SoCal Z

birdman71 · 05-04-2016, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FairladyZ40th

Jebis, ok.

This is excellent, which is why I wanted to touch base with you on it haha. So are you telling me the ACT is better than JWT? Because I thought as long as I stay away from SPEC (the only clutch known to kill the HD CSC) and XTD ($hit brand) then it would be damn nearly the same set up?

I definitely want the insulated clutch line so does the ACT offer it with their kit? As for the elimination kit does that mean an extra buck on labor by any chance?

I'll definitely look into the pulley system but does that mean I may need like 100% new pulleys? Like buy the light weight all over again?

As for suspension. Nah man, when I turn left or brake hard enough the front driver side sinks a whole heck of a lot more than the pass ever side. Plus it's starting to sound like something is loose some where when I drive over the reflectors and my alignment looses alignment like 3 days later. I know getting the arms will benefit anyway and it's all part of the suspension but... Well I still have a clutch to fix X) so we'll keep it at that for now haha. I am going to get the arms though before the coilovers. I was thinking of getting springs and installing that first too then worry about the shocks. Thoughts?

Every brand of clutch has different resistances for different stages of their clutch. There are also different feelings from having different flywheels and pressure plates. If you're going to do the HDCSC I would stay away from Spec just due to the known failures.

The extra buck spent on labor for either HDCSC or z1 elim kit, the HDCSC would take less time due to less parts from what I understand. Then again, paying for things to be done correctly and with the better parts does cost more. Also coming from someone whose had the HDCSC and then upgraded to the z1 elim kit, I do prefer the feel overall to the z1 elim kit.

I would assume if you have done the lightweight pulleys and have also done the new pulley belt you should be okay there, I would make sure it is still in good condition and not glazed in anyway yet.

As for the suspension, the reason why your alignment lasts 3 days is cause you're running OEM rear camber arms. Like I said they max in adjustment very quickly and driving as much as you do speeds up the process of wearing off the alignment. If you get the rear camber arms from SPC or SPL that will help the alignment problem.
As for the dipping of one side or the other, it does sound like coilovers, but its odd how they would go out on one side. I could also see if being a brake issue, not probable but possible.

As for the process of your suspension dilemma, I would have it diagnosed to figure out if the coilovers are the problem, if they are they fix those first. If its not then fix the issue, and then do the rear camber arms and lowering springs. After that do the coilovers and go with something good like the KW v3's instead of some piece of crap that you need to upgrade to swift springs to have any benefit.

Overall, take care of the clutch issue first. kinda need that to drive

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