Daily Driver No Longer

JARblue · 03-20-2019, 10:31 AM

I am planning solid all around. The only question is whether I do the subframe before the diff or at the same time. Trying to figure out a way to fit the diff in the initial budget, but it's going to be tough.

JARblue · 03-20-2019, 10:48 AM

Just thoughts about belts. Needed? Worth it? https://zspeed.com/product/gates-pre...-v-drive-belt/

Also any recommendations on plugs? Should I just spend the extra for OEM over OEE? https://zspeed.com/product-category/...m-nissan-370z/

2011 Nismo#91 · 03-20-2019, 10:54 AM

Nice performance list! But where's the safety stuff? Harness bar, harness, etc.

Just my opinion but here are a couple suggestions.
Unless your taking things apart already I don't think the engine and transmission mounts are really necessary same goes with the damper, oil pump, and coolant reservoir. Not that these don't provide any benefit but I don't see them as cost effective as some to these other things I didn't see. Such as power steering cooler, brake ducts, front splitter, and a good predictive lap timer with data logger would be the most beneficial. Lastly rotors, two piece rotors are nice but they are expensive and because they're lighter they run hotter; I would just use normal rotors. I use Frozen Rotors blanks, they are cheap and resist warping and crazing pretty well. I think the discount code here still works for 10% off.

Forgot, the diff cooler is more trouble then it's worth as well. The Wavetech will be a great upgrade but I would just get a finned diff cover and be done with it.

JARblue · 03-20-2019, 11:31 AM

Stock safety for now. When I get a non-OEM seat, I will upgrade all necessary safety equipment at that time.
Transmission mount is too easy not to do it - I'll DIY.
If I decide to go ahead with the oil galley gasket, I will go ahead with the damper but not the oil pump. Still gathering input on that decision. Leaning towards yes.
Coolant flush is on the maintenance list, so that seems like a good opportunity to change out the reservoir. The real benefit is the oil catch can function.
Power steering cooler added to the list

Stillen brake duct kit already purchased
2-piece front rotors already installed - I like the weight savings and I picked up some Ti shims to help shield the heat.
Body is still stock - no plans to modify yet. Definitely will look into a front splitter.
The lap timers I was looking at are expensive. Won't really need one until I get some more seat time.
Finned diff cooler is an excellent suggestion as well

Spooler · 03-20-2019, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

Stock safety for now. When I get a non-OEM seat, I will upgrade all necessary safety equipment at that time.
Transmission mount is too easy not to do it - I'll DIY.
If I decide to go ahead with the oil galley gasket, I will go ahead with the damper but not the oil pump. Still gathering input on that decision. Leaning towards yes.
Coolant flush is on the maintenance list, so that seems like a good opportunity to change out the reservoir. The real benefit is the oil catch can function.
Power steering cooler added to the list

Stillen brake duct kit already purchased
2-piece front rotors already installed - I like the weight savings and I picked up some Ti shims to help shield the heat.
Body is still stock - no plans to modify yet. Definitely will look into a front splitter.
The lap timers I was looking at are expensive. Won't really need one until I get some more seat time.
Finned diff cooler is an excellent suggestion as well

Don't waste your money on a finned diff cover. Get a diff cooler instead. I am kicking myself for buying mine. Waste of money. Didn't do chit.

2011 Nismo#91 · 03-20-2019, 11:49 AM

Just don't put off safety stuff too long. OEM stuff is designed for highway speeds not track speeds and they will make your drive better on the track too. With my harness and seat I don't move from side to side or have to brace myself while having a death grip on the wheel. Now I have much better control of the wheel and pedals. Replace your coolant with water and waterwetter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

Don't waste your money on a finned diff cover. Get a diff cooler instead. I am kicking myself for buying mine. Waste of money. Didn't do chit.

If he's going with a geared diff, wavetech, it's overkill. On a clutch diff, OS giken, or vlsd it's very important.

