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JARblue 03-22-2020 05:29 AM

I've got the ARC coolant tank with built-in catch cans, which give different instructions for running the hoses than other catch can setups. Planning to hook up the ARC hoses as designed and possibly add another set of catch cans using the front PCV valve on the rocker panel and upper intake manifold front ports. Shouldn't be any problems with running both setups, right?

JARblue 05-08-2020 01:50 PM

The Fast Intentions oil cooler that I have uses -8 AN fittings. Worth swapping out for -10 AN fittings? On an N/A car?

abm89 05-08-2020 02:10 PM

I don't think so to be honest. I'm running a 34 row with 8AN and i can't get the car up to temperature unless it's 85F+

JARblue 05-08-2020 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abm89 (Post 3932681)
I don't think so to be honest. I'm running a 34 row and i can't get the car up to temperature unless it's 85F+

It's going to see a lot of 85F+ weather :driving:

I'm not planning to be like Hotrodz who parks his car in the summer LOL

abm89 05-08-2020 02:13 PM

I think for anyone to know if you're benefiting from larger AN fittings, you'd have to compare the rate of flow through the core with both sets and see if it makes a huge difference. On top of that, it's dependent on how much oil your pump can push through.

JARblue 05-08-2020 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abm89 (Post 3932683)
I think for anyone to know if you're benefiting from larger AN fittings, you'd have to compare the rate of flow through the core with bot sets and see if it makes a huge difference. On top of that, it's dependent on how much oil your pump an push through.

My SuckerPunch oil pump gears just arrived in the mail on Weds. I don't know if the flow is increased by them though.

Hotrodz 05-09-2020 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3932682)
It's going to see a lot of 85F+ weather :driving:

I'm not planning to be like Hotrodz who parks his car in the summer LOL

Actually my car runs fine on the highway in the summer, it runs hot at the track because most of the tracks I run are short so no time to get enough air to cool and the asphalt will be 160* plus so heat is problem for all track cars. It a choice I make because I can track my car every month of the year if I want and in extreme hot temperatures tires, brakes, and fluids are tortured so more cost on consumables.

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Hotrodz 05-09-2020 10:41 AM

I don't run a sandwich plate either because it is not necessary. I just make sure I let the car warm up in the cool time of the year.

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Rusty 05-09-2020 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 3932859)
I don't run a sandwich plate either because it is not necessary. I just make sure I let the car warm up in the cool time of the year.

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Well.......you live 2 blocks from Hell in the summer. So why need a thermostatic plate. Your oil is already cooking just sitting on the pavement. :rofl2:

AlWakRa 05-09-2020 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3932682)
It's going to see a lot of 85F+ weather :driving:

I'm not planning to be like Hotrodz who parks his car in the summer LOL

I don't seems to pass 200-210F when I drive in street with FI oil cooler on summer, 85+ easily.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3932875)
Well.......you live 2 blocks from Hell in the summer. So why need a thermostatic plate. Your oil is already cooking just sitting on the pavement. :rofl2:

I have thermostatic sandwich plate on my z and it helps, my rsx doesn't have and it just drops temps during the outlap :rofl2:, I need to keep the revs too high to keep it warm, but I think the weather during the season is the reason, lets say it is between 65-90F. Anyway, for street driving, the car needs a thermostatic one.

Rusty 05-09-2020 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlWakRa (Post 3932985)
I don't seems to pass 200-210F when I drive in street with FI oil cooler on summer, 85+ easily.




I have thermostatic sandwich plate on my z and it helps, my rsx doesn't have and it just drops temps during the outlap :rofl2:, I need to keep the revs too high to keep it warm, but I think the weather during the season is the reason, lets say it is between 65-90F. Anyway, for street driving, the car needs a thermostatic one.

Where Hotrodz is at. You can fry eggs in the shade during summer. It's over 100F.

Hotrodz 05-09-2020 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlWakRa (Post 3932985)
I don't seems to pass 200-210F when I drive in street with FI oil cooler on summer, 85+ easily.









I have thermostatic sandwich plate on my z and it helps, my rsx doesn't have and it just drops temps during the outlap :rofl2:, I need to keep the revs too high to keep it warm, but I think the weather during the season is the reason, lets say it is between 65-90F. Anyway, for street driving, the car needs a thermostatic one.

The hood vents help lower temps quickly on cool down lap. By the time I get back to the paddock my temps are pretty close to normal. I the winter she runs on the cool side but not out of the safe zone without blocking the oil cooler but that is always an option.

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abm89 05-09-2020 11:12 PM

Oh jeez. I just realized I cannot type for ****.

Anyway, I've got a stillen oil cooler kit, with a setrab 34 row core i bought recently. with my vented hood, I don't go above 180F when driving normally. maybe 190 or 200 if im stuck in traffic. I'll get more data again in the summer but it's honestly overkill for my setup, which is fine.


Apparently Oil temps are a common problem with these newer cars (especially boosted ones). My WRX will imp mode once it gets to 225F. My friend's A90 Supra will limp mode after a few laps as well.

AlWakRa 05-09-2020 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3932995)
Where Hotrodz is at. You can fry eggs in the shade during summer. It's over 100F.

In summer over here, it reaches 120F or higher :rofl2: my point is, without thermostats the car will take a long time to reach optimal temps when the weather is cooler, Hotrodz tt is a good heater so he doesn't need thermostats :p

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 3933029)
The hood vents help lower temps quickly on cool down lap. By the time I get back to the paddock my temps are pretty close to normal. I the winter she runs on the cool side but not out of the safe zone without blocking the oil cooler but that is always an option.

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Same experience with my z in track, but it can reach 250F during session even in cooler weather, on the other hand, my dc5 stays at 195F on track but if I slowed down it get quickly cooler, without even installing any vents, but I installed the biggest cooler I can get.

Hotrodz 05-10-2020 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlWakRa (Post 3933056)
In summer over here, it reaches 120F or higher :rofl2: my point is, without thermostats the car will take a long time to reach optimal temps when the weather is cooler, Hotrodz tt is a good heater so he doesn't need thermostats :p







Same experience with my z in track, but it can reach 250F during session even in cooler weather, on the other hand, my dc5 stays at 195F on track but if I slowed down it get quickly cooler, without even installing any vents, but I installed the biggest cooler I can get.

Agreed, for the most part. You really can't compare to other cars. I mean before I was tracking I drove it a couple day in Phoenix traffic and temps were 125 or so and even with the AC on it only hit 135. The engine bay on the Z just doesn't allow the motor to cool in extreme use. Me and my brother have run our Miata in back to back sessions in 90* without any heating issue but there is a ton of open space around that little four banger and we don't have an oil cooler.

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