Drag Racing Coilovers ...

Z&I · 10-02-2016, 02:56 PM

Looking to Launch

Has anybody tried these puppies out ?

D-NI-04-DG - D2 Coilovers - DRAG Series
D-NI-04-DG - D2 Coilovers - DRAG Series - Performance Auto Parts - Car and Truck Accessories | JM Auto Racing - Intensify Your Ride!

KSport Version part# CNS340-DR DR Drag Race Coilovers
https://www.octanemotorsports.com/20...-p-148741.html

They are presented as Drag Racing specific...

Z&I · 10-03-2016, 01:13 AM

Found another one from BLOX racing:

BLOX RACING Full Bodied Adjustable Coilover System :: Drag Pro Series :: EG/DC, EK

This one has a nifty little write up on their Test Mule [the IPG All Motor Civic] ... showing actual time slips - and claiming consistent improvements in their 60' times by about .05 sec ___ and a few more than .15 in the 1/4.

http://www.bloxracing.com/data-sheet...lWorldTest.pdf

This link is for the 370Z coilovers:
Full Bodied Adjustable Coilover System :: Drag Pro Series :: EG/DC, EK

Got my attention ....

YzGyz · 10-08-2016, 02:40 AM

I was wondering the same thing. I know I have the power to potentially make mid/high 11's. But the stock Nismo IRS is definably not letting all the power Shen. She squats top much and I loose lots of tire contact patch. My 305 nt05r has pretty much untouched outside edges but the inside is worn evenly. I could of Dave some $$ buying a smaller tire since I'm not using all the real estate. I'm thinking any decent adjustment coilovers with the ability to adjust compression and rebound rate will work wonders once diled in.

YzGyz

Z&I · 10-08-2016, 08:57 PM

Hey YzGyz ... Good to hear from you !

I'll be getting my car back very soon ... it's at AAM Competition in Maryland.
They are now doing the E85 phase of the flex-fuel tune...and I'm now over 700whp.
Last time down the track it was making 483 rwhp and even with that it was wanting to spin the tires on launch...[6MT with OS Giken Twin Disc Clutch]
Had changed over to the Mickey Thompson DRII's [19"] and that cured the wheel hop and did improve my 1/4 time considerably.

I've since been studying up and have already done some proven traditional mods to improve traction off the line:

Smaller Wheels [17"] and Taller Tires to start...
Installed Racing Brake Small Racing Calipers to fit the wheels.

M/T ET Street R 305/45-17
These fatty tires should really hook - just need the suspension to cooperate.

EcuTek Launch Control and Traction Control

I've also set the rear camber to '0' that will help with the contact patch when it squats...[also will correct the uneven tire wear on the inside as well]
Now looking in to those Drag Racing Coilovers to deal with the squat.

Here's a post by PHUNK a few years back regarding his approach to leaving better:
Theres 2 ways to get this car to hook the best its reasonably going to.

The BEST and proper way, is probably more commitment to drag racing than you are looking for. Small rear brakes, like the 350z non brembo in the rear, will allow a 15" wheel. Use a proper drag slick. Run the softest suspension you can, which means all stock. Align the car to remove as much negative camber as you can. This is the best you can do. And it will do pretty good.

The next best you can do is (when you wont give up your rear brakes)... run the widest and stickiest tire you can, on the smallest diameter wheel you can. This means 305-315 drag radials on an 18" wheel. Adjust your coilover height in the rear back to stock height. This will straighten your control arms back out and reduce your compression camber curve. Align the car to remove as much negative camber as you can (if you dont, all that extra width is meaningless because its not pressing into the ground). Set your suspension as STIFF as you can to prevent as much rear squat as possible. Rear squat is your biggest enemy in this car if you do not have a smushy true drag tire. This should be able to get you 1.9 60's and traction through most of second. Run low pressure in the tires... 18-20 or try a few spots to see what your particular tire likes. You might even get into the 1.8s like this.

