Camber setting - Road Race
 

For those of you who go to the track and road-race...

How much camber are you running in front, with proper tire wear that is.
- OEM is 0.7 deg

:driving:

Good question. I am going to try -1.2 to -1.5 to start with when I install my coilovers. I have read where some folks run -2.0.

I daily drive mostly, do HPDE from time to time, and autocross a lot. Running -2.8 front -1.8 rear. I would like to eventually get into road racing and don't see myself changing much from -2.5 to -2.8 front camber I think.

Front: -2.75 Camber; +.05 Toe with Total Toe = +.12

Rear: -2.5 Camber; +.15 Toe with Total Toe = +.35

SPL Adjustable Front Arms.

Mostly autox here but I run -3.0 up front and -1.5 in the rear.

Tyre and tyre construction dependent.

Dunlop D21 slicks in 265/655R18 are stiff construction by max neg is ~3 deg neg camber front and half that in the rear.

The D21 290/675R18 is a taller sidewall and allows contact patch distortion and you'll get max grip above -3 deg

The D21 is harder and the D31 is softer and the D31 will not tolerate as much neg without excessive inside shoulder wear.

The simple answer is to use a tyre temp (probe) to assess how much heat is induced with camber and decide on that basis.

Camber (and toe) settings require testing to get right.

Things to consider:

• I road race and daily drive
• Summer = PSS
• Tires = Toyo R888

Yes it's very specific... figured i'd ask :hello:

I run re11s for my street use on Nismo wheel and r888 295 squar on 18x10.5 rims. I can't remember toe settings off the top of my head but my camber is -2.6 front and -2.0 rear. After consulting with a few track day folks they said you need to run toyo's with higher psi as they will get squirrely on you wear badly. They say to aim for a hot temp of 40 to 42 psi. I ran this past weekend with 35 psi front and 33 rear and when I I took the temp post session they were 40 psi the tires showed no unusual wear.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

-3.2 front with a 315, 1.7 rear w/315

Zack

So the track setup is going to be quite different to the road setup. Track setup will scrub DD tyres in < 1000kms main becuase of excessive camber and a bit of toe-out.

Bottom line is give away R-Spec tyre drip but tracking with DD set up OR wear out DD tyres with DD setup OR get your favorite alignment shop to set up for track on Friday and reset on Monday.

Its the only way to resolve the dichotomy.

Failing that, take to most acceptable compromise ... slightly slower on track or wear out DD tyres in .25 to .5 of expected life.

-2.7 and 7 degrees of caster.
Obviously dependent on tires and other factors.

-3.8-4 or bust.

You have a problem. It depends on how much you track and DD. Set for one and kill the other one. Like BGTV8 said. Adjust alignment on Friday for track, adjust it again on Monday for DD. How much tire life you want? My settings are -2 camber, +7 caster, a hair toe in. Rear -1.75, and toe a hair in. But I DD and track with PSS. If I was tracking with R-tires. My front camber would be -3. And that would kill the tires on the street. Be a lot less street driving. Then that would take the fun out of the Z.