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Sent the Z to the shop yesterday for the work in the engine bay (mostly behind the front timing cover). Hoping to have it ready for the 4th of July meetup at Madwi's :driving:
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Built my own splitter out of 6m alumalite. Sticks out 5 inches from end of Stillen bumper. I reinforced it with connections to the crash bar and frame, and built the rods out of 10 32 threaded rods. I can stand on it and I’m 225 lbs. Won’t win any beauty contests, but this car never sees the street. Tried it out at Sebring last weekend and it did great. I could feel the grip on high speed corners. Starts at 3 inches off the ground and barely clears the track on heavy cornering.
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Contemplating having the valve cover gaskets replaced while work is being done. What is this talk I see of the radiator being in the way? :icon14: Its not coming out for the front timing cover work. How in the hell is it in the way of the valve cover bolts?
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Anyone have any information on the valve covers? I found some that appear to have the spark plug tube seals individually serviceable. Wondering if mine are that way. Or if they are an older version with the spark plug seals as part of the cover itself. Might have to go by the shop and do some more dismantling.
After some research and verifying on my 2011, it seems that the valve cover design with separate valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals came online for vehicles manufactured after 01/2011. My understanding is the previous design had integrated spark plug o-rings with the valve cover gasket. Added to the parts list. |
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Before and after big brake addition. Stop Tech Trophy R’s. Can’t wait to get them on the track in a few weeks.:eekdance::eekdance:
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I am glad I found this thread and look forward to watching your progress! I am actually going through a similar process of building the car to be more bullet proof on the track.
One question I did have was regarding the oil pump and oil pump gears. I plan on purchasing the Boundary Engineering pump from Z1 with the billet pump cover. There are options to include shims to increase the oil pressure anywhere from +10psi to +30psi. Is this something you did as well? Or did you not find it necessary? I understand that some of the higher HP or forced induction applications my need to run higher oil pressure. Is there a need to run higher pressures for track applications with basic bolt ons? Are there any downsides to running the higher oil pressures if it is overkill for the application? |
Thanks :tiphat:
I just purchased the SuckerPunch oil pump gears. I was not aware of any shims to adjust oil pressure. That being said, as an NA car, I don't see the need. The car runs fine with the stock oil pressure, so I see no reason to change it. Someone would have to really sell me on that idea with proven data before I would even consider it :twocents: |
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http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ure-gauge.html The oem pump will product over a 100 psi. |
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This is pretty much all of the gasket that was left from the upper oil gallery :ugh:
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Wow! Did you show any warning signs that the gallery gaskets were going out? How many miles on the car currently?
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105K miles currently as stated in the OP. No warning signs - car has always driven great. Although no oil pressure gauge to monitor either. I have one that will be going on the car.
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Well, I guess I will be putting a pressure gauge in. I've been reading through the threads online, the tap itself looks like a piece of cake to install, but deciding on a gauge and wiring it thru the interior... lots of swearing going to happen. I wonder if I even have a gallery gasket left lmao... (/s)
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