Daily Driver No Longer

JARblue · 03-19-2019, 09:19 AM

Original Post:
Ok, I finally got serious about getting the Z out on the track. I've collected some serious parts over the years, and I'm open to any input from an experienced perspective. My goal is for the car to be street legal with a heavy emphasis on track performance. And since I'm not quite to the point where I can trailer it to a location (because I don't currently have a vehicle to tow with), reliability is the name of the game at this time. So while I prefer to stay focused on track performance, I don't mind sacrificing some to make sure the car can drive home after track sessions.

The vehicle has 100K daily driven miles. A lot of highway miles, but there are a number of hard driven miles in there as well. I change fluids frequently and never had any real mechanical issues other than a steering rack replaced under warranty at 80K, a broken fuel top hat, and a power steering leak fried my alternator.

Parts List:

( Click to show/hide )

UPDATE 05/2020
Oil pump gears are ready. Insurance is back on the car.

UPDATE 06/2020
Rolled the Z out of the garage for the first time in over 18 months. A quick spit shine cleaned her up nicely. Towed the car to Austin Z Clinic with the most of the front end torn down to minimize labor costs. Phase 1 begins.

( Click to show/hide )

Phase 1: oil gallery gaskets, oil pump gears, oil pan, oil cooler, crank pulley, thermostat, water pump, PS pump, PS cooler, coolant reservoir, intake, engine mounts, front sway bar, and front endlinks.

UPDATE 08/2020
Found some misc bits in the oil pan. Moving forward as planned. A good bit of the upper gallery gasket was missing when it was removed.

Phase 1 is complete.
Post #217

( Click to show/hide )

UPDATE 11/2020
Hydraulics went out so Phase 2 gets a head start.
Phase 2: dropped the car off at Austin Z Clinic for clutch kit, slave kit, transmission mount, and test pipes.
Driving like a champ now

UPDATE 12/2021
A Tundra backed into the Z while I was stopped at a light. It was at the body shop for 10 weeks for a new front bumper and hood. Not particularly happy with the shop communication or the finished product

UPDATE 02/2022
Got the Z back from the body shop and promptly put it up on a curb. That was 6 more weeks in the body shop for another new front bumper, new LH fender, headlights and a wheel

UPDATE 04/2022
The Z started knocking and smoking on the way home one day. Towed it to Austin Z Clinic. Had him replace all 4 accessory bearings, alternator, and spark plugs. Might as well move forward with Phase 3.
Phase 3: fuel assembly top hat and fuel starve solution.

UPDATE 05/2022
Phase 3 complete and the car is driving like a champ. Turns out the power steering fluid was seeping and dripping onto the alternator. Replace an o-ring but that doesn't appear to have solved the issue. Will be digging deeper. In the meantime, doing logs to update the tune with Eugene (Bythabay).

Chuck33079 · 03-19-2019, 10:14 AM

I don't see where you've listed a BP kit?

JLarson · 03-19-2019, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

I don't see where you've listed a BP kit?

It's in there, but you have to do some searching. He lists at as the "B" from the Billet Oil Pump Gears, the "P" from SPL, and "Kit" from the CJM RRP Kit.

FPenvy · 03-19-2019, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

I don't see where you've listed a BP kit?

why would he want that garbage?

FI TT only way to go

JARblue · 03-19-2019, 10:32 AM

I knew the first comment would be something about boost

Unfortunately, that would really blow the budget. Staying NA for now

Chuck33079 · 03-19-2019, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FPenvy

why would he want that garbage?

FI TT only way to go

No, he bought the correct transmission. He can use the BP kit.

FPenvy · 03-19-2019, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

No, he bought the correct transmission. He can use the BP kit.

it's still garbage in comparison

Chuck33079 · 03-19-2019, 11:20 AM

Says the guy who never bought either, and then gave up and bought a different car.

You need to hurry up and mod that GTR so you can keep up with a boosted Z.

