New dynos and some new conclusions!

I want to somewhat amend my earlier position on the G3's. Comparing mine to another 7AT with similar mods, the G3's car definitely made more power at peak (same day, same dynojet) -- much more than I would have expected!

Average gains over sucessive runs were closer, but there is no denying the power difference is there.

Now to be fair, this is not a PERFECT comparion. Some of the diferences could be due to other factors -- the Berk CBE outperforming my Nismo Weldina, for example -- but the peak differences are almost certainly due to the G3's outperforming the panel filters and tubes.

I think if you can find the G3's for $350 or less, it's definitely worth it over the smooth tubes and filters (if I can find a good bargin on one, I too may switch -- then we'll have very conclusive back to back evidence of the difference on the same car, same mods for all else! Anyone wanna chip in? :p )

On a budget, I stand by my earlier conclusion that the filters and tubes will do a good job, and are worth the money, especially given the incredible ease of installation.

However, the G3's definitely deserve way more credit than I had previously given them -- dynos below.

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...rk-hfc-cbe.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...ed-comparo.jpg

One more set of charts that is very informative -- oberve the effects of heat, humidity, and air pressure on dyno numbers. SAE corrected and uncorrected below.

All of these runs are same car, same mods, same tune, same dyno, but different times of year -- highest values were obtained in January, next highest and closest was from yesterday (end of October), and lowest was in the dead of summer!

This is Florida... imagine the differences in power over the year in places where they actually have seasons :p

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...essure-sae.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...sure-uncor.jpg

Oh, and BTW, as you can see, even using a correction factor, you get very different numbers depending on ambient conditions.... something good to keep in mind.

Sweet!

hey i live in orlando, fl and was wondering if anyone could install my stillen gen 3 intake and fi long tube headers. please get back at me as soon as possible. thank u

I can put you in touch with a guy in Tampa who is really good and will do the work for a good price, but you might want to find a shop in Orlando to make life easier...

Shoot me a PM if interested.

Excellent data set Jordo!

Thanks! :tup:

Addind to this old thread
-Engine Mods:
Art Pipes
F.I CBE 18" Resonators
Stillen G3's
NST Pulleys
Z1 25R Oil Cooler

Full Bolt ons untuned Vs Uprev Tuned
Weather conditions outside 83F 77% humidity
STD
http://