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Laguna Seca Track Day Brake Issue

Hi everyone, I currently have a base, manual 2013 370Z with 18k miles. All I have done to it is replace the tires to wider 275R, 245F Michelin Pilot Super

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Old 07-19-2016, 02:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Laguna Seca Track Day Brake Issue

Hi everyone,

I currently have a base, manual 2013 370Z with 18k miles. All I have done to it is replace the tires to wider 275R, 245F Michelin Pilot Super Sports.

The first time I went on a track was in Feb. on stock everything (except tires) to Laguna Seca and I noticed that after running 5 sessions throughout the day, my front brake pads were still great but my rear brake pads were completely worn to the backing plate. This was to the point that the TCS light on my console turned and stayed on. I decided to upgrade my stock OEM pads to something better, EBC Red Stuffs and also upgrade and flush my brake fluid with Motul RBF600. This combination initially felt great and pedal feel was amazing!

However, yesterday I went to Laguna Seca again (having flushed my brake fluid with Motul again and brakes still with a lot of pad left) and noticed that after three sessions, I started getting steering wheel vibrations whenever I braked from high speeds. I also drove the car around the paddock after every session to cool the brakes. Usually for the first 10 mins of every session, I didn't have the vibration issue but it would come back towards the second half to the point it got really violent and make it harder to control the car.

I inspected the car afterwards and noticed that my front pads held up fine and barely weared, however, my rears had again worn down almost close to the backing plate! There was also a lot of black crusty (burnt pad material I believe?) that I found on the wheels.

I was wondering, if the braking power of the car comes from the front:
-why did the rears wear down exponentially faster than the fronts?
-what could be the root cause of the vibration when braking?
-Should I use better (Carbotechs?) next time for track and also have the rotors resurfaced?

Your inputs would be greatly appreciated!

-Nik
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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something doesn't sound right about brake bias. seems like rear is grabbing way too hard for OEM 370Z. I hardly wear out the rear pads with Carbotech XP10/8 front/rear combo. I have no idea about red stuff but I doubt that pads caused the rear to wear fast.

someone needs to chime on this.



edit: steering wheel shaking is probably warped rotors, but sometimes uneven pad material transfer onto the rotors could cause vibration. it happens when you don't bed in the pads properly for carbotechs, it's hard to detect. usually steering wheel vibratio is for the front rotors most commonly. on your next run at the track, you might not notice any vibration if it was the pad issue.
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Not bedding the brakes properly is what i was also thinking
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you are driving with the traction control on (and I recommend this for a newbie), you will cause more wear to the rear brakes. If you are accelerating hard out of a corner and the rear starts to slide, the traction control will step-in and try to keep the rear of the car from getting away from you. This will happen even to a lesser degree on a street driven car if you accelerate hard from a turn.

I don't know if you are using an instructor, but I would guess that you need to be more smooth in your application of power and try to apply the power gradually as you are unwinding the wheel.
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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VDC will eat rear pads guaranteed. Best to turn it off and get used to running without it, or look into getting your car tuned with EcuTek, which includes a track-oriented replacement for VDC. Laguna Seca is one of the harder tracks on brakes, so it's not too surprising that you ran into this issue.

Your rotors likely have a lot of deposits on them after a track day with street pads. I would recommend replacing them entirely versus resurfacing. OEM blanks are fine -- otherwise you might try StopTech slotted.

Carbotech (XP10 front, XP8 rear) is a good option for a track pad. Still streetable too, so long as you're willing to deal with some noise.
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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With the VDC on. If the rear starts to step out. It will apply a rear brake to straighten the car out. First time this happen to me. I had a instructor with me. He chewed my butt off for hitting the brakes mid-turn. I had to show him on the video that I didn't do it. It scared the crap out of me when it happen.
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks guys for the suggestions and comments!

I was planning to just replace the rear brakes (same brake pad: EBC Red Stuff) for now and I will buy a set of track pads next time I go.

As for the rotors, I'm wondering if resurfacing / replacing is necessary if I just drop in a new set of brake pads and bed them in properly? Maybe, I should get them looked by a professional to determine the severity.

As for the VDC issue, how does the car behave on track if it's turned off? Is the difference quite significant with handling/braking?
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Word of warning, If you don't know what the car will do with VDC off you shouldn't turn it off. Play around in a really large parking lot with the VDC off and try to pitch it sideways and hold it there while your making a turn (foot on the gas and about 25 mph). Give yourself lots of room (like 150 ft all around you) because the car will wip around the other way when it recovers and you'll be going backwards with your foot on the brake trying to stop before you hit something.

This is what an upgraded LSD fixes. Stiff swaybars help make it more controllable.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Cars dangerous with everything left on! It's way to violent at applying brakes and killing engine power. Kill the VDC and YAW.

PS you're nuts running Laguna first on OEM pads!
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:53 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If you're tracking. Turn the VDC off. That should be the first thing you do. With it on, it will get you into trouble quicker then if it was off.
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Old 07-20-2016, 12:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I run with VDC off on the Dragon due to it's stupid activities. I hate VDC.
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Old 07-20-2016, 01:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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VDC always off...

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Old 07-20-2016, 01:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Guys: I don't wait to start another debate on VDC, but if the OP is wearing out a set of rear pads that quickly, he is way too aggressive on the throttle. If he turns VDC off, this will be a guaranteed spin (hell, I have spun on track with VDC on!). Hopefully, he isn't being followed closely or doesn't hit anything until he learns the 'feel'.

OP: Feel free to turn the VDC off, but do it in a safe place. Maybe this is what you need to learn how hard you are pressing the gas and the power that your can can put down with very little throttle.

Good luck and stay safe!
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Old 07-20-2016, 01:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I think that you are spot on, regardless of if you track or drive it hard just for fun he needs to know how the car behaves with the VDC on and off. As you well know measuring the amount of slip, speed and braking in the first half of the turn is were bad stuff is most likely to happen.

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Old 07-20-2016, 03:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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What could be happening is with the VDC on. It's applying a rear brake trying to keep the car straight. OP, did you notice if the traction control light flashes coming out of the turns?
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