FPenvy · 03-19-2019, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Says the guy who never bought either, and then gave up and bought a different car.

You need to hurry up and mod that GTR so you can keep up with a boosted Z.

i still think the GTR stock is enough vs boosted Z. i win the traction war all day. the Z needs more than just a set of snails to compete.....like a build block, tranny, fuel, etc...

i just start it and hit the gas

i gave up due to it being a waste of time and money.

now, doesnt mean that i dont have a list of parts i'm currently sourcing to go FBO and E85.

Rusty · 03-19-2019, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

Ok, so I finally want to get serious about getting the Z out on the track. I'm going to dump some money into maintenance stuff when I bite the bullet and pay labor for the install of numerous go-fast parts collected over the years. I'm looking for any input from an experienced perspective.

The vehicle has 100K daily driven miles. A lot of highway miles, but there are a number of hard driven miles in there as well. I change fluids frequently and never had any real mechanical issues other than a steering rack replaced under warranty at 80K, a broken fuel top hat, and some recent starter(?) issues.

With the future expectations of track and/or autoX activity, I'd like to go ahead with a few preventative maintenance items as is reasonable for the budget (only ~$5K so no boost). And since I'm not quite to the point where I want to trailer it to location (because I don't currently have a vehicle to tow with) driveability and reliability are the name of the game at this point. I don't mind sacrificing on-track performance and spending that money to make sure the car can drive home after track sessions (obviously that's not always possible and I will need to have a backup plan).

My thought was to assign a 1, 2, or 3 priority level to the item based on performance and risk criteria. A 1 rating would be high priority due to factors such as a high risk of failure due to mileage or cause racecar or high performance value for the cost or just basic maintenance that is due. A 3 rating would be low priority due to low likelihood of failure or cost prohibitions for now or something that has little to no impact on driveability as well as things that are good to keep in mind for the future. A 2 rating would be a medium priority and basically anything that doesn't fall into the other two categories. For example, this might be things that aren't a priority but are much easier to do while some other work is being done.

Maintenance Items
1 Starter issue
1 Clutch + CMAK
1 Fluids (engine, trans, diff, coolant, brake)
1 Spark Plugs
1 Injectors
1 Oil Gallery Gasket. Might as well do the oil pump at the same time since the front of the motor will be apart.

Performance Items
1 Driver Mod (w/ Instructor)
1 Seb re-tune (currently on Ecutek w/o RaceRom)
1 Hotchkis Front Sway Bar
1 SPL FUCAs (purchased)
1 Stillen Brake Duct Kit (purchased)
1 FI 34 Row Oil Cooler (purchased)
1 CJM Billet Top Hat
1 CJM RRP kit (purchased)
1 CJM Engine Mounts
1 Torque Solutions Transmission Mount
1 FI Test Pipes
1 Carbotech XP10/8 Pads
2 ARC Coolant Reservoir w/ Catch Cans (purchased)
2 SPL Differential Bushings (Whiteline poly currently installed)
2 SPL Subframe Bushings
2 Oil Pressure Gauge
2 Fuel Pressure Gauge.
3 Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers + related SPL suspension bits
3 Wavetrac Differential
3 Track Wheels (Enkei 18s likely)
3 Radiator (NOT CJM or miSHITmoto)
3 2-piece rear rotors
3 Billet Oil Pump Gears

I will do some work myself, but there are a number of things I've never done. And as much as I'd like to learn and have full confidence, I simply don't have the time to mess with them. I really just want to drive the car

My estimates with labor (for the priority items) already have me well over budget, but please let me know if you have any questions or any recommendations for go-fast parts or maintenance items to add to the list

Jar, if you want to play the autox game. You have to decide how far you want to go because of the restrictions in each class. Most of everything you want to do will put you at a disadvantage.

JARblue · 03-19-2019, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Jar, if you want to play the autox game. You have to decide how far you want to go because of the restrictions in each class. Most of everything you want to do will put you at a disadvantage.

