Koni Yellow Sport AutoX setup

GSS138 · 03-02-2015, 07:32 PM

Tough to get this car to not be "pushy" on OEM springs. It's somewhat tamable through front sway bar, but too much sway eventually leads to more push as well.

Start looking at some springs

cruzthepug · 03-02-2015, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSS138

Tough to get this car to not be "pushy" on OEM springs. It's somewhat tamable through front sway bar, but too much sway eventually leads to more push as well.

Start looking at some springs

Have to careful with springs, can't change ride height and stay in BS

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

gomer_110 · 03-02-2015, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzthepug

Have to careful with springs, can't change ride height and stay in BS

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last I knew you can't change springs at all and stay in BS. Pretty much everything that was suggested is against the rules for the street category.

GSS138 · 03-02-2015, 10:59 PM

Yeah if it is a classing issue then sorta forget what I am saying. Definitely check your rules. Try you bar full front stiff and disconnect one of your rear endlinks. Tune from there. You might need to back down on the stiffness of the Eibach, I used stillen full stiff front and it was too much on OEM springs/dampers. You can probably compensate a lot more than I could with your Konis.

What's your rear bar/setting at?

cruzthepug · 03-03-2015, 08:19 AM

Only allowed one sway bar change in street, so OEM rear.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GSS138 · 03-03-2015, 11:26 AM

Then based on all of that info I would probably run that Eibach full stiff, dial in the front dampers to somewhere around 70-80% stiffness and leave the rear at about 20% for starters. Stiffer front will help compensate the soft oem springs. Start ridiculously soft in the rear on purpose, run a session, add 1-2 clicks , run a session, It will be pretty obvious when you need to undo a click or 2. Write it all down!

AK370Z · 03-06-2015, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSS138

Then based on all of that info I would probably run that Eibach full stiff, dial in the front dampers to somewhere around 70-80% stiffness and leave the rear at about 20% for starters. Stiffer front will help compensate the soft oem springs. Start ridiculously soft in the rear on purpose, run a session, add 1-2 clicks , run a session, It will be pretty obvious when you need to undo a click or 2. Write it all down!

unfortunately this doesn't work for the Z (at least was in my case). I tried it and it was terrible. Though some told me not to but I still did it as it's how the "RWD" setup works (stiff front and soft rear). Car wasn't turning at all, ABS was pissed off, really unnatural feeling and rear end/tire was going to a point and snapping oversteer that was harder to control.. Z is a weird car ..

Came home and changed to almost 7-8/10 stiff rear and lets say 5/10 stiff front, car was superb. Turning really well, very balanced and brake felt very nice. I'll post here two videos: before adjustment (driven by a friend of mine who's a very good autoxer. You'll see him struggling too ) and then later with the change in setting w/me driving

Before setting change (stiff front/soft rear)

After setting change (stiffer rear and softer front) Me driving

cruzthepug · 03-06-2015, 07:04 AM

[QUOTE=AK370Z;3129839]unfortunately this doesn't work for the Z (at least was in my case). I tried it and it was terrible. Though some told me not to but I still did it as it's how the "RWD" setup works (stiff front and soft rear). Car wasn't turning at all, ABS was pissed off, really unnatural feeling and rear end/tire was going to a point and snapping oversteer that was harder to control.. Z is a weird car ..

Came home and changed to almost 7-8/10 stiff rear and lets say 5/10 stiff front, car was superb. Turning really well, very balanced and brake felt very nice. I'll post here two videos: before adjustment (driven by a friend of mine who's a very good autoxer. You'll see him struggling too ) and then later with the change in setting w/me driving[quote]

That's really strange. I started out the first T&T last weekend with 60 front and 80 rear. Couldn't make it through the course the rear was so loose, just going through a slalom the rear would get out from under the car. Stiff front, soft rear was the only way I got the car to work.

