Daily Driver No Longer

JARblue

I'm thinking about my ARC coolant reservoir with the built-in catch cans. I would prefer to use the hoses it came with (previous owner included nice, braided hoses), but they are too large for the proper routing, which I understand to be via the upper plenum front PCV ports and the PCV check valve on the rocker cover. Instead the hoses are designed to fit on the larger port on the rocker cover (rear of the PCV valve) and the intake piping.

If I run the catch can hoses the way ARC designed them, could I also do the Open Breather Conversion PCV Delete from EPS that vents the crankcase to the atmosphere?

It would be a combination of these:

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jwick

I don’t recommend venting the crankcase to atmosphere. I still believe that part of the tuning/idling hiccup in the BP turbo kit is due to not having those hose plumbed back in preturbo. The TT kits route that back to the intake piping leading to the turbo. I think the ECU is expecting a certain amount of unmetered air at the TBs and when it doesn’t get it, it causes small issues. Nobody has been able to confirm this because there is no way to plumb the hose preturbo on the BP kit.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

JARblue

But the ARC setup would have some unmetered air going back into the intake piping after the MAFs before the TBs. Does not that not accomplish what you are concerned about?

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Wigjiggy

I have a newbie question, so don’t make fun of me. What does all that do for you? Is it to help protect the system? Heat management? Performance? I have a track only Z that I beat on like it owes me money. Feel like I may need something like this and/or power steering cooler, but I don’t know why exactly. Thanks

jwick

I have zero issues with the catch can. I just don’t recommend deleting the PCV and routing back between the MAF and TB. If the ARC setup keeps that, then it shouldn’t be a problem.

Minor thread detail. I will add a caveat. I have zero proof venting the crank case causes any issues. It’s just my theory and one that several of the BP guys and I tried finding a way to eliminate several years back. We kind of quit when we couldn’t find a solution. Best I can tell it has zero impact under load. It’s more a idle/drivability issue.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

jwick

I don’t know what you power steering fluid looks like, but mine boils at idle. Cooling that off will improve fluid performance and life.

That being said I’m still running the factory PS cooler that comes on the G and I haven’t noticed any performance drop at all. Of course I don’t track mine.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

JARblue

You're a newb? Loser!


The catch cans will help in removing blow by oil during the combustion process that can get recycled back into the intake manifold. When this blow by oil gets back into the combustion process, it lowers the octane rating of the fuel, so the catch cans are really just a way to keep the internals a little cleaner and running more efficient.

Power steering fluid boils pretty easy. I switched over to Redline ATF D6 but it will still boil after long stints of hard driving. The cooler is just added insurance. I would keep an eye on yours. If you find it boiling after a few laps, then consider making changes (start with fluid then maybe a new cooler if needed).

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Rusty

On the PS fluid. Do not fill the reservoir to the full line. Keep the fluid at the add line or a little below. When the fluid gets hot. It has to expand. The expanded fluid is forced out of the cap. That's what youe are seeing. You're not really boiling the fluid. It has to get over 600F. The ideal temp is between 175F to 200F. Once over 220F, it starts to break down.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

abm89

I believe there's a cold fill line. I was able to keep it in check when i did my first flush. (edit): i'm also using the redline ATF and the stock cooler and haven't had any issues. However, I think my driving style doesn't put a ton of stress on the pump; I know some others have had issues with overheating. It's safe to just upgrade the cooler anyway.

On the PCV system discussion, I ran my catch cans and now im running a can-atmosphere setup (basically the cans are venting to atmosphere, but the system is "close-looped". other than the smell, I don't have any issues so far. I might go back to the closed setup simply because the smell gets annoying, but for functionality, it's good.

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Complete Parts List:
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abm89

Also, i really hate that gold intake wrap job they did. it's like they didn't even try. here's mine (not the current catch can setup but most recent photo i have):

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Complete Parts List:
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Rusty

I'm using the Redline steering fluid, plus the Z1 steering cooler, and keep my level at the add mark. Never had any fluid come out of the cap so far.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

abm89

I've seen their own power steering-specific fluid before but wasn't sure if it was ok to use. That's good info.

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Complete Parts List:
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jwick

Mine doesn’t spill out but it definitely boils.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

Rusty

Next time you see it. Take a temp gun to it.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

jwick

Gotta get me one of those

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build