The IRS in the 370z is particularly terrible for drag racing and/or hooking up high power. Even the slightest compression in the rear causes extreme camber. This is why you only want squat if you have a tire that is going to severely deform to accomodate this. Your street drag radials will have none of that, and you will be ice skating on the inside corners of your tread any time the car squats. This is my current status.

Hopefully by summer I will have some products finished that adjust the compression camber curve and our Z's on big tires can act like it.

A final good luck wish from PHUNK:
Good luck and try and get us some 10 second time slips. You have the power,
just gotta get it out of the hole. I know EXACTLY what you are going thru.
__________________________________________________ _______________

I'm excited about getting the car back and will have to 'learn how' to drive it now that it has been extensively modded ...

cv129 · 10-08-2016, 10:08 PM

Curious...

If your car is dedicated for drag racing, would it be a possible idea to run a longer rear spring (with a height adjustable adapter if needed) to bump your rear height a little, resulting in positive camber, and therefore settling to close to 0 camber while accelerating?

Or just adjust static camber to positive, and settle to closer to 0 while accelerating?

Z&I · 10-08-2016, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cv129

Curious...

If your car is dedicated for drag racing, would it be a possible idea to run a longer rear spring (with a height adjustable adapter if needed) to bump your rear height a little, resulting in positive camber, and therefore settling to close to 0 camber while accelerating?

Or just adjust static camber to positive, and settle to closer to 0 while accelerating?

Thanks for the input - it is thought provoking,

The car is still Street/Strip ... and will have to see how it all settles out when I get it back from the shop.
Just enough time left for a few passes at the track before I have to winter it in again.
Will evaluate and see where I need and want to go with it.

Right now it's at '0' camber on stock suspension via camber kit...which helped.
I had been getting a pretty good contact patch with the 19" and M/T DRII's, just a lot of squat.

Have now changed to 17" with 305/45-17 M/T ET Street R's.

Aside from considering the stiffer Drag Coilovers - The direction I am going for now is a slightly higher front [rather than higher rear] for [hopefully] better weight transfer.

Still might have a little time to do some experimenting with the dedicated Drag Racing coilovers but was hoping that someone else had already blazed the trail.

YzGyz · 10-09-2016, 05:04 PM

I would not make the back end higher in hopes to get better drag times. I think it would mean you will have an even angle of squat on acceleration. The weight VB of the car will transfer most of its weight to the rear as you launch and then level out as u power down the strip. This transfer is a 2x blade as it allows the car to put powerboe ground. On the other hand, our IRS really kills the tire contact patch and as it cambers more - as it squats. You loose so much tire contact patch that we loose a bunch of traction.

What you want for our car IMO is as stiff of a rear as you can so we minimal - camber as the weight shifts to the back. The front should be able to rise and compress in a equal and smooth fashion as to allow the car to b level out in one smooth action as to not disrupt the weight transfer from the back wheel.

Just think about it some. Stomp on gas weight transfers to the back. If the front is smooth and bounces up and down, with ever time your head dips weight is transfers back to the front (this means rear just lost lots of traction). Ever time the head rises again on the bounce, the rear suddenly gets more traction and blast off again lifting the front again and the cycle continues.

I have done lots of research on drag racing over the last few months. All this info is just from my own research which I have yet to test. I really don't want to spend the $$ on adjustable coilovers just for 1/2 a second.

Anyhow, how I would adjust/dial in the suspension roughly is by doing burn outs as I don't have a long track readily available to test and tune. I would do a quick burn out and then inspect the rubber on n the road. First Try to adjust the front for a nice steady and controllable rise and fall. then try to get the back burnt rubber to be as even on the inside and outside as possible. Yes it's not perfect or the ideal was to set up a racing setup but it should work, at least in my head.

I did the cheapest thing as zeroed out everything on my car, camber, toe on all 4 corners and runs nt05r drag radials. I do ok but still upset that im far from 11's with all the $ already spent.