AK370Z · 03-06-2015, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzthepug

That's really strange. I started out the first T&T last weekend with 60 front and 80 rear. Couldn't make it through the course the rear was so loose, just going through a slalom the rear would get out from under the car. Stiff front, soft rear was the only way I got the car to work.

interesting. Both events my ambient temp outside were 37 and 40 degrees... I know November events in NE

So perhaps you're in hot climate? What tire brand/size and pressure all 4? very strange..

cruzthepug · 03-06-2015, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK370Z

interesting. Both events my ambient temp outside were 37 and 40 degrees... I know November events in NE

So perhaps you're in hot climate? What tire brand/size and pressure all 4? very strange..

Temps in the mid 40's. Hankook RS3's, 285 all around, pressures 43 front, 33 back.

AK370Z · 03-06-2015, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzthepug

Temps in the mid 40's. Hankook RS3's, 285 all around, pressures 43 front, 33 back.

Interesting. You're gonna make me redo and try out test and tune autox event here and re tune the konis lol.. but I didn't like softer rear at all.. car didn't feel right.

How do you like the rs3? didn't you had re-11s?

GSS138 · 03-06-2015, 11:20 AM

I will totally believe that AK, our rear OEM suspension is way too soft, and can remember problems like that as well. I went from OEM to 12K rears+sway and am now settled on 11K w no sway. I think 8-10K with OEM/mild sway would probably work pretty well too. It's a real fine line with the rear, a little too soft and it turns into a mush ball like in your first video, a little too stiff and the car will try to kill you(like mine has been doing for the last 5 months).

Basically just use the dampers to artificially make the car as stiff as you can, but when the rear is too stiff, it will let you know right away! I haven't really found a "too stiff on the front situation" yet, I am at 12K front full bar, and it's about the stopping point for me due to valving and daily driving.

In terms of suggesting a setting though, start soft (even though it is already soft) on the dampers and just keep adding clicks. Better to start off in mush land than it is to crank them down and make the car unsafe. Then again, you guys don't have to worry about walls and other cars so some of the safety issues don't exist.

GSS138 · 03-06-2015, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzthepug

Temps in the mid 40's. Hankook RS3's, 285 all around, pressures 43 front, 33 back.

Sheesh AutoX setups are a lot different, we usually run 36 front/34 rear or so on the RS3. Our temps though out here get upwards of 100. I took my tire temps at Chuckwalla last October(middle of the desert) they were 140 degrees BEFORE I went on track. Yes my ABS kicked in and sent me off track that session lol.

redline10000 · 03-06-2015, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK370Z

unfortunately this doesn't work for the Z (at least was in my case). I tried it and it was terrible. Though some told me not to but I still did it as it's how the "RWD" setup works (stiff front and soft rear). Car wasn't turning at all, ABS was pissed off, really unnatural feeling and rear end/tire was going to a point and snapping oversteer that was harder to control.. Z is a weird car ..

Came home and changed to almost 7-8/10 stiff rear and lets say 5/10 stiff front, car was superb. Turning really well, very balanced and brake felt very nice. I'll post here two videos: before adjustment (driven by a friend of mine who's a very good autoxer. You'll see him struggling too ) and then later with the change in setting w/me driving

Before setting change (stiff front/soft rear)

After setting change (stiffer rear and softer front) Me driving

What app did you use to make the vid and to datalog? I need a new logging app.

stuy486 · 03-06-2015, 04:57 PM

FWIW, with the settings I've posted in another thread, my car was incredibly loose in San Diego where they have a notoriously low-grip asphalt surface. The same settings on concrete were great. It a problem I ever solved because San Diego is the only low grip surface I ran on all year.

03-02-2015, 07:32 PM	#16 (permalink)
GSS138 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Mission Viejo, CA Posts: 769 Drives: '12 370Z 6M Sport Rep Power: 13	Tough to get this car to not be "pushy" on OEM springs. It's somewhat tamable through front sway bar, but too much sway eventually leads to more push as well. Start looking at some springs __________________ Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

03-02-2015, 10:59 PM	#19 (permalink)
GSS138 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Mission Viejo, CA Posts: 769 Drives: '12 370Z 6M Sport Rep Power: 13	Yeah if it is a classing issue then sorta forget what I am saying. Definitely check your rules. Try you bar full front stiff and disconnect one of your rear endlinks. Tune from there. You might need to back down on the stiffness of the Eibach, I used stillen full stiff front and it was too much on OEM springs/dampers. You can probably compensate a lot more than I could with your Konis. What's your rear bar/setting at? __________________ Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5. Last edited by GSS138; 03-02-2015 at 11:09 PM.

