You can do clutch & cmak yourself,,,don’t be surprised if the rear main is seeping; with that mileage :ugh2:

Sorry Jar cant chime in..know nothing about cars but Mr. Zoren knows a lot on blow up stuff YES!

Always go with something with a blower as most recommends.:ugh2:

Regards,
Eric
Zoren’s Secretary

My rappelling harness is still secured at the entrance to the hole. I'm guessing when I'm as old as some of y'all I'll be in deep cause the rope broke.

Said the man without a Z. :rofl2:

Look at the bright side, you don't need to pay expensive shipping. Half of your budget will go on shipping if it was me :rofl2:



I would add bushings on your list, I know you mentioned all spl parts, but I think with your car age, it would be a good idea unless you plan to go solid.

I am planning solid all around. The only question is whether I do the subframe before the diff or at the same time. Trying to figure out a way to fit the diff in the initial budget, but it's going to be tough.

Just thoughts about belts. Needed? Worth it? https://zspeed.com/product/gates-pre...-v-drive-belt/

Also any recommendations on plugs? Should I just spend the extra for OEM over OEE? https://zspeed.com/product-category/...m-nissan-370z/

Nice performance list! But where's the safety stuff? Harness bar, harness, etc.

Just my opinion but here are a couple suggestions.
Unless your taking things apart already I don't think the engine and transmission mounts are really necessary same goes with the damper, oil pump, and coolant reservoir. Not that these don't provide any benefit but I don't see them as cost effective as some to these other things I didn't see. Such as power steering cooler, brake ducts, front splitter, and a good predictive lap timer with data logger would be the most beneficial. Lastly rotors, two piece rotors are nice but they are expensive and because they're lighter they run hotter; I would just use normal rotors. I use Frozen Rotors blanks, they are cheap and resist warping and crazing pretty well. I think the discount code here still works for 10% off.

Forgot, the diff cooler is more trouble then it's worth as well. The Wavetech will be a great upgrade but I would just get a finned diff cover and be done with it.

Stock safety for now. When I get a non-OEM seat, I will upgrade all necessary safety equipment at that time.
Transmission mount is too easy not to do it - I'll DIY.
If I decide to go ahead with the oil galley gasket, I will go ahead with the damper but not the oil pump. Still gathering input on that decision. Leaning towards yes.
Coolant flush is on the maintenance list, so that seems like a good opportunity to change out the reservoir. The real benefit is the oil catch can function.
Power steering cooler added to the list :tiphat:
Stillen brake duct kit already purchased
2-piece front rotors already installed - I like the weight savings and I picked up some Ti shims to help shield the heat.
Body is still stock - no plans to modify yet. Definitely will look into a front splitter.
The lap timers I was looking at are expensive. Won't really need one until I get some more seat time.
Finned diff cooler is an excellent suggestion as well :tiphat:

Don't waste your money on a finned diff cover. Get a diff cooler instead. I am kicking myself for buying mine. Waste of money. Didn't do chit.

:)
Just don't put off safety stuff too long. OEM stuff is designed for highway speeds not track speeds and they will make your drive better on the track too. With my harness and seat I don't move from side to side or have to brace myself while having a death grip on the wheel. Now I have much better control of the wheel and pedals. Replace your coolant with water and waterwetter.


If he's going with a geared diff, wavetech, it's overkill. On a clutch diff, OS giken, or vlsd it's very important.

If you are planning to install the SPL subframe bushing. That would be the time to install the rear upper control arms bushings from SPL. It's easier to install them with the subframe out. But you can still do them with the subframe installed too. Just takes longer if you decide to go full SPL.

Safety stuff is a must. Even if you don't do a seat you will need a helmet and a neck restraint. I you are not going to get a harness and harness bar, 4/6 point roll bar then the best neck restraint is the Simpson Hybrid.It is $1k but worth every dime. I personally would not do a harness bar and would get a 4 point roll bar. You can get one built and welded for about 1,200. A can't tell you how much a racing seat increase your experience and assist with your driver mod. It is very hard to carry speed through turns when you are holding on to the as an oh Jesus bar and trying to brace yourself with your legs instead of driving the car.

Like I said, racecar=rabbit hole. You got time on some stuff but don't wait on the safety stuff. As you get faster you will want and need many of things that been brought up unless you are content doing parade laps. I know you...you are one competitive guy so you will want do time attacks and time trials at a minimum.

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I know I need a racing seat... the stock seats suck. Helmet definitely. That neck restraint cost ... ouch. I'll just drive safely :rolleyes: :wtf2:

Just the safety portion of the IS track build was almost $4k. That was seats, cage, harnesses, etc.

Sometimes it's not about your driving. All it takes is oil or debris on track then you are into a wall or another car. The impact doesn't have to be much to snap your neck. The Simpson works with or without a harness and 1k is cheap insurance when it comes to being paralyzed or dying. I waited way to long to get mine, especially being boost.

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I want to still be able to drive the car on the street. So a full cage is out. But a partial cage and seats and harness are part of the plan. Just TBD.

