Big thing about my setup is having north of 500whp.

The factory VLSD I was getting loads of inside wheel spin and I was never able to utilize the extra power, there's multiple corners on my home track that I used to never be able to stay flat out without getting inside spin that I'm able to now.

Here's a video of the factory VLSD in action
https://www.instagram.com/p/BRJuDWzgwbw/

It's hard to say if you'll get those kind of gains but another guy that runs with me is running a N/A 370 and saw similar results when he went to a Nismo 1.5 though.

The stickier the tire, bigger the power and more aero all exaggerates how poor the factory LSD is.

I was getting smokey, one-wheeler-peelers at stock hp. I cant imagine how bad it would be at 500.

https://live.staticflickr.com/882/41...2b59d829_c.jpg_BES1848 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/1744/2...5a32c91f_c.jpg_BES1849 by brendan sobers, on Flickr

Bottom line is: get a real diff op. You wont regret it.

How about a set of these?

Even on the street the stock VLSD was horrible. On the Tail of the Dragon, forget it. When I put my OSG 1.5 way in I was very happy. I am now looking at having it tightened up for the HP level I am at now. The factory setting of the 1.5 way is for a stock HP car.

I run a Wavetrac LSD and a diff cooler just to be safe it actually got hot running on the Dragon when pushing it. I change the fluid once a year and it has performed flawlessly. The nice thing about it is it does come with a lifetime warranty so that is your insurance if it goes bad. I am also looking to go with OSG diff as well because I want to run 3.39 gears do to the power level of my Z and the need for taller gears on go fast tracks.

I think the best thing that has happened for me is that I blew my engine lol. I bought a Miata that my brother is going to buy from me when my new motor is built and I get the Z back. The Miata is a great car for learning how to drive faster. I am starting to run time with the mid pack of the Spec Miata race group run and having a ball chasing much faster cars around the track with all of 118whp. Save your money on building the car and just go to the track, get instruction and practice, practice, practice. You will be surprised at what that will do in achieving your goal.

This is part of what I was saying, to leave the car streatable, he should look at 997 GT3 or Cayman GT4 performance. 991.1 GT3 level is possible without a major power upgrade but it will not be streetable anymore, he will need to gain time with braking/ turn speed/ and exit. Porsches aren't the fastest around corners in stock form, their strong point that they provide a perfect balance between drivability, corner speed and power.


Agree, slow cars make you a better driver, as you try to maximize your turn in speed and speed corner to cover for lack of power on exit, you reach the edge of traction without killing yourself :rofl2:.

:iagree:

When I started off I always wished I had less power and so the turns wouldn't come up as fast and there was more time to think. I feel somewhat bad for the newer muscle car owners coming to the track who have it even worse.

Building a race car is always expensive, buying a race car that has already been built is always the cheapest. Two 370z for sale on racingjunk.com now, either will be at least competitive one would destroy 911s and comes with all the big ticket spare parts.

:iagree::iagree: I am not ashamed to say I did it wrong. I thought I was just building a fast street car and then I decided to go to the track. Yes the car made me fast but it definitely hindered my learning curve because the better you get with fast car, the you go and the more you are asking it to kill you. So my advise to those that want to be a fast diver is to spend $6 to $8k on a Miata and go have fun for a couple of years. You can sell the car for what you paid for it and put into your build or faster race car.

I have to agree with these guys as well. The first time I got on a track I wish I had a slower car for all the reasons stated above. Plus, slower/smaller cars have cheaper consumables (brakes,tires,gas) which is always a plus.

I went from bikes to cars. I raced bikes most of my life. From 125cc 2 strokes to 1000cc 180hp superbikes. The biggest thing with me was trying not to lean in the seat of the car, like I would with a bike. :icon14: I still catch myself every so often still trying to lean. :rofl2:

The other thing is my braking points between the bikes and car. I have to brake a lot sooner with the car.

I totally agree with everyone's comments about spending money on seat time and learning to drive the "slower car". That remains my biggest investment while building up the 370z over time. I am in no hurry for mods...but do want to stick with my Z platform.

I actually had an accomplished Spec Miata and Endurance racer drive my Z last month. After only 3 laps in my car....he knocked 2 sec's off my best time...and he just got started. He taught me so much in just 3 laps about smooth, momentum driving. I will be spending my next two track days focusing on less brake, smoother turn-ins, and higher speeds on the long sweeping turns.

Next year will be the Coil-overs and LSD (after everyone's comments here). No power mods for at least another year or two out.

I am in no hurry to truly complete with 996, 997, or even the 911.2....but very interested in learning for those of you whom have the experience and past to educate me on what my goals should be.

Thanks again to all!!!!

Smooth is fast. When things start to slow down. Then you know you're getting faster. When things feel you're rushing your inputs. You're getting slower.

Wish you the best of luck.