where you can pick up time.
Just an idea instead of adding a bunch of other stand-alone devices to the car, just more things to monitor, more things to go wrong, and at the end of the day you spent just as much money as a stand-alone and pdm, plus there downtime figuring out how to get all this to work with the factory ecu.

Guy just wants a battery isolator lol. Recommending he swap his ECU and use a PDM (that's like minimum $5k? and since there are no plug and play harness a lot of time wiring) Seems excessive :D Also pretty sure aftermarket PDM need to be connected to the battery via an isolator anyway? At least that's what the MOTEC PDM30 manual says

It is a race car, he strictly is building to race and be competitive. You select a pdm based on your electrical need and/or things you want to monitor. Data is what can make you fast on the track. It’s a valuable tool that can gain that extra 2-3 tenths. Simplifying the electrical system, takes weight out the car, dont have to worry about fuses and relays anymore, and the processor of the stand-alone is so much faster. Plus whatever you want to do and monitor can be done, your only limitations is your imagination. Excessive, I don’t quite understand where you’re coming from? To someone who who has no or little background in racing it might seem expensive, but that same person will spend 4K on wheels and tires, 6-10k on forced inductions, and 3k on a wrap job, but complain spending 6-8k on great coils, 3k on a diff, and/or 4K on seat time, tires, etc... . Would you also say him spending $3,100 on the mk60 abs system to prevent ice is a tad bit excessive and the amount of time he is going to have to spend to work out the kinks?

Yeah I meant in the context of this thread and the OP's question.

It seems to me that Elmo was just giving him some thoughts based on the context of the build goals :twocents:

Yeah for sure. I did think it's was a little humorous that you could perceive it as:

Hey guys how can I wire in my battery isolator?

1: remove your factory ecu
2: spend 6k on an ECU and PDM
3: rewire your car

I'm also interested in aftermarket ECU and PDM
Though I think you would still use a standalone battery isolator anyway, just instead of cutting power to the ECU completely it would send a signal to the stand-alone to trigger is shutdown.

The one in that video sends signals to ECU over CANBUS and i think it works with motec. So I don't think that adding this isolator precludes or is redundant if he wanted to swithc to an aftermarket ECU/PDM or combo unit.

But I don't know the capabilities of all the PDMs so maybe some have that built in. /shrug

Yeah. My immediate goal is to spend an incremental $1.50 on some 12V wire to add a killswitch for safety. But I can envision a standalone ECU in the future. One step at a time. Thanks guys.

I’m all wired up with internal and external batter isolation already. Just need to get the engine kill wiring part figured out.

Yep I just meant I'm not sure that ecutek can receive a signal via the kill switch like some other ECU can. You may have to cut the ecu power directly. Which i think should be fine, I'm not sure what pin it is but you could check yourself by disconnecting 12v leads to the ECU maybe. I recently got a very sharp probe set my my multimeter so I could poke the wires to figure out what is what.

I'm sure there's also wiring diagrams around for what leads are power for the ECU tho. You'd want to replace that lead with the lead from your cartek if i'm reading it right.

EDIT: So i'm going to install one of these myself and am looking into it more

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wm15whix37...20PM.png?raw=1

suggest to me you don't want to cut power to the ECM entirely as that will wipe it's memory.

I think you may have to go with https://www.dropbox.com/s/mnnj50sy9x...20PM.png?raw=1

pin 47

please report back with how the install goes I'd love some pictures of how you end up connecting it.

Thank you! Awesome. At sounds like a good pathe to head down. I’ll report back out.