I'm not being cavalier about it. I understand the risks. They are serious.

I know you are not and you no the risk I just want to state the obvious as there folks that are reading this thread that need to know! I'm also kind of found of you too LMAO!

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Where did you get the coolant reservoir from?

If you're going to do the oil galley gaskets - and you should - do the oil pump at the same time. You do NOT want to go back in there twice lol.

My dos centavos, since you're taking off everything out of the bay from bumper to the motor, figure out what you want to replace in that area and tackle it all at once. You dont want to be all up in the bay and be like "oh since I'm already here I should do xyz" and then have to wait for parts. Sounds like you're on the right track.

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So the SuckerPunch oil pump gears are on backorder. I'm contacting them to see exactly how long that backorder might be :ugh:

Like most of the parts I have already collected, I purchased the ARC coolant reservoir used from a fellow forum member.

Another Zoren. Oh my GOD!!!!!

You got time JarBlue. I didn't get a roll bar for my car. I want to do a local track day to see how my neck does first. If all goes well, I will consider the safety upgrades that I need. 5 point roll bar, Race Seat, 6 point harness, HANS device, etc.

Who said anything about autocross;) Enjoying your car is all that matters. I was just curious.

It was mentioned by others. No, I have not considered racing competitively. Out of my price range. If someone wants to sponsor me, sure lol.

Added a few thousand to the budget for the differential and SPL bits along with a few driving courses :driving:

Finances moving in the right direction. Massive parts order this week or next most likely :excited:

Gotta dump the Fit and pay off a bank loan I don't need anymore :tup:

So one of my nagging thoughts I haven't expressed in this thread is my intakes. I'm currently running the R2C intakes. I really like the filters, but I'm not happy with engine bay temps. The IATs are a bit high mainly due to the metal tubes even though the heat shield actually works pretty well.

I realize this won't be too much of a problem at speed on the track. Just trying to decide if it's worth swapping them to help out with the temps overall. I could easily pick up some post-MAF tubes to go with the stock intakes and R2C dry panel filters I have. Of course, the logical choice is to go for one of the long tubes (Stillen, Takeda, Z1, AEM). Probably rather not spend the money on the long tubes at this time. That's an easy mod I can DIY at anytime. Open to thoughts and suggestions.

Note that a vented hood is a consideration but probably not feasible for another year or so. That is, depending on how much further I fall down the rabbit hole after this first upcoming leap.

I went full bolt-on prior to turbo. The biggest power I picked up was from ditching stock cats. Recommend a HFC since you’ll be tracking and likely have noise limitations.

Well that's shitty. I'm not interested in HFCs. I guess I'll have to figure it out. I've got an extra resonated X-pipe that I can throw on the exhaust. Could get resonated TPs as well. Just don't want to.

For Austin Driveway, the only noise limitation is that the car has a muffler.

For COTA, I've heard it depends on the club you run with as to whether they enforce dB limitations. The expensive (e.g. Porsche) sessions tend to be more strict. The Miata guys DGAF.

A lot of tracks have posted 95 to 100 dB. Some don't enforce it tho.

I have the Z1 intakes and consistently log IATs of 7-10 degrees F above ambient outside temp... that's with an oil cooler sitting right below one of the filters. I'd say it's worth it.

As for the vented hood, what cost? All you need is a sawzall, 3D printer, and steady hands :D

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Intakes added to the list...

Vented hood is only $350 for Trackspec Vents. Time is the problem. Plus I don't want to overpay someone else to make sure it's done properly and up to par with my OCD. Fujimura CF hood would be nice, but it's $$$$ unless I can find one used locally.

Watched a DIY video on the galley gaskets. Very happy with my decision not to attempt that work :rofl2:

But I'm thinking a new water pump is a good idea. While we're in there.

And might as well replace my power steering pump that started whining after the dealer changed my steering rack and left the PS fluid reservoir empty :icon14:

You know where I live.

Empty reservoir will kill everything in the system. :shakes head:

I caught it 24 hours after I got the car back. Had only put about 15 miles on it since the repairs. Heard a very slight whine and located it with a mechanical stethoscope to confirm it was the PS pump. That was also when I noticed the reservoir was almost empty. Been driving on it for the last 25K miles without it getting any worse, so I think I got lucky.

The dealer was a complete âss about the whole thing and my service advisor had already quit by the time repairs were done. So I just let it go.

and THAT is why I learned to do everything on my own except install the CMAK. No one can be more OCD ab your car than you.

I had the dealer doing thousands of dollars worth of work (Nissan Corporate covered it out of warranty) when basically the entire airbag system shìt the bed at 80K miles. The steering rack was covered under a 3rd party warranty, so I had the dealer do all the work at the same time. It was purely a matter of convenience because I did not have the time to do the work myself at the time.

I never worked on my own car before owning the Z. But a couple years after purchase I had a ton of tools and was doing everything myself, including transmission drop and CSC replacement in my garage on jack stands. I had a lot more free time the first few years of ownership and taught myself a lot in that time. Believe me, if I could have avoided the dealership, I would have :twocents: