South Louisiana

TypeOne · 10-17-2011, 09:55 AM

It really depends on what oil you use... like Kaien said, if you're running a full synthetic like Amsoil, MOTUL, RedLine..ect it can handle hotter and cooler temps without breaking down as quickly.

If you are using a normal non-full synthetic like, Mobil1, Castrol, Penzoil ect then you want to stay away from extreme temps...(really hot or really cold.) That should also dictate what is deemed the SAFE running temperatures.

When it is cold or even cool outside, I won't be past 200*f. I sat in traffic all day on Saturday and it was stuck at 210*f.

PaulZ370 · 10-17-2011, 07:25 PM

I use Valoline full synthetic, and have warmed her up for about 5 minutes on real cold mornings just to make sure I get to 180°F at least. With the Cooler partially blocked off, I am consistently running at 200°F no matter traffic or free running. If I get hard on it accelerating, it pops up to about 205°F then backs down to 200°F and just sits there. I kinda like that a lot better. It's not really the oil I am too much worried about, it's cold oil running through the engine consistently - gotta have a happy medium! I think 200°F is just perfect IMHO.

I do like Bucketman's proposed experiment. I'd like to see how accurate the readings are.

TypeOne · 10-18-2011, 03:50 PM

Cooler oil = more protective and last longer.

Those not running a cooler that see temps get above 230*f should change their oil more often because the breakdown process will occur sooner.

I change my oil about ever 2900-3100 miles, with a new filter. In addition, I'm going to be changing my gearbox and rear diff fluid again very soon. I changed my trans fluid to the MT85 and found a MASSIVE improvement over the stock stuff. The shifter would feel notchy and such when it was cold, but after the fluid change it'd all butta!

PaulZ370 · 10-18-2011, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TypeOne

Cooler oil = more protective and last longer

Hmmm... Not quite. I'd have to put a little caveat on that Dave. Oil that is too "cold" might actually cause harm to the engine (too thick, not flowy enough, cannot react fast enough to sudden acceleration/ high revs, etc, thereby resulting in too little protection). I was seriously torn between driving in lower gears (higher rpm's) to warm up the oil on cold mornings, or driving in higher gears (lower the rpm's) to protect my engine seeing that my oil is cold...! I couldn't decide what it is that I needed or wanted to protect more..?? (I know, I tend to over-analyze, I know...that is the curse of being an engineer)!

Anyway, I finally decided to park the Z in the Garage and drive the Titan daily back and forth for the seven miles to where I park from now till the weather warms up again - and then maybe. I think I'll keep my baby for weekends and fun drives or whenever I just can't take it anymore and just HAVE to drive her.... I wonder if I can make it a couple of days even...!!!

TypeOne · 10-19-2011, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulZ370

Hmmm... Not quite. I'd have to put a little caveat on that Dave. Oil that is too "cold" might actually cause harm to the engine (too thick, not flowy enough, cannot react fast enough to sudden acceleration/ high revs, etc, thereby resulting in too little protection). I was seriously torn between driving in lower gears (higher rpm's) to warm up the oil on cold mornings, or driving in higher gears (lower the rpm's) to protect my engine seeing that my oil is cold...! I couldn't decide what it is that I needed or wanted to protect more..?? (I know, I tend to over-analyze, I know...that is the curse of being an engineer)!

Anyway, I finally decided to park the Z in the Garage and drive the Titan daily back and forth for the seven miles to where I park from now till the weather warms up again - and then maybe. I think I'll keep my baby for weekends and fun drives or whenever I just can't take it anymore and just HAVE to drive her.... I wonder if I can make it a couple of days even...!!!

Paul,

"Cooler" oil as in, normal operating temps... as in temperatures that are below 240-250*F. Obviously COLD oil isn't good, but generally speaking oil that is 200-220*F offers better protection compared to oil that is 30*f hotter.

Now it's all also relative to WHAT type of oil you use... so it is a little more complicated.

windex · 10-19-2011, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulZ370

Hmmm... Not quite. I'd have to put a little caveat on that Dave. Oil that is too "cold" might actually cause harm to the engine (too thick, not flowy enough, cannot react fast enough to sudden acceleration/ high revs, etc, thereby resulting in too little protection). I was seriously torn between driving in lower gears (higher rpm's) to warm up the oil on cold mornings, or driving in higher gears (lower the rpm's) to protect my engine seeing that my oil is cold...! I couldn't decide what it is that I needed or wanted to protect more..?? (I know, I tend to over-analyze, I know...that is the curse of being an engineer)!

Anyway, I finally decided to park the Z in the Garage and drive the Titan daily back and forth for the seven miles to where I park from now till the weather warms up again - and then maybe. I think I'll keep my baby for weekends and fun drives or whenever I just can't take it anymore and just HAVE to drive her.... I wonder if I can make it a couple of days even...!!!

Paul,
You don't have a thermostatic sandwich plate? Might be a good idea to get one installed and not have to worry about it at all.

PaulZ370 · 10-19-2011, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windex

Paul,
You don't have a thermostatic sandwich plate? Might be a good idea to get one installed and not have to worry about it at all.

Funny thing, I did not see anything about the thermostatic plate till after I bought the system.

I am just too anal about everything - have no clue how Nancy puts up with me!

10-17-2011, 07:25 PM	#2 (permalink)
PaulZ370 Track Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Covington, LA Posts: 956 Drives: 011 370 BSM/T/SP/6MT Rep Power: 16	I use Valoline full synthetic, and have warmed her up for about 5 minutes on real cold mornings just to make sure I get to 180°F at least. With the Cooler partially blocked off, I am consistently running at 200°F no matter traffic or free running. If I get hard on it accelerating, it pops up to about 205°F then backs down to 200°F and just sits there. I kinda like that a lot better. It's not really the oil I am too much worried about, it's cold oil running through the engine consistently - gotta have a happy medium! I think 200°F is just perfect IMHO. I do like Bucketman's proposed experiment. I'd like to see how accurate the readings are. __________________ *BD2ZBN :: 2011 BSM/TRG/SP/6MT/Stillen Oil Cooler/K&N CAI/Michelin PSS/Brake Light/EIBACH Sway Bars/FI Res. HFC+18" Res. CBE/Morimoto XB LED/DRLs/10mm Spacers*

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10-17-2011, 09:55 AM	#1 (permalink)
TypeOne A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Posts: 2,682 Drives: BSM 370 Rep Power: 1851	It really depends on what oil you use... like Kaien said, if you're running a full synthetic like Amsoil, MOTUL, RedLine..ect it can handle hotter and cooler temps without breaking down as quickly. If you are using a normal non-full synthetic like, Mobil1, Castrol, Penzoil ect then you want to stay away from extreme temps...(really hot or really cold.) That should also dictate what is deemed the SAFE running temperatures. When it is cold or even cool outside, I won't be past 200f. I sat in traffic all day on Saturday and it was stuck at 210f.

10-18-2011, 03:50 PM	#3 (permalink)
TypeOne A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Posts: 2,682 Drives: BSM 370 Rep Power: 1851	Cooler oil = more protective and last longer. Those not running a cooler that see temps get above 230*f should change their oil more often because the breakdown process will occur sooner. I change my oil about ever 2900-3100 miles, with a new filter. In addition, I'm going to be changing my gearbox and rear diff fluid again very soon. I changed my trans fluid to the MT85 and found a MASSIVE improvement over the stock stuff. The shifter would feel notchy and such when it was cold, but after the fluid change it'd all butta!