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While we're talking about brakes, let me ask a few questions if I may. I have motul rbf 600 but I'm wondering if there is another fluid that has similar performance but doesn't require me to switch the fluid out as often. I know the 600 sucks up moisture more so you have to change it more often, and I'm lazy. Also, Z1 suggested Centric Posi-quiet pads which I went with instead of the Carbotech XP8's I was gonna do, along with drilled/slotted rotors, ss lines, and the Akebono caliper kit. I honestly don't notice a difference in braking performance at all from the base brakes I had. Do these perform better at higher speeds only (ie harder track-like driving) or could it be the pads that suck?
I need to drive a friend's car with the stock sport brakes to see if there's a difference or if I'm just expecting too much from the upgrade I did. Zdayz 2014!! |
The only way your going to notice a difference harder driving. Now if you switch to the Akebono it will be night and day. If you don't track no point in using that fluid IMO it's best benefit is a higher boiling point before it breaks down.
The rotors again won't help much unless you track or drive very hard for an extended period. I also don't recommend drilled rotors unless just for looks. |
Well that's my point, I went from absolute base brakes, pads, rotors and lines to Akebono calipers, the new rotors, ss lines and the aforementioned pads with the new fluid. I would think I would feel a difference just in everyday driving with the Akebono calipers.
I spoke with John at Z1 an hour ago and he said it sounds like I still have a small amount t of air in the lines. I can come to a stop quickly and even engage the abs, but I feel no difference between the base brake system and the upgraded sport brake package. Honestly they might have even decreased very slightly in performance. Zdayz 2014!! |
Oh I misread your post I thought you just had new pads and fluid at the moment. Something has got to be wrong to not notice a difference in the Akebonos and base brakes regardless of pads and fluid. The barking surface alone will make you stop more effortlessly.
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ill let you take mine for a ride huck, but i doubt were going to bump into each other anytime soon .lol
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BTW, going to Zdayz this year? I'll be there :) Zdayz 2014!! |
if we meet up your more than welcome to take it.
stalk away, you may meet some ladies in the bushes around my house. i have a few creepers. lmao i dont know a thing about z days. |
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Huck, The only other variable is if you're standing on the brake pedal lol. Then its not so much the brakes, but the grip that your front tires have with the pavement. Base brakes and Akebonos will stop the car in the exact same amount of distance when ABS kicks in because the brakes are at the mercy of tire grip. Of course, if you're not engaging ABS then Akebonos should be a very noticeable difference from base brakes. More surface area should stop the car easier. Less pressure applied to the brake pedal to get the car to stop. I did notice a slight improvement by swapping out my stock rotors with the Z1 slotted. They bite better but its not night and day. They're cheap and worth the looks, but if you want performance you really need a two piece rotor for weight savings. |
are steal braided lines worth for it for daily driving? im thinking all ill need to do is just get new pads. im not even sure if i need to turn the rotors. theyre in good shape. no grooves or anything
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Rotors are a dime a dozen. Getting 2 piece rotors is expensive and looks awesome. Just don't get drilled rotors, they heat up and cool during normal driving and crack. Get a rotor that is dimpled and slotted or one or the other if you go with 1 piece rotors. Fluids: What ever you use keep the same grade. Most are yellowish in color, I use Blue and Yellow Motal 600 & Amsoil 600. The purpose of the colors is when you bleed the brakes you know when you have evacuated the old. Unless you AutoX a lot or drive like a FastFurious guy all the time there is no need for DOT4 fluid. Its designed to have a higher boiling point. Sport Brakes are always over heating on long courses like Sebrings. Hawks Pads are fine CarbonTech is a full on AutoX pad and under daily driving conditions suck until they warm up.. Also ton of dust. I can do your brakes when your ready. If you keep your stock rotors; my advice is to get them turned to resurface them for the new pads. O, I have power bleeder so which ever way you go we can defiantly get some new blood in those lines. Example, my rotors were 480.00 for the front and 220.00 for the rear with PADS and life time warranty. Slotted and Dimpled. Do I feel a difference; no but they look sexy :tiphat: |
Not been on here in a while, still driving the s#*t out of my Z and enjoying it. Had a hectic month, my son graduated from FSU and moved back home within two weeks got a great job in California, we flew out there to visit him, he's training in San Fransisco then he has the choice of working in LA or San Diego. When we were due to fly back our flight got delayed, in the end we managed to get my wife and middle son, who came with us on a flight that night, I was supposed to fly out the next morning but I had a brain wave, he got a company vehicle with his job so we were going to ship his car back, instead I decided to bank the plain ticket and drive the car back, 3000 miles and 2.5 days later I got home, it was very hard work but a fantastic road trip!
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do we have any good vendors here that do brake packages?
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Are you looking for upgrading base brakes or akebono brakes, and are you looking to upgrade calipers as well or just pads and rotors? Z1 sells a kit to upgrade your base brakes to the akebonos, and they also have some pads and rotor kits, I'm not sure who has the best deals on aftermarket BBKs. I'm looking to upgrade my base brakes, but that's one of the last mods on my list, or at least until I get out to an autox event :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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