I'm aware but its not an issue for me. I'm not looking to compete with anyone except myself. So I don't care what class they have to put me in. At least one of the groups I know about I'm told is very lax with the regulations.

JARblue · 03-19-2019, 05:14 PM

Oil pump is tempting. But expensive. What do you recommend? Sucker Punch is $1300 new so that's a big chunk out of the budget. I am not interested in RJM. Boundary Engineering is another but I know nothing about them.

Rusty · 03-19-2019, 05:21 PM

Sucker Punch would the way to go. Just doing the galley gaskets and oil pump will eat most of the $5K if you take it to a shop.

Hotrodz · 03-19-2019, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Sucker Punch would the way to go. Just doing the galley gaskets and oil pump will eat most of the $5K if you take it to a shop.

I would go with the Boundry Engineering gears and call it good if at all for now. Remember the engine may need to be pulled to do the oil gears so that time and labor will be about $1800. Also add to the list ATI super damper. If you want a bit more power get Z1 400 hp kit. It seems to be worth the money without going stupid.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

JARblue · 03-19-2019, 05:41 PM

Yeah ... the clutch and maintenance items are at least $4000 in parts and labor

Galley gasket should be done though, right? I mean 100K miles. If it fails on the track, the motor probably gets toasted.

03-19-2019, 09:19 AM	#1 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 44 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684441	Daily Driver No Longer Original Post: Ok, I finally got serious about getting the Z out on the track. I've collected some serious parts over the years, and I'm open to any input from an experienced perspective. My goal is for the car to be street legal with a heavy emphasis on track performance. And since I'm not quite to the point where I can trailer it to a location (because I don't currently have a vehicle to tow with), reliability is the name of the game at this time. So while I prefer to stay focused on track performance, I don't mind sacrificing some to make sure the car can drive home after track sessions. The vehicle has 100K daily driven miles. A lot of highway miles, but there are a number of hard driven miles in there as well. I change fluids frequently and never had any real mechanical issues other than a steering rack replaced under warranty at 80K, a broken fuel top hat, and a power steering leak fried my alternator. Parts List: ( Click to show/hide ) Performance Items ATI Super Damper Installed SuckerPunch Oil Pump Gears Installed Oil Pressure Gauge Ph3.5 Install Wideband AFR Gauge Ph3.5 Install CJM Baffled Oil Pan Installed FI 34 Row Oil Cooler Installed CZP Power Steering Cooler Installed ARC Coolant Reservoir w/ Catch Cans Installed Takeda Attack State-2 Pro Intake Installed FI non-resonated CF Exhaust Installed FI non-resonated Test Pipes Installed CJM Engine Mounts Installed Torque Solutions Transmission Mount Installed ZSpeed Stage 2 Clutch w/ 17 lb flywheel Installed ZSpeed CMAK Installed Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers (13K/10K) SPL Front Upper Control Arms Installed SPL PRO Front Endlinks Installed SPL PRO Rear Endlinks SPL Ti Rear Camber Arms SPL Ti Rear Traction Arms SPL Ti Rear Toe Arms Hotchkis Front Sway Bar Installed Wavetrac Differential Nismo Finned Differential Cover SPL Differential Bushings SPL Subframe Bushings CJM Billet Top Hat Installed CJM Road Race Pump Kit Installed CJM Fuel Pressure Gauge Installed Stillen Brake Duct Kit Carbotech XP10/8 Pads Maintenance Items Clutch 11/3/20 EPS Oil Galley Gaskets 08/12/20 OEM Power Steering Pump 08/12/20 OEM Water Pump 08/12/20 Valve Cover Gaskets 08/12/20 Spark Plug Tube Seals 08/12/20 Spark Plugs 05/04/22 Injectors Misc Items Driver Mod (w/ Instructor) Specialty Z tune Future Mods Track Wheels (Enkei 18s likely) Coolerworx Shifter Assembly Radiator (NOT CSF or miSHITmoto) Racing Brake 2-piece rear rotors Additional Notes I plan to keep the interior mostly stock (except now I'm looking at a CF dash). The only upgrade I'm considering at this time is a new driver seat. I plan to keep the stock 3 pt seat belt and airbag system. I plan to do aero mods down the road. They are taking a backseat