I am planning solid all around. The only question is whether I do the subframe before the diff or at the same time. Trying to figure out a way to fit the diff in the initial budget, but it's going to be tough.

Just thoughts about belts. Needed? Worth it? https://zspeed.com/product/gates-pre...-v-drive-belt/

Also any recommendations on plugs? Should I just spend the extra for OEM over OEE? https://zspeed.com/product-category/...m-nissan-370z/

Nice performance list! But where's the safety stuff? Harness bar, harness, etc.

Just my opinion but here are a couple suggestions.
Unless your taking things apart already I don't think the engine and transmission mounts are really necessary same goes with the damper, oil pump, and coolant reservoir. Not that these don't provide any benefit but I don't see them as cost effective as some to these other things I didn't see. Such as power steering cooler, brake ducts, front splitter, and a good predictive lap timer with data logger would be the most beneficial. Lastly rotors, two piece rotors are nice but they are expensive and because they're lighter they run hotter; I would just use normal rotors. I use Frozen Rotors blanks, they are cheap and resist warping and crazing pretty well. I think the discount code here still works for 10% off.

Forgot, the diff cooler is more trouble then it's worth as well. The Wavetech will be a great upgrade but I would just get a finned diff cover and be done with it.

Stock safety for now. When I get a non-OEM seat, I will upgrade all necessary safety equipment at that time.
Transmission mount is too easy not to do it - I'll DIY.
If I decide to go ahead with the oil galley gasket, I will go ahead with the damper but not the oil pump. Still gathering input on that decision. Leaning towards yes.
Coolant flush is on the maintenance list, so that seems like a good opportunity to change out the reservoir. The real benefit is the oil catch can function.
Power steering cooler added to the list :tiphat:
Stillen brake duct kit already purchased
2-piece front rotors already installed - I like the weight savings and I picked up some Ti shims to help shield the heat.
Body is still stock - no plans to modify yet. Definitely will look into a front splitter.
The lap timers I was looking at are expensive. Won't really need one until I get some more seat time.
Finned diff cooler is an excellent suggestion as well :tiphat:

Don't waste your money on a finned diff cover. Get a diff cooler instead. I am kicking myself for buying mine. Waste of money. Didn't do chit.

:)
Just don't put off safety stuff too long. OEM stuff is designed for highway speeds not track speeds and they will make your drive better on the track too. With my harness and seat I don't move from side to side or have to brace myself while having a death grip on the wheel. Now I have much better control of the wheel and pedals. Replace your coolant with water and waterwetter.


If he's going with a geared diff, wavetech, it's overkill. On a clutch diff, OS giken, or vlsd it's very important.

If you are planning to install the SPL subframe bushing. That would be the time to install the rear upper control arms bushings from SPL. It's easier to install them with the subframe out. But you can still do them with the subframe installed too. Just takes longer if you decide to go full SPL.

Safety stuff is a must. Even if you don't do a seat you will need a helmet and a neck restraint. I you are not going to get a harness and harness bar, 4/6 point roll bar then the best neck restraint is the Simpson Hybrid.It is $1k but worth every dime. I personally would not do a harness bar and would get a 4 point roll bar. You can get one built and welded for about 1,200. A can't tell you how much a racing seat increase your experience and assist with your driver mod. It is very hard to carry speed through turns when you are holding on to the as an oh Jesus bar and trying to brace yourself with your legs instead of driving the car.

Like I said, racecar=rabbit hole. You got time on some stuff but don't wait on the safety stuff. As you get faster you will want and need many of things that been brought up unless you are content doing parade laps. I know you...you are one competitive guy so you will want do time attacks and time trials at a minimum.

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I know I need a racing seat... the stock seats suck. Helmet definitely. That neck restraint cost ... ouch. I'll just drive safely :rolleyes: :wtf2:

Just the safety portion of the IS track build was almost $4k. That was seats, cage, harnesses, etc.

Sometimes it's not about your driving. All it takes is oil or debris on track then you are into a wall or another car. The impact doesn't have to be much to snap your neck. The Simpson works with or without a harness and 1k is cheap insurance when it comes to being paralyzed or dying. I waited way to long to get mine, especially being boost.

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I want to still be able to drive the car on the street. So a full cage is out. But a partial cage and seats and harness are part of the plan. Just TBD.

I'm not being cavalier about it. I understand the risks. They are serious.

I know you are not and you no the risk I just want to state the obvious as there folks that are reading this thread that need to know! I'm also kind of found of you too LMAO!

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Where did you get the coolant reservoir from?

If you're going to do the oil galley gaskets - and you should - do the oil pump at the same time. You do NOT want to go back in there twice lol.

My dos centavos, since you're taking off everything out of the bay from bumper to the motor, figure out what you want to replace in that area and tackle it all at once. You dont want to be all up in the bay and be like "oh since I'm already here I should do xyz" and then have to wait for parts. Sounds like you're on the right track.

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