Looking for some advice - prepping Z for first track day

GSS138

Not with the CSF it's not. But I am the only one I know of running that setup, all I can say is so far it works wonderfully. I think the CSF actually keeps the temps low enough to actually allow that loop to be efficient.

My friend Martin 82 deleted his, and he has to run 2 24/34? coolers with fans to achieve the same results.

WO the CSF I would agree with you, remove that loop, but so far I have not needed to and think there might actually be some benefit to leaving it in fi you can get your engine temps low enough,which so far seems to be the case.

It's painful that you have to spend in the neighborhood of $2k to get it to this point either way though lol.

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Robert Yuras

OP:

There's a few things that need to clarified be here:

1. Running a stock Z in spring time when ambient temps peak in the mid 60-70's is a WHOLE lot different than running a stock Z in summer when temps peak in the 90's (and in my Texas case 100's).
2. Fuel starvation will be any issue. Period. Keep the Z above 3/4 of a tank.

SO! If we consider you're going to get hooked on road racing and ditch the cones, here are my BASE recommendations for a street car that gets tracked every other three months or so, that you don't want to blow up:
1. Brake fluid/Clutch fluid - all new, Motul 660
2. Oil Cooler - 32 Row, run a good quality synthetic oil (personally I run 2-25 row coolers in series)
3. High Temp fluid in the rear diff
4. Redline fluid in the transmission
5. Your flavor of upgraded pad, one step lower than a race pad - I run the XP8/10 combo and love it. Squeeks like crazy on the street
6. I personally used exhaust wrap around the drivers side exhaust header AND wrapped the clutch line - never had one single issue with the new fluid
7. G Force Belly band

The extras:
1. SS brake lines when you're doing the fluid
2. Brake duct coolers (I made my own for about $50)
3. Upgraded radiator
4. Water wetter
5. Tires

MightyBobo

Brake pads - just do the defacto standard: Carbotech XP10s up front, 8s in the rear.

Don't screw with the rotors, and if you do, don't screw with drilled ones. Not needed.

Motul 600 will be fine for brake fluid, or AP racing's derivative.

Swap your clutch fluid while you're at it. I boiled that a couple times.

Stainless lines aren't needed either. But if you're worried about brand new lines stretching/bursting from age, go for it I guess.

Definitely get an oil cooler. 25R minimum. Stock one blows.

That's all you need to not die. Ignore anyone saying you don't need to do pads and fluid, unless you want to potentially die, or you have no intention of actually going fast and pushing limits.

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Robert Yuras

I'm running the stock stabilizer also. I need it actually to warm the engine oil initially. With the 2 coolers, in the winter time my oil wont heat, so the engine coolant warms the oil earlier.

I'll admit, I prefer it not be there though..It makes getting the oil filter off a real PITA

Robert Yuras

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1427156694.327357.jpg

My completed setup prior to crash bar reinstall. Fans come on at 180 degrees.

FLUJOKE

Well that y. How the heck do the coolers get any fresh cool air behind the bumper?


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GSS138

Hey Robert, been looking for a how to/parts list for DIY brake ducts. You have any info?

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ufoz8mycow

Wow thank you guys for all of the input and advice.. Definitely lots of good information here! I know that I'll get re-addicted to road racing pretty much immediately so it'll be good to not kill myself or my car.

Robert Yuras

The two SPAL heavy duty fans mounted to them. I haven't seen oil temps over 200.

Robert Yuras

I do! However, I have a Nismo, so my duct work ends at the core support and grabs any fresh air contained in the shrouding around the radiator. You can see the two black circle inlets on either side of my core support in my pic. Your sport model has the fangs. Stillen sells the fang inserts so you can grab front bumper air.

I don't have the install pics on my phone, but when I get time I'll post them up. And no, I didn't just river a gutter outlet onto the backing plate. I keep seeing that DIY thread and I think it stinks.

GSS138

Thanks man, I might be switching to 2015 nismo front, still trying to figure out fitment and cost to "make it fit" etc. So any info appreciated.

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ufoz8mycow

What is this? Google brings up a bunch of gun holsters which I am assuming is not an essential at most trackdays.

Mike B CCTX

I posted a few months ago after my last track time at COTA and listed at least things that needed changing. Since then, have made some big changes and will drive the car next weekend at TWS. I have a 2013 NISMO. Upgraded to a South Bend Stage 2 clutch with stainless steel CSC (have had two clutch pedal sticking to the floor incidents), lightweight flywheel, added CFS triple flow radiator , 33 row setrab oil cooler (again, several 260 deg episodes on track,
Went with Carbotechs xp10s/xp8s, Castrol SRF (probably overkill here), had a 4 point bar installed, Safecraft 6 point harnesses, Sparco Evo II seats. I had the bar seats, harnesses, pads, radiator and oil cooler all done by Winding Road Racing in Austin. I highly recommend Juliann and Alex.....they were incredible.

They were working on 2 other 350s. Hope to see those cars at TWS. Will let everyone know how the upgrades work out. Still know to keep the tank full. Experienced fuel starvation there.

Rusty

You're all set just about. All you need now is phunk's RRP kit.

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GSS138

Depends on the track really.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.