I'm looking to buy a fishing boat so that's why I have not upgraded my suspension, get an LSD and ecutec.

Me likes fishing too and gotten into it again.

YzGyz

Z&I · 10-09-2016, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YzGyz

I would not make the back end higher in hopes to get better drag times. I think it would mean you will have an even angle of squat on acceleration. The weight VB of the car will transfer most of its weight to the rear as you launch and then level out as u power down the strip. This transfer is a 2x blade as it allows the car to put power to the ground. On the other hand, our IRS really kills the tire contact patch and as it cambers more - as it squats. You loose so much tire contact patch that we loose a bunch of traction.

What you want for our car IMO is as stiff of a rear as you can so we minimal - camber as the weight shifts to the back. The front should be able to rise and compress in a equal and smooth fashion as to allow the car to b level out in one smooth action as to not disrupt the weight transfer from the back wheel.

Just think about it some. Stomp on gas weight transfers to the back. If the front is smooth and bounces up and down, with ever time your head dips weight is transfers back to the front (this means rear just lost lots of traction). Ever time the head rises again on the bounce, the rear suddenly gets more traction and blast off again lifting the front again and the cycle continues.

I have done lots of research on drag racing over the last few months. All this info is just from my own research which I have yet to test. I really don't want to spend the $$ on adjustable coilovers just for 1/2 a second.

Anyhow, how I would adjust/dial in the suspension roughly is by doing burn outs as I don't have a long track readily available to test and tune. I would do a quick burn out and then inspect the rubber on n the road. First Try to adjust the front for a nice steady and controllable rise and fall. then try to get the back burnt rubber to be as even on the inside and outside as possible. Yes it's not perfect or the ideal was to set up a racing setup but it should work, at least in my head.

I did the cheapest thing as zeroed out everything on my car, camber, toe on all 4 corners and runs nt05r drag radials. I do ok but still upset that im far from 11's with all the $ already spent.

I'm looking to buy a fishing boat so that's why I have not upgraded my suspension, get an LSD and ecutec.

Me likes fishing too and gotten into it again.

YzGyz

YzGyz...
Looks like you have been doing a ton of research on the subject - and I agree with a lot of what you have mentioned here.

Our cars don't really lift the front enough to bounce [not yet at least with stock suspension] this is due to the IRS and the squat.
Your conclusion here regarding the shift of weight transfer and loss of traction and acceleration in this instance is spot on though.

I also am limited in doing 'test hits' to dial in the launch - RPM, Traction Control [EcuTEk], etc.
No real safe out of the way place to do it since I live in a congested metropolitan area.

I can get away with one test maybe, but then have to keep moving on.
I did try doing short burn outs with my buddy watching from behind...observing the amount of squat and the contact patch.
The 19" M/T's did a fair job of countering the squat at '0' camber during the burn outs.

The LSD and the EcuTek would help you towards your goal of getting in to the 11's.

I think the Drag Racing Coilovers would help as well.

1/2 second IS a lot of time when it comes down to it at the Drag Strip.

Good luck on your Fishing Boat ...lol... [seems that Fish are a lot smarter than me, never had any luck at all catching them

]

YzGyz · 10-10-2016, 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z&I

YzGyz...
Looks like you have been doing a ton of research on the subject - and I agree with a lot of what you have mentioned here.

Our cars don't really lift the front enough to bounce [not yet at least with stock suspension] this is due to the IRS and the squat.
Your conclusion here regarding the shift of weight transfer and loss of traction and acceleration in this instance is spot on though.

I also am limited in doing 'test hits' to dial in the launch - RPM, Traction Control [EcuTEk], etc.
No real safe out of the way place to do it since I live in a congested metropolitan area.

I can get away with one test maybe, but then have to keep moving on.
I did try doing short burn outs with my buddy watching from behind...observing the amount of squat and the contact patch.
The 19" M/T's did a fair job of countering the squat at '0' camber during the burn outs.

The LSD and the EcuTek would help you towards your goal of getting in to the 11's.