to the current work, but rest assured I am aware of their importance. I expect a new thread will be in order at that point. UPDATE 05/2020 Oil pump gears are ready. Insurance is back on the car. UPDATE 06/2020 Rolled the Z out of the garage for the first time in over 18 months. A quick spit shine cleaned her up nicely. Towed the car to Austin Z Clinic with the most of the front end torn down to minimize labor costs. Phase 1 begins. ( Click to show/hide ) Phase 1: oil gallery gaskets, oil pump gears, oil pan, oil cooler, crank pulley, thermostat, water pump, PS pump, PS cooler, coolant reservoir, intake, engine mounts, front sway bar, and front endlinks. UPDATE 08/2020 Found some misc bits in the oil pan. Moving forward as planned. A good bit of the upper gallery gasket was missing when it was removed. Phase 1 is complete. Post #217 ( Click to show/hide ) UPDATE 11/2020 Hydraulics went out so Phase 2 gets a head start. Phase 2: dropped the car off at Austin Z Clinic for clutch kit, slave kit, transmission mount, and test pipes. Driving like a champ now UPDATE 12/2021 A Tundra backed into the Z while I was stopped at a light. It was at the body shop for 10 weeks for a new front bumper and hood. Not particularly happy with the shop communication or the finished product UPDATE 02/2022 Got the Z back from the body shop and promptly put it up on a curb. That was 6 more weeks in the body shop for another new front bumper, new LH fender, headlights and a wheel UPDATE 04/2022 The Z started knocking and smoking on the way home one day. Towed it to Austin Z Clinic. Had him replace all 4 accessory bearings, alternator, and spark plugs. Might as well move forward with Phase 3. Phase 3: fuel assembly top hat and fuel starve solution. UPDATE 05/2022 Phase 3 complete and the car is driving like a champ. Turns out the power steering fluid was seeping and dripping onto the alternator. Replace an o-ring but that doesn't appear to have solved the issue. Will be digging deeper. In the meantime, doing logs to update the tune with Eugene (Bythabay). AlWakRa, Eagle, 2011 Nismo#91 and 5 others like this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \| Last edited by JARblue; 05-12-2022 at 10:35 AM. Reason: updates

03-19-2019, 10:14 AM	#2 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	I don't see where you've listed a BP kit? JARblue, Jayhovah and JLarson like this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-19-2019, 10:32 AM	#5 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 44 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684441	I knew the first comment would be something about boost Unfortunately, that would really blow the budget. Staying NA for now 2011 Nismo#91, FPenvy, Hotrodz and 1 others like this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-19-2019, 11:20 AM	#8 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	Says the guy who never bought either, and then gave up and bought a different car. You need to hurry up and mod that GTR so you can keep up with a boosted Z. jwick, Rusty, Zoren 370 and 2 others like this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-19-2019, 05:14 PM	#12 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 44 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684441	Oil pump is tempting. But expensive. What do you recommend? Sucker Punch is $1300 new so that's a big chunk out of the budget. I am not interested in RJM. Boundary Engineering is another but I know nothing about them. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-19-2019, 05:21 PM	#13 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,323 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	Sucker Punch would the way to go. Just doing the galley gaskets and oil pump will eat most of the $5K if you take it to a shop. JARblue likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

03-19-2019, 05:41 PM	#15 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 44 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684441	Yeah ... the clutch and maintenance items are at least $4000 in parts and labor Galley gasket should be done though, right? I mean 100K miles. If it fails on the track, the motor probably gets toasted. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

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