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Reduce nose dive under heavy braking

Try raising the ride height back to stock or just half an inch lower than stock. I'd try adjusting rear dampers for the very first attempt; Koni SA alters rebound

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Old 06-30-2015, 01:27 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Try raising the ride height back to stock or just half an inch lower than stock. I'd try adjusting rear dampers for the very first attempt; Koni SA alters rebound damping and leaves compression damping the same which is useless in brake dive. Rear sway bar has no effect in straight line braking.

I agree with leaving spring rates as they are. Use spring rates to adjust wheel rate, not brake dive, squat, and body roll.

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Old 06-30-2015, 02:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by POS VETT View Post
Try raising the ride height back to stock or just half an inch lower than stock. I'd try adjusting rear dampers for the very first attempt; Koni SA alters rebound damping and leaves compression damping the same which is useless in brake dive. Rear sway bar has no effect in straight line braking.

I agree with leaving spring rates as they are. Use spring rates to adjust wheel rate, not brake dive, squat, and body roll.
As the OP was specifically referencing autox, you'd be braking going into a turn. While you're doing most of the braking in a straight line, your still going into a turn. This was the reason for suggesting disconnecting the rear sway bar.
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Old 06-30-2015, 02:46 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Rear sway actually has very little effect under braking...mostly under steady state or acceleration. Did the OP actually say what front swaybar he was using? If trail braking, and too soft a front swaybar, THAT would cause a very loose rear end...

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Old 06-30-2015, 03:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I am using the eibach front bar set to full stiff and my tires are Dunlop Z2 275 square.
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Old 06-30-2015, 05:17 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I would place my bet (given your rear toe at 1/8 in) that softening the rear rebound will cure most of your ills. This may, however, make the rear of the car a bit sluggish out of turns. Stiffening the rear swaybar may solve that, but many of us run the softest we can on the rear swaybar. You may have to learn to be a bit more aggressive with the throttle coming out of turns to compensate for the change? Good luck and let us know how it goes!

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Old 07-02-2015, 02:47 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tips. I will be trying all of this out this sat. Hopefully it all goes well.
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Old 07-08-2015, 02:19 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tips. I will be trying all of this out this sat. Hopefully it all goes well.
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Old 07-08-2015, 07:23 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I reduced the rear damping a bit and the car was much more stable. However I had an instructor with me and he said that I was braking a bit to hard. So I need to work on not getting on the brakes so hard. As always its the loose nut behind the wheel that causes the problems.
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:34 PM   #24 (permalink)
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What? Braking too hard? Did you engage the ABS?
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:11 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I didnt hit the ABS, the guy just said I was on the brakes too hard, I could have gone through the spot faster. However this course was much different than last time where I had a lot of back end wiggle. But either way I will keep working to stabilize the back end more under heavy braking. I am making some suspension changes in the coming weeks so I will see how things go then.

Also might start to run stock pads in the rear with my aggressive pads in the front to help balance things out a bit.
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