Rusty · 03-20-2019, 12:01 PM

If you are planning to install the SPL subframe bushing. That would be the time to install the rear upper control arms bushings from SPL. It's easier to install them with the subframe out. But you can still do them with the subframe installed too. Just takes longer if you decide to go full SPL.

Hotrodz · 03-20-2019, 12:13 PM

Safety stuff is a must. Even if you don't do a seat you will need a helmet and a neck restraint. I you are not going to get a harness and harness bar, 4/6 point roll bar then the best neck restraint is the Simpson Hybrid.It is $1k but worth every dime. I personally would not do a harness bar and would get a 4 point roll bar. You can get one built and welded for about 1,200. A can't tell you how much a racing seat increase your experience and assist with your driver mod. It is very hard to carry speed through turns when you are holding on to the as an oh Jesus bar and trying to brace yourself with your legs instead of driving the car.

Like I said, racecar=rabbit hole. You got time on some stuff but don't wait on the safety stuff. As you get faster you will want and need many of things that been brought up unless you are content doing parade laps. I know you...you are one competitive guy so you will want do time attacks and time trials at a minimum.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

JARblue · 03-20-2019, 12:24 PM

I know I need a racing seat... the stock seats suck. Helmet definitely. That neck restraint cost ... ouch. I'll just drive safely

jwick · 03-20-2019, 12:25 PM

Just the safety portion of the IS track build was almost $4k. That was seats, cage, harnesses, etc.

Hotrodz · 03-20-2019, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

I know I need a racing seat... the stock seats suck. Helmet definitely. That neck restraint cost ... ouch. I'll just drive safely

Sometimes it's not about your driving. All it takes is oil or debris on track then you are into a wall or another car. The impact doesn't have to be much to snap your neck. The Simpson works with or without a harness and 1k is cheap insurance when it comes to being paralyzed or dying. I waited way to long to get mine, especially being boost.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

JARblue · 03-20-2019, 12:33 PM

I want to still be able to drive the car on the street. So a full cage is out. But a partial cage and seats and harness are part of the plan. Just TBD.

JARblue · 03-20-2019, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

Sometimes it's not about your driving. All it takes is oil or debris on track then you are into a wall or another car. The impact doesn't have to be much to snap your neck. The Simpson works with or without a harness and 1k is cheap insurance when it comes to being paralyzed or dying. I waited way to long to get mine, especially being boost.

I'm not being cavalier about it. I understand the risks. They are serious.

Hotrodz · 03-20-2019, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

I'm not being cavalier about it. I understand the risks. They are serious.

I know you are not and you no the risk I just want to state the obvious as there folks that are reading this thread that need to know! I'm also kind of found of you too LMAO!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

BettyZ · 03-20-2019, 06:03 PM

Where did you get the coolant reservoir from?

If you're going to do the oil galley gaskets - and you should - do the oil pump at the same time. You do NOT want to go back in there twice lol.

My dos centavos, since you're taking off everything out of the bay from bumper to the motor, figure out what you want to replace in that area and tackle it all at once. You dont want to be all up in the bay and be like "oh since I'm already here I should do xyz" and then have to wait for parts. Sounds like you're on the right track.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

03-20-2019, 10:31 AM	#46 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	I am planning solid all around. The only question is whether I do the subframe before the diff or at the same time. Trying to figure out a way to fit the diff in the initial budget, but it's going to be tough. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-20-2019, 10:48 AM	#47 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Just thoughts about belts. Needed? Worth it? https://zspeed.com/product/gates-pre...-v-drive-belt/ Also any recommendations on plugs? Should I just spend the extra for OEM over OEE? https://zspeed.com/product-category/...m-nissan-370z/ __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \| Last edited by JARblue; 03-20-2019 at 11:17 AM.

