Too much lowwwwwwww

I need to get a viper 5901 installed. recommendations on shops locally?

Oil Cooler Plate
 

Thought I'd share this with the group in case some of you are thinking of doing something to the Oil Cooler due to the cooler temps and the colder ones still to come:

I just completed blanking off part of my oil cooler today. Now I am running a consistent 200°F even in Stop/Go Traffic conditions. For the last few weeks with the cooler weather, I barely could get the temps up to 180°F. The plate covers the bottom 12 of the 19 rows, and is nothing more than an aluminum "No Trespassing" sign that I found at Home Depot painted flat black and cut to fit the SETRAB 19-Row Cooler and velcro'd to it. Z IT GO did the same, except his covers the top part of the cooler instead of the bottom. The Aluminum sign was perfect - easy to work with (cut it with a pair of good regular scissors) and paint (Roll Cage paint good up to 275°F from an Auto Store), but sturdy, inexpensive and lightweight. :tup:

That's cool, I've never covered mine and had zero problems last and the winter before. I know people say the best range is from 220-240 but that's mostly with old school oil (dino-oil) syn oil is designed for higher and lower temps. I have the 25 row and last year we went to the track when it was 30 degrees out. The other z guys would make a pass and have to sit it out a turn or two and let the car cool. I on the other hand made 8 back to back passes and drove home with no problems. Just me but I don't think it's needed for us Louisiana guys.

I barely have been able to get the oil up to 180 in the mornings by the time I get to where I park (7 miles). I really do not want to run it too low a temp, so at least a partial block will get my temps up quickly, but will still keep them reasonably cool.

This thought has crossed my mind more than once. How accurate are these temp gauges? I know that on the 300TT the oil pressure gauge was notorious for reading low(actually the sending unit is the culprit). I think I am going to rig up a external gauge to see.

When it's cold out I just let the car run/warm up for about 5 mins before driving. As long as your running syn oil and not Dino-oil 180 degrees is fine.

It really depends on what oil you use... like Kaien said, if you're running a full synthetic like Amsoil, MOTUL, RedLine..ect it can handle hotter and cooler temps without breaking down as quickly.

If you are using a normal non-full synthetic like, Mobil1, Castrol, Penzoil ect then you want to stay away from extreme temps...(really hot or really cold.) That should also dictate what is deemed the SAFE running temperatures.

When it is cold or even cool outside, I won't be past 200*f. I sat in traffic all day on Saturday and it was stuck at 210*f.

I use Valoline full synthetic, and have warmed her up for about 5 minutes on real cold mornings just to make sure I get to 180°F at least. With the Cooler partially blocked off, I am consistently running at 200°F no matter traffic or free running. If I get hard on it accelerating, it pops up to about 205°F then backs down to 200°F and just sits there. I kinda like that a lot better. It's not really the oil I am too much worried about, it's cold oil running through the engine consistently - gotta have a happy medium! I think 200°F is just perfect IMHO.

I do like Bucketman's proposed experiment. I'd like to see how accurate the readings are.

Cooler oil = more protective and last longer.

Those not running a cooler that see temps get above 230*f should change their oil more often because the breakdown process will occur sooner.

I change my oil about ever 2900-3100 miles, with a new filter. In addition, I'm going to be changing my gearbox and rear diff fluid again very soon. I changed my trans fluid to the MT85 and found a MASSIVE improvement over the stock stuff. The shifter would feel notchy and such when it was cold, but after the fluid change it'd all butta!

I'd also like to change my tranny and diff fluids soon. Well it's official the 2012 Z has an oil cooler and some kind of brake cooling kit. Most likely just some holes in the fender lining for the brake kit but still cool.

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...coolers-2.html

Hmmm... Not quite. I'd have to put a little caveat on that Dave. Oil that is too "cold" might actually cause harm to the engine (too thick, not flowy enough, cannot react fast enough to sudden acceleration/ high revs, etc, thereby resulting in too little protection). I was seriously torn between driving in lower gears (higher rpm's) to warm up the oil on cold mornings, or driving in higher gears (lower the rpm's) to protect my engine seeing that my oil is cold...! I couldn't decide what it is that I needed or wanted to protect more..?? (I know, I tend to over-analyze, I know...that is the curse of being an engineer)!:icon18:

Anyway, I finally decided to park the Z in the Garage and drive the Titan daily back and forth for the seven miles to where I park from now till the weather warms up again - and then maybe. I think I'll keep my baby for weekends and fun drives or whenever I just can't take it anymore and just HAVE to drive her.... I wonder if I can make it a couple of days even...!!!:driving:

I think if your covering your oil cooler you will be fine. The guys up north in DC and the like do it all year round i'm sure we will be fine way down here.

Paul,

"Cooler" oil as in, normal operating temps... as in temperatures that are below 240-250*F. Obviously COLD oil isn't good, but generally speaking oil that is 200-220*F offers better protection compared to oil that is 30*f hotter.

Now it's all also relative to WHAT type of oil you use... so it is a little more complicated.

Paul,
You don't have a thermostatic sandwich plate? Might be a good idea to get one installed and not have to worry about it at all.