I think the Drag Racing Coilovers would help as well.

1/2 second IS a lot of time when it comes down to it at the Drag Strip.

Good luck on your Fishing Boat ...lol... [seems that Fish are a lot smarter than me, never had any luck at all catching them

]

Rep for fellow racer looking for better times.

The front end does lift some. Not as much as other cars but it does. I think she will lift more as the back end gets more traction and really launches her out the hole.

I also forgot to mention that I run stock tires in the front and NT05r at the track.

I pump up the front tires to 40 psi to help shift some of the weight to the back (it's minimal but I believe it helps some). The back drag radials are dropped anywhere from 25-20 psi while hot. I swap my rears out at home on the lift then drive to the drag strip on them. By the time I get there and pass Tech, they have long been warmed. I drop the rear psi then.

Fishing is fun with or without catching fish. You got to think of it in a different perspective that's all. I see it as going to the local food joint like a streak house and ordering a steak and beer. You have a good time and enjoy the food you PAID for. This is equivalent of going out fishing. You go and enjoy the relaxing and comradely of other fishers BS of catches from past outing. Now back to the eatery to continue with my analogy. So you're at the food joint and ready to order that steak and beer. You're thinking "life's good" as your preparing to slop up all the food you will get when your waitress comes. The only thing is she is Killer HOT!! So not you damn good meal comes with damn good scenery and a nice smile.

Well that hottie that happen to be there is the equivalent of cathing a fish while out fishing. You were already out having a chillaxing time but then BAM!! you got something on the line, instant action!

So i guess it's just a different way of catching fish? Land fish and water fish?

Anyhoo, back on track. When you get everything set up, report back with the results both good and bad. It would be nice to know if all the $$is worth the upgrade for my goal of 11's

YzGyz

Z&I · 10-10-2016, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YzGyz

Rep for fellow racer looking for better times.

The front end does lift some. Not as much as other cars but it does. I think she will lift more as the back end gets more traction and really launches her out the hole.

I also forgot to mention that I run stock tires in the front and NT05r at the track.

I pump up the front tires to 40 psi to help shift some of the weight to the back (it's minimal but I believe it helps some). The back drag radials are dropped anywhere from 25-20 psi while hot. I swap my rears out at home on the lift then drive to the drag strip on them. By the time I get there and pass Tech, they have long been warmed. I drop the rear psi then.

YzGyz

You're right ... the front does lift a little but not quite enough to be much of a factor - for now that is.
At the track I do the same - pumping up the front tire pressure to 40 and the rears down to 24.

1st time back at the track [hopefully within the next couple of weeks] I'll be doing some test passes.
Gotta check with the tech to see what the track policy is on Test and Tune if I go under 11.5 __
Don't want to get banned for the day and sent home to get more safety modifications done.

Depending on the policy I might not be able to make a full pass, but I'm thinking the car should get in to the 10's.

Now about that fishing tale ... once got stuck in an off shore storm ... we were out there being bounced around for 8 hours, seas were really heavy and the boat nearly rolled over twice.

I was so seasick that I couldn't move and one of the guys held me in place by my belt so I wouldn't get washed overboard.
When we got back to port I couldn't walk straight and had to go to the emergency room once I got home.

They gave me a shot of something that knocked me out for over 24 hours.
Missed work the next day - in fact I didn't remember anything at all until Tuesday when I woke up.

My equilibrium was wacky for a few months afterwards and had a hard time walking down a hallway without bumping in to the walls.

Didn't catch any fish - and no pretty waitresses either !!!
I was a scuba diver for a number of years - and I enjoy fish in their natural habitat :-)

Will post track results ...

Z&I · 10-16-2016, 12:07 AM

Did some more research on the coilovers and found mention of some other brands on one of the Honda sites:
AMR
PIC
STRANGE
Will look in to them as well ...

