Oh this is the exact camber setting I have and she is 99% for track except driving back and forth to the track. Was trying to see if raising it higher (to your suggestion 26”) will benefit the handling performance on the track. Also need to figure out the suspension travel issue if any.

About 2" drop is maximum for limiting issues. If you don't have a splitter then a 1 to 1.5" drop is plenty. With a splitter that is 3" plus beyond the front bumper you want to get as low as possible to maximize downforce. There is a reason that pro racing has ride height requirements.

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You never want to go so low that you scrape. When you scrape, you unload the tires and suspension.

^Yes!
And sorry, I was trying to say closer to OEM is more beneficial. But vq37818 explained it perfectly :tiphat:

As far as lowering the z goes, being that I’m a big idiot, I like to keep sh!t as dumbed down and simple as possible, ergo a one inch drop (Or just a hair lower), was optimal back when wifey and I had our nismo.

With stock gen 1 nismo aero at Daytona on the front straight, at around 130+ the car got scary light at stock height, with just a one inch (ish) drop, it was stable to 145 ish and the lift above the was less dramatic/scary.

I don’t remember all our alignment settings off the top of my head but I do remember the we ran -2.2 camber up front and -1.6 (or was it -1.8) out back. Like rusty and others said, there is a lot of dynamic negative camber gain so no need to run a ton of static neg camber out back.

Our toe was set 0 front and slight toe in in the rear, that gives a momentary toe out condition from weight transfer when braking hard off a straight going into a turn so we found it helped with turn in.

This was all on aggressive street tires, NOT r comps. With dedicated track tires, we would have been more aggressive with the - camber settings and possibly even run very slight toe out up front.

Our car was set up as a true dual use car that could be at home street or track so of course there were alignment setting compromises etc.

Edit: just remembered, we had caster set at 6.

You ran almost the same setting as I'm using now.

Great (pervy) minds think alike. :tup:

Tire wear with our setup was pretty dang even across the tread, I don’t remember the tire pressure track settings but 36 psi cold (maybe?).

We also used a pyrometer probe to check tire temps (outside blocks, center, and inside blocks) on each tire and the temps were very close across the board on each tire. Temps in relation to the three spots per tire is more important than comparing one tire to another although that is important too. That lets you know your alignment settings and tire pressures are pretty dialed in, better than just looking at tire wear bc each track can wear tires differently and that won’t let you know if your really using all your tire across the tread and maximizing grip at a given circuit.

Edit: now I’m thinking 38-40 psi hot for tire pressures. Fvck, obviously I don’t remember well at all the tire pressures we ran but y’all get the idea about what to check and how regarding tires alignment and pressures.

Evil minds think alike. I run almost the same pressure. :icon14: