Drag Racing Launch set up and times for Manual Transmissions

Gray Goose

Lets hear everyone's launch set up for manual transmission?

Tire
RPM
Gear
Clutch method (dump, ease into, etc.)
ETC.

0-60 time or 60 foot time

Dahawkster

I wish this topic was discussed more on this forum but it seems like not to many people on here talk about drag racing tire setups. But if anybody runs 15 or 17 inch drag radials or slicks I would really like to hear about your setup please.

285/35/19 kumho V12 ventus
2600
1st
Ease into
60ft avg 2.1
Ever since I put the 4.08s in I have to baby it off the line if not it will just spin the tires

Hotrodz

You may want to PM or contact Blueranger as he is killin it with his setup!

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Spooler

Do a search on member Phunk. He has posted a good bit of info on this and the car he setup has the record 1/4 mile time for the 370z.

FPenvy

305/30/19 RE-11
1st gear
no rpm launch. just full gas on last yellow.
1.95 60ft

well.........with 7AT

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Dahawkster

Phunk does seem to be the most knowledgeable about the drag setups but he also has a high horsepower car. But what I wanna hear about is the people with not so much power and still cracking like 1.8 60ft without crazy wheel hop..

Spooler

You need to switch to a Bias ply drag slick.

Dahawkster

Ok I understand the bias ply is for standard cars and helps with wheel hop but is anybody actually running any and can give us some feedback?

Spooler

Do a search on here for user name Phunk. You should be able to find the info you are looking for. I don't have
time to search for it for you. I have read many of his contributions to drag racing setups.

Trips

The search here sucks Monkey Balls!

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Spooler

I have always found what I was looking for. Works for me. I have spent hours upon hours reading old threads.

Dahawkster

So I have read every thread with drag in the title and the best info I came across for drag setup was by PHUNK. He seems to be the ONLY person on this entire forum with good knowledge about it. But what we are asking for here is for more feed back on what people are running and how well it works. It seems like only a hand full of people actually drag the 6sp Z on here or something.

sirnixalot

I've run M&H 275/50r17 drag radials on some R33 17x9 wheels. Unfortunately that was before we got the timing system so I don't have any numbers or data to share.

I had them at 16psi and they did hook quite well when I was just NA as well as with the 110hp shot of nitrous. I only got wheel hop when I launched too high (4250rpm on the launch control was the sweet spot for me) or came off the clutch too hard.



I'll be back at the track end of October but with alot more power to try out some MT ET Street's in the same size, I know they are a downgrade compared to the M&H but it's what I have at the moment. I'll report back then

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phunk

Ive run 15s before. You have to switch to early 350z base model rear brakes. Youll need calipers, pads, rotors, and I think the lines IIRC. Light modifications to the backing plate.

You can run a 26x10.5 tire if you want to stay stockish diameter. If you have lots of power you may want to step up to a 28x10.5. One thing to note is that I found my brake bias to behave a little funny with the 28" tire and small rear brake combo. I cant say whether it was due to the proportioning system disliking the larger diameter or if it was just due to the change in rear piston surface area. I never really thought much about it, merely observed that it was occurring (over heating the rear brakes and compromising stability under hard braking).

Getting a 370z to hook up can be futile if you're stubborn about stance or ride height. If hooking up becomes a greater priority, it suddenly hooks up about as well as anything else IRS RWD.

Put on stock springs and shocks. You want the higher center of gravity because you want body roll (rear weight transfer). You want the lighter spring rates that accommodate weight transfer more. Get rid of as much negative camber as you are willing. More sidewall and lower tire pressure will allow you to maintain decent contact patch during suspension stroke when the camber gets real excited.

I have been using zero rear toe the last few years in my personal cars... I have no comment about that as far as how toe effects traction. I did it because I believe I was ruining drag compound street radials with excessive heat cycling from high speed highways runs; and getting rid of the toe to reduce friction/heat at least appears to have fixed the problem for me so far or at least extend the functional life of the tires.

Rolling on lowering springs, my best 60', using a 28x10.5 radial, was a 1.71. It was in a sea of crappier 60s and I dont imagine ever getting enough practice to replicate it on command. Using a setup more like I described above, Justins Z (on 28x10.5 bias ply slicks) could pound out 1.5 after 1.5, and occasional 1.4s, each and every one of them while babying the 100% stock driveline. There was probably 1.3s in there with an actually aggressive launch.

Attached Images

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Dahawkster

Hey Phunk how do you feel about running a 17 inch wheel with a 28x11.5 bias ply drag radial like the mickey Thompson ET street R. Do you think that will have enough side wall for a more cushioned launch? Or do you have any recommendations for just a FBO 370z setup besides going to a 15 inch wheel and slicks? I just feel converting to a 15 inch for a good size slick just might be a little over kill for FBOs and gearing but please let me know what you think....BTW I really appreciate your info on all this you seem to be the only one on this forum that has done serious drag racing in the Z