My '14 Nismo height and damping settings.
 

I have a 2014 Nismo. For my FA510s I run 27 1/4 in the front and 27 1/2 in the back. Rides just fine on street and track lowered to these measurements. I set the damping to 14 front and 10 in the back for the track and 4/4 for the street. I like the ride softer on the street anything more than 14F/10R the car seems unsettled at speed when at the track.

Just my experience.

You have to set the car up the way you like it and for the tracks you run on. A smooth track with few bumps you want to increase stiffness and bumpy tracks you decrease stiffness as a general rule. I am running with a big wing in the rear and a five inch splitter up front which changes the dynamics for suspension setup. It is a game of trade offs as all cars have limitations. It is just about how much money you want spend on getting them as perfect as you can for your driving style and ability. Many of the best pro drivers will tell you for handling performance you pretty much can't beat a Miata that is well setup and from my experience that is a true statement.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

The Bilstein B16's are a thread-into-body coilover...as such, I assume I will not have to worry about compression travel distance and any pre-mature bumpstop strikes. Is my understanding correct?

I already have installed the SPL Upper Control arm. Will that help with any of the geometry concerns of lowering that you guys have brought up?

I will defer to my Suspension Track Shop (Miata Race Shop)...but I would not look to drop any more than 30mm. Given than I am already at 27 3/8" stock....I would drop to ~ 26 1/4" worse case.

Still looking for everyone's input...as I take it to the shop on Wed morning.

So I have found a solution for lowering the front as has been suggested by Rusty, Spooler and vq37818. They are $500 for the set.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4300c0b77c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b8dc070d88.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Are those nightlrkr's?

Who???:icon14:

Here it is

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...-knuckles.html

In short, he took the stock ones, chopped and shortened them, then welded the two ends back together. Looks like good quality, but the thought of it snapping is scary.

An old timer here did snap an OEM one during a tight curve, car was totaled as a result. Hard for me to shake that thought every time I think about nightlrkr’s knuckle, no matter how much I wanted it.

:iagree:

LOL...I don't know how I missed that thread and to Jar's question that is him. He has sold a number of sets and I have yet to hear any issues granted track session is just getting geared up. I read the whole thread and I follow him on Instagram and from what I see he is legit. He responded to all my questions quickly and in real time.

Lastly, everything we do once we start modifying the car adds a level of risk. Leaving it stock is risky when you are tracking it. Hell ask a manufacture what does off road use mean for a 4x4 truck and they will tell you it is for maintained dirt roads, rain and mud and snow on paved or those maintained dirt roads. Everything we do at the track is about comfort level of the risk we are willing to take.

At some point I hope to dig up my balls again and buy a set.

I think I am going to do it to optimize my aero setup. May the force be with me!!!

Down force.

Go big or go home!!!:p

Optimal ride height for track setup
 

Exactly. I’ve been meaning buying a set of those knuckles for months. He told me that the knuckles correct camber by a degree, so gonna wait until I buy some SPL FUCAs.

You can lessen the effect of that exponential camber change by adjusting the arms close to 0 degrees, but you will lose the contact patch (positive camber) on extension. I would just lower to the 26 1/4” and get a feel for the car. It’s all subjective, you may not be bothered by it at your limits.