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1/4 mile help. Want 11's

I want 8's lol Need awd

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Old 08-27-2015, 04:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I want 8's lol Need awd
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:28 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I want 8's lol Need awd
Do you have any plans for rear end / axle upgrades?
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:33 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Are they necessary? From what I understand if you know how to launch you should never break an axle and I've always been under the knowledgeable assumption that the trans/rear end can hold down 1000whp
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:58 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Are they necessary? From what I understand if you know how to launch you should never break an axle and I've always been under the knowledgeable assumption that the trans/rear end can hold down 1000whp
What do you mean "if you know how to launch you should never break an axle"? I am not sure about the trans but a hard launch with 1000whp is definitely going to break something. I broke a axle on a prepped surface with drag radials at around 500whp
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Eventually going to look at getting a pair from Driveshaftshop.com The Driveshaft Shop | 370Z / G37 - Nissan - Import Axles
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:18 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I am still on original axles.

Things that break axles:

single unsprung puck style clutches
launching without taking up the backlash in the drivetrain (preloading)
wheel hop

The 3.3 final drive will definitely help. To not have to shift into 5th or hitting the rev limiter in 4th before getting a chance is a big deal. the final drive will be one my next changes before going back to the track.

replace all the suspension bushings in the rear with delrin, urethane, and/or spherical bearings where possible. This is my next change. I just did it in my Mustang (yes the new ones are IRS) and it made a world of difference. Keeping those tires pointing as straight as possible helps a lot.

Dont lower the car too much, it screws up the control arm angles and it will camber too hard when it squats.

Align the car to as close to 0 camber as you can bear to look at.

Replace suspension cradle and differential bushings with solid/urethane type to both reduce rear steering and reduce wheelhop
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:35 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Yes I get wheel hop. I will have to try and not drop the clutch as fast or smash the gas. I don't plan to do any other major upgrades to my car. As stated before, I have school to pay for. I was just hoping there were some simple things to do to help get better times. I will get better tires after these S04 wear out. As for tire align, I can ask Mr Bergenholz when b I can. Catch him at the shop.

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Old 08-27-2015, 09:56 PM   #23 (permalink)
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rear camber set at 0 & M/T drag radials...my car is stock & cut's a 1.95 60'.
gotta heat up tires well & practice launching...some tracks put some vht down after burn out;wider tires aren't always better & you probably know that rear wheels camber in at launch. Good Luck! i don't have the horses yet to have traction issues.
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Old 08-28-2015, 02:21 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YzGyz View Post
Yes I get wheel hop. I will have to try and not drop the clutch as fast or smash the gas. I don't plan to do any other major upgrades to my car. As stated before, I have school to pay for. I was just hoping there were some simple things to do to help get better times. I will get better tires after these S04 wear out. As for tire align, I can ask Mr Bergenholz when b I can. Catch him at the shop.

YzGyz

If you don't have rear chamber arms then you have no alignment possibilities. You'll need at minimum $300 worth of arms to get any improvement. A set of coilovers and apparently Ron can make almost anything hook.

I've also been talking to Johnny about ecutek. It has full traction control. I'll be switching when the weather gets better.
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Old 08-28-2015, 02:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
I am still on original axles.

Things that break axles:

single unsprung puck style clutches
launching without taking up the backlash in the drivetrain (preloading)
wheel hop

The 3.3 final drive will definitely help. To not have to shift into 5th or hitting the rev limiter in 4th before getting a chance is a big deal. the final drive will be one my next changes before going back to the track.

replace all the suspension bushings in the rear with delrin, urethane, and/or spherical bearings where possible. This is my next change. I just did it in my Mustang (yes the new ones are IRS) and it made a world of difference. Keeping those tires pointing as straight as possible helps a lot.

Dont lower the car too much, it screws up the control arm angles and it will camber too hard when it squats.

Align the car to as close to 0 camber as you can bear to look at.

Replace suspension cradle and differential bushings with solid/urethane type to both reduce rear steering and reduce wheelhop

Good thing I setup car exactly to what you mentioned
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Old 08-28-2015, 04:07 PM   #26 (permalink)
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So now I need to research camber arms and see if I can swing it. I might not be able to swing the $$ or have the time to install them till it gets cold again..

I definitely can't afford coils.

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Old 08-28-2015, 04:42 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I gave up going for a time lol. Its all about the trap speeds for me.

Also if someone can figure out how to make these cars want to go from 1st to 2nd while launching im all ears. That is the only shift i have to let off on, every other shift is done at WOT all the way down the track. That 1-2 kills me everytime.

My best trap was 124 at around 13 seconds. haha. To be fair my car is very low and running much to much negative camber in the back to get a half decent launch, but then she really does move like a rocket once I hit second.
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Old 08-28-2015, 05:49 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If you don't have rear chamber arms then you have no alignment possibilities.

Not necessarily. My alignment guy got me to -2.24 and the traction gain was noticeable. That said he recommended me get camber arms and bring it back so he could go farther with it (I have the arms now just not installed and realigned) YzGuyz if you can go ahead and get the camber arms, if not then spend $60 on "big power" rear alignment. This is all based on you currently having low budget
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:18 PM   #29 (permalink)
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-2.2 is just plain terrible for drag racing
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:23 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I will probably just holdout on new toys fir a little while. I only had the car back up and running a few K miles and need her to DD from work and school. Maybe, next year of I save my $ right.

The census says I need new rear alignment arms, and coilover if I can swing it. New tires would help too. I might have to ask Ron on what he thinks are good for split duty.

Keep the good info coming. Thanks to all poster for dropping their 2c.

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