03-03-2015, 08:19 AM	#20 (permalink)
cruzthepug Base Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 245 Drives: 2014 370Z Touring Rep Power: 11	Only allowed one sway bar change in street, so OEM rear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Ark Performance / Eibach / Forgestar (CF10's Daily, F14's Race)/ Project Kics / K&N / Z1 / TWM Performance / RJM Performance / Koni / Hawk Performance

03-03-2015, 11:26 AM	#21 (permalink)
GSS138 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Mission Viejo, CA Posts: 769 Drives: '12 370Z 6M Sport Rep Power: 13	Then based on all of that info I would probably run that Eibach full stiff, dial in the front dampers to somewhere around 70-80% stiffness and leave the rear at about 20% for starters. Stiffer front will help compensate the soft oem springs. Start ridiculously soft in the rear on purpose, run a session, add 1-2 clicks , run a session, It will be pretty obvious when you need to undo a click or 2. Write it all down! __________________ Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

03-06-2015, 07:04 AM	#23 (permalink)
cruzthepug Base Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 245 Drives: 2014 370Z Touring Rep Power: 11	[QUOTE=AK370Z;3129839]unfortunately this doesn't work for the Z (at least was in my case). I tried it and it was terrible. Though some told me not to but I still did it as it's how the "RWD" setup works (stiff front and soft rear). Car wasn't turning at all, ABS was pissed off, really unnatural feeling and rear end/tire was going to a point and snapping oversteer that was harder to control.. Z is a weird car .. Came home and changed to almost 7-8/10 stiff rear and lets say 5/10 stiff front, car was superb. Turning really well, very balanced and brake felt very nice. I'll post here two videos: before adjustment (driven by a friend of mine who's a very good autoxer. You'll see him struggling too ) and then later with the change in setting w/me driving[quote] That's really strange. I started out the first T&T last weekend with 60 front and 80 rear. Couldn't make it through the course the rear was so loose, just going through a slalom the rear would get out from under the car. Stiff front, soft rear was the only way I got the car to work. __________________ Ark Performance / Eibach / Forgestar (CF10's Daily, F14's Race)/ Project Kics / K&N / Z1 / TWM Performance / RJM Performance / Koni / Hawk Performance

03-06-2015, 11:20 AM	#27 (permalink)
GSS138 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Mission Viejo, CA Posts: 769 Drives: '12 370Z 6M Sport Rep Power: 13	I will totally believe that AK, our rear OEM suspension is way too soft, and can remember problems like that as well. I went from OEM to 12K rears+sway and am now settled on 11K w no sway. I think 8-10K with OEM/mild sway would probably work pretty well too. It's a real fine line with the rear, a little too soft and it turns into a mush ball like in your first video, a little too stiff and the car will try to kill you(like mine has been doing for the last 5 months). Basically just use the dampers to artificially make the car as stiff as you can, but when the rear is too stiff, it will let you know right away! I haven't really found a "too stiff on the front situation" yet, I am at 12K front full bar, and it's about the stopping point for me due to valving and daily driving. In terms of suggesting a setting though, start soft (even though it is already soft) on the dampers and just keep adding clicks. Better to start off in mush land than it is to crank them down and make the car unsafe. Then again, you guys don't have to worry about walls and other cars so some of the safety issues don't exist. AK370Z likes this. __________________ Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5. Last edited by GSS138; 03-06-2015 at 11:25 AM.

03-06-2015, 04:57 PM	#30 (permalink)
stuy486 Base Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Santa Barbara, CA Posts: 81 Drives: '12 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 12	FWIW, with the settings I've posted in another thread, my car was incredibly loose in San Diego where they have a notoriously low-grip asphalt surface. The same settings on concrete were great. It a problem I ever solved because San Diego is the only low grip surface I ran on all year. __________________ 2014 SCCA C-Street National Champion 2015 SCCA STU National Champion

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