Did go down to AAM in Maryland to check on the car and pay on the bill [ouch]
Got to test drive it a little and got some verbal numbers too ...
They are sending me the Dyno Graph next week...hopefully that is.
SEMA is coming up and they are getting ready to travel
__________________________________________________ _________

802 whp and 808 wtq ___ yes, 802 whp and 808 wtq on E85
They could've gone more but reached the limits of the 1300 ID injectors.

It's a freakin' monster
__________________________________________________ _________

It's still down there with a few more odds and ends needing to be tweaked.
Soon ...

... Zoom

MAMotorsports · 10-17-2016, 10:56 AM

Most of the brands you have mentioned in this thread that advertise a "Drag" coil do nothing more than add a softer rear spring. With your power levels you are better off having a set built to your specifications (Or recommendations)

We have worked with Stance on a few drag specific set ups, if you are interested or have any questions feel free to shoot me a PM.

Elmo370z · 10-17-2016, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z&I

Did some more research on the coilovers and found mention of some other brands on one of the Honda sites:
AMR
PIC
STRANGE
Will look in to them as well ...

Did go down to AAM in Maryland to check on the car and pay on the bill [ouch]
Got to test drive it a little and got some verbal numbers too ...
They are sending me the Dyno Graph next week...hopefully that is.
SEMA is coming up and they are getting ready to travel
__________________________________________________ _________

802 whp and 808 wtq ___ yes, 802 whp and 808 wtq on E85
They could've gone more but reached the limits of the 1300 ID injectors.

It's a freakin' monster
__________________________________________________ _________

It's still down there with a few more odds and ends needing to be tweaked.
Soon ...

... Zoom

Sounds about right my buddy has the same.injectors and made 790. Good luck with the build

Z&I · 10-17-2016, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAMotorsports

Most of the brands you have mentioned in this thread that advertise a "Drag" coil do nothing more than add a softer rear spring. With your power levels you are better off having a set built to your specifications (Or recommendations)

We have worked with Stance on a few drag specific set ups, if you are interested or have any questions feel free to shoot me a PM.

PM Sent

Z&I · 10-26-2016, 06:18 PM

All ready to P/U the car on Tuesday - but was informed of a problem that needs attention - so I wasn't able to.
What had been a slightly higher than usual crank case pressure level earlier that wasn't a concern has increased - and now needs to be diagnosed and fixed.
Doesn't look like I'll be at the track this season.
Bummed in N.J.

10-02-2016, 02:56 PM	#1 (permalink)
Z&I Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 410 Drives: '09 370z 6MT FI Rep Power: 12	Drag Racing Coilovers ... Looking to Launch Has anybody tried these puppies out ? D-NI-04-DG - D2 Coilovers - DRAG Series D-NI-04-DG - D2 Coilovers - DRAG Series - Performance Auto Parts - Car and Truck Accessories \| JM Auto Racing - Intensify Your Ride! KSport Version part# CNS340-DR DR Drag Race Coilovers https://www.octanemotorsports.com/20...-p-148741.html They are presented as Drag Racing specific... __________________ . BB

10-03-2016, 01:13 AM	#2 (permalink)
Z&I Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 410 Drives: '09 370z 6MT FI Rep Power: 12	Found another one from BLOX racing: BLOX RACING Full Bodied Adjustable Coilover System :: Drag Pro Series :: EG/DC, EK This one has a nifty little write up on their Test Mule [the IPG All Motor Civic] ... showing actual time slips - and claiming consistent improvements in their 60' times by about .05 sec ___ and a few more than .15 in the 1/4. http://www.bloxracing.com/data-sheet...lWorldTest.pdf This link is for the 370Z coilovers: Full Bodied Adjustable Coilover System :: Drag Pro Series :: EG/DC, EK Got my attention .... __________________ . BB Last edited by Z&I; 10-08-2016 at 10:35 PM.