03-20-2019, 10:54 AM	#48 (permalink)
2011 Nismo#91 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 2,399 Drives: slowly Rep Power: 40569	Nice performance list! But where's the safety stuff? Harness bar, harness, etc. Just my opinion but here are a couple suggestions. Unless your taking things apart already I don't think the engine and transmission mounts are really necessary same goes with the damper, oil pump, and coolant reservoir. Not that these don't provide any benefit but I don't see them as cost effective as some to these other things I didn't see. Such as power steering cooler, brake ducts, front splitter, and a good predictive lap timer with data logger would be the most beneficial. Lastly rotors, two piece rotors are nice but they are expensive and because they're lighter they run hotter; I would just use normal rotors. I use Frozen Rotors blanks, they are cheap and resist warping and crazing pretty well. I think the discount code here still works for 10% off. Forgot, the diff cooler is more trouble then it's worth as well. The Wavetech will be a great upgrade but I would just get a finned diff cover and be done with it. bigaudiofanat likes this. __________________ GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere.Full Specs Last edited by 2011 Nismo#91; 03-20-2019 at 11:00 AM. Reason: Forgot

03-20-2019, 11:31 AM	#49 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Stock safety for now. When I get a non-OEM seat, I will upgrade all necessary safety equipment at that time. Transmission mount is too easy not to do it - I'll DIY. If I decide to go ahead with the oil galley gasket, I will go ahead with the damper but not the oil pump. Still gathering input on that decision. Leaning towards yes. Coolant flush is on the maintenance list, so that seems like a good opportunity to change out the reservoir. The real benefit is the oil catch can function. Power steering cooler added to the list Stillen brake duct kit already purchased 2-piece front rotors already installed - I like the weight savings and I picked up some Ti shims to help shield the heat. Body is still stock - no plans to modify yet. Definitely will look into a front splitter. The lap timers I was looking at are expensive. Won't really need one until I get some more seat time. Finned diff cooler is an excellent suggestion as well __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-20-2019, 12:01 PM	#52 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,163 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	If you are planning to install the SPL subframe bushing. That would be the time to install the rear upper control arms bushings from SPL. It's easier to install them with the subframe out. But you can still do them with the subframe installed too. Just takes longer if you decide to go full SPL. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

03-20-2019, 12:13 PM	#53 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	Safety stuff is a must. Even if you don't do a seat you will need a helmet and a neck restraint. I you are not going to get a harness and harness bar, 4/6 point roll bar then the best neck restraint is the Simpson Hybrid.It is $1k but worth every dime. I personally would not do a harness bar and would get a 4 point roll bar. You can get one built and welded for about 1,200. A can't tell you how much a racing seat increase your experience and assist with your driver mod. It is very hard to carry speed through turns when you are holding on to the as an oh Jesus bar and trying to brace yourself with your legs instead of driving the car. Like I said, racecar=rabbit hole. You got time on some stuff but don't wait on the safety stuff. As you get faster you will want and need many of things that been brought up unless you are content doing parade laps. I know you...you are one competitive guy so you will want do time attacks and time trials at a minimum. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Rusty and Spooler like this. __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

03-20-2019, 12:24 PM	#54 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	I know I need a racing seat... the stock seats suck. Helmet definitely. That neck restraint cost ... ouch. I'll just drive safely __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-20-2019, 12:25 PM	#55 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	Just the safety portion of the IS track build was almost $4k. That was seats, cage, harnesses, etc. Hotrodz likes this. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

03-20-2019, 12:33 PM	#57 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	I want to still be able to drive the car on the street. So a full cage is out. But a partial cage and seats and harness are part of the plan. Just TBD. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-20-2019, 06:03 PM	#60 (permalink)
BettyZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Chicagoland Age: 37 Posts: 5,261 Drives: A Garage Queen Rep Power: 2684371	Where did you get the coolant reservoir from? If you're going to do the oil galley gaskets - and you should - do the oil pump at the same time. You do NOT want to go back in there twice lol. My dos centavos, since you're taking off everything out of the bay from bumper to the motor, figure out what you want to replace in that area and tackle it all at once. You dont want to be all up in the bay and be like "oh since I'm already here I should do xyz" and then have to wait for parts. Sounds like you're on the right track. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk 2011 Nismo#91, JARblue and Rusty like this. __________________ '14 MB Nismo \| Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs. Betty Mods

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