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Engine Kill Switch
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When it comes to electronics, I’m not very skilled, so I hope that someone out here can give me some guidance. I’ve installed the Cartek GT Solid State Battery Isolator. The battery kill was simple, but I cannot figure out how to wire the engine kill. See pic below from the instructions which describes sending power to the ignition or ECU directly from the Cartek unit. I’ve looked at wiring diagrams and cannot figure out the best location to tap into the ignition or ECU power supply on my 2013 370Z. I also worry about keeping any fuses or relays in line so I don’t run into issues there. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thank you!!
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I have this kit on my rsx, unfortunately, I didn't take the risk to install it myself and hired a pro, after looking into the manual, it says you need to find ECU or IGN fuse to use it, I found a diagram for 370z fuse box but IGN marked as 50A which will not work, as the limit is 40A, tried to get a better diagram with no luck (as my car isn't here at home)
https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/wp/...STRUCTIONS.pdf |
https://www.justanswer.com/nissan/7r...rter-kill.html
i dunno maybe this will help sounds like it's a pain in the *** to wiring into the ignition relay pin. what are you trying to do with this kill switch anyway? Is this for a race use? Could you maybe cut power to the fuel pump and stall the engine instead. That might be easier to wire. |
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I think yours works basically the same way as this thing. The device should cut power to the ecu before isolating the battery. |
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Custom maps, sure things have advanced since the making of this video. I would recommend coughing up the money for a stand alone. If you’re strictly racing the car an emtron kv16 with a pdm would highly benefit in what you’re trying to do. You could add sensors to your suspension, professional awesome has inexpensive tire temp sensors and if you a digital dash you could log you laps and go over the data to see where you can pick up time. Just an idea instead of adding a bunch of other stand-alone devices to the car, just more things to monitor, more things to go wrong, and at the end of the day you spent just as much money as a stand-alone and pdm, plus there downtime figuring out how to get all this to work with the factory ecu. |
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Yeah I meant in the context of this thread and the OP's question.
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It seems to me that Elmo was just giving him some thoughts based on the context of the build goals :twocents:
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