How much does it take to...
 

How much does it take to wear out a brake caliper.

Is there such a thing?

The powdercoat is no longer black, the piston seals have burned up long ago and they've been driven @ the track... hard.

Thoughts?

i've not read about calipers cracking here, so im guessing the metal part is all cosmetic? just paint/powder coat them again?

for the seals and such, id just replace them.

I'm still on my stock untouched calipers...

The "seals" that have burned up must be the dust covers; "burned up piston seals" would have caused major hydraulic fluid loss.

Correct, dust covers for the caliper pistons.

Yeah but is the seals all needs replacing? And even Mike the powdercoater said he wouldn't do my calipers cuz of the track duty destroys colors.

But you drive so much, you probably never use the brakes. ;)

If you're so inclined, buy a caliper rebuild kit and retrofit the ones you have.

What you have to worry about is corrosion on the pistons, and the cylinder bores. This is where moisture collects in the caliper. When you rebuild the calipers. See if there is any pitting on the pistons and a build-up of a white material behind the pistons in the bore. If the pistons have pitting, get new pistons. The white material can be scraped out with a screwdriver/pick. Then you want to hone the bore. If the pitting in the cylinder walls is bad. Get new calipers. Where there is pitting. This is where the corrosion will start again after a rebuild.

I've done a few calipers in my time. ;)

As long as there are no cracks (magnaflux them if there are any doubts) or deformation (mic and caliper), all you have to worry about is if the bores are still good.

Only two things I've seen damage calipers: brute force of a wreck cracked/broke something or dirty fluid/bad seal ate up the cylinders. Three things ... or poor mechanicing. Keep the fluid changed and they ought to last a lifetime or two.

But I have zero experience with racing brakes and there may be something I'm missing.

Not using racing brakes here... just the OEM Akebonos.

But good to hear :-)