10-08-2016, 02:40 AM	#3 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 63	I was wondering the same thing. I know I have the power to potentially make mid/high 11's. But the stock Nismo IRS is definably not letting all the power Shen. She squats top much and I loose lots of tire contact patch. My 305 nt05r has pretty much untouched outside edges but the inside is worn evenly. I could of Dave some $$ buying a smaller tire since I'm not using all the real estate. I'm thinking any decent adjustment coilovers with the ability to adjust compression and rebound rate will work wonders once diled in. YzGyz __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz

10-08-2016, 08:57 PM	#4 (permalink)
Z&I Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 410 Drives: '09 370z 6MT FI Rep Power: 12	Hey YzGyz ... Good to hear from you ! I'll be getting my car back very soon ... it's at AAM Competition in Maryland. They are now doing the E85 phase of the flex-fuel tune...and I'm now over 700whp. Last time down the track it was making 483 rwhp and even with that it was wanting to spin the tires on launch...[6MT with OS Giken Twin Disc Clutch] Had changed over to the Mickey Thompson DRII's [19"] and that cured the wheel hop and did improve my 1/4 time considerably. I've since been studying up and have already done some proven traditional mods to improve traction off the line: Smaller Wheels [17"] and Taller Tires to start... Installed Racing Brake Small Racing Calipers to fit the wheels. M/T ET Street R 305/45-17 These fatty tires should really hook - just need the suspension to cooperate. EcuTek Launch Control and Traction Control I've also set the rear camber to '0' that will help with the contact patch when it squats...[also will correct the uneven tire wear on the inside as well] Now looking in to those Drag Racing Coilovers to deal with the squat. Here's a post by PHUNK a few years back regarding his approach to leaving better: Theres 2 ways to get this car to hook the best its reasonably going to. The BEST and proper way, is probably more commitment to drag racing than you are looking for. Small rear brakes, like the 350z non brembo in the rear, will allow a 15" wheel. Use a proper drag slick. Run the softest suspension you can, which means all stock. Align the car to remove as much negative camber as you can. This is the best you can do. And it will do pretty good. The next best you can do is (when you wont give up your rear brakes)... run the widest and stickiest tire you can, on the smallest diameter wheel you can. This means 305-315 drag radials on an 18" wheel. Adjust your coilover height in the rear back to stock height. This will straighten your control arms back out and reduce your compression camber curve. Align the car to remove as much negative camber as you can (if you dont, all that extra width is meaningless because its not pressing into the ground). Set your suspension as STIFF as you can to prevent as much rear squat as possible. Rear squat is your biggest enemy in this car if you do not have a smushy true drag tire. This should be able to get you 1.9 60's and traction through most of second. Run low pressure in the tires... 18-20 or try a few spots to see what your particular tire likes. You might even get into the 1.8s like this. The IRS in the 370z is particularly terrible for drag racing and/or hooking up high power. Even the slightest compression in the rear causes extreme camber. This is why you only want squat if you have a tire that is going to severely deform to accomodate this. Your street drag radials will have none of that, and you will be ice skating on the inside corners of your tread any time the car squats. This is my current status. Hopefully by summer I will have some products finished that adjust the compression camber curve and our Z's on big tires can act like it. A final good luck wish from PHUNK: Good luck and try and get us some 10 second time slips. You have the power, just gotta get it out of the hole. I know EXACTLY what you are going thru. __________________________________________________ _______________ I'm excited about getting the car back and will have to 'learn how' to drive it now that it has been extensively modded ... __________________ . BB Last edited by Z&I; 10-08-2016 at 09:57 PM.

10-08-2016, 10:08 PM	#5 (permalink)
cv129 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 3,235 Drives: 09 Nismo, 16 Nismo Rep Power: 163995	Curious... If your car is dedicated for drag racing, would it be a possible idea to run a longer rear spring (with a height adjustable adapter if needed) to bump your rear height a little, resulting in positive camber, and therefore settling to close to 0 camber while accelerating? Or just adjust static camber to positive, and settle to closer to 0 while accelerating? __________________ Setrab \| RE-71 \| SPL \| JRZ \| Nismo \| ARK \| Whiteline \| RacingBrake \| CJM Oil Pan \| Ti shield

10-09-2016, 05:04 PM	#7 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 63	I would not make the back end higher in hopes to get better drag times. I think it would mean you will have an even angle of squat on acceleration. The weight VB of the car will transfer most of its weight to the rear as you launch and then level out as u power down the strip. This transfer is a 2x blade as it allows the car to put powerboe ground. On the other hand, our IRS really kills the tire contact patch and as it cambers more - as it squats. You loose so much tire contact patch that we loose a bunch of traction. What you want for our car IMO is as stiff of a rear as you can so we minimal - camber as the weight shifts to the back. The front should be able to rise and compress in a equal and smooth fashion as to allow the car to b level out in one smooth action as to not disrupt the weight transfer from the back wheel. Just think about it some. Stomp on gas weight transfers to the back. If the front is smooth and bounces up and down, with ever time your head dips weight is transfers back to the front (this means rear just lost lots of traction). Ever time the head rises again on the bounce, the rear suddenly gets more traction and blast off again lifting the front again and the cycle continues. I have done lots of research on drag racing over the last few months. All this info is just from my own research which I have yet to test. I really don't want to spend the $$ on adjustable coilovers just for 1/2 a second. Anyhow, how I would adjust/dial in the suspension roughly is by doing burn outs as I don't have a long track readily available to test and tune. I would do a quick burn out and then inspect the rubber on n the road. First Try to adjust the front for a nice steady and controllable rise and fall. then try to get the back burnt rubber to be as even on the inside and outside as possible. Yes it's not perfect or the ideal was to set up a racing setup but it should work, at least in my head. I did the cheapest thing as zeroed out everything on my car, camber, toe on all 4 corners and runs nt05r drag radials. I do ok but still upset that im far from 11's with all the $ already spent. I'm looking to buy a fishing boat so that's why I have not upgraded my suspension, get an LSD and ecutec. Me likes fishing too and gotten into it again. YzGyz cv129 likes this. __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz Last edited by YzGyz; 10-09-2016 at 05:07 PM.

10-16-2016, 12:07 AM	#11 (permalink)
Z&I Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 410 Drives: '09 370z 6MT FI Rep Power: 12	Did some more research on the coilovers and found mention of some other brands on one of the Honda sites: AMR PIC STRANGE Will look in to them as well ... Did go down to AAM in Maryland to check on the car and pay on the bill [ouch] Got to test drive it a little and got some verbal numbers too ... They are sending me the Dyno Graph next week...hopefully that is. SEMA is coming up and they are getting ready to travel __________________________________________________ _________ 802 whp and 808 wtq ___ yes, 802 whp and 808 wtq on E85 They could've gone more but reached the limits of the 1300 ID injectors. It's a freakin' monster __________________________________________________ _________ It's still down there with a few more odds and ends needing to be tweaked. Soon ...... Zoom YzGyz likes this. __________________ . BB

10-17-2016, 10:56 AM	#12 (permalink)
MAMotorsports Track Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Glen Arm, MD Posts: 872 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 17	Most of the brands you have mentioned in this thread that advertise a "Drag" coil do nothing more than add a softer rear spring. With your power levels you are better off having a set built to your specifications (Or recommendations) We have worked with Stance on a few drag specific set ups, if you are interested or have any questions feel free to shoot me a PM. cv129 likes this. __________________ Daelen @ MA Motorsports MA-Motorsports.com https://www.facebook.com/pages/MA-Mo...C/125379858828

10-26-2016, 06:18 PM	#15 (permalink)
Z&I Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 410 Drives: '09 370z 6MT FI Rep Power: 12	Another Set Back All ready to P/U the car on Tuesday - but was informed of a problem that needs attention - so I wasn't able to. What had been a slightly higher than usual crank case pressure level earlier that wasn't a concern has increased - and now needs to be diagnosed and fixed. Doesn't look like I'll be at the track this season. Bummed in N.J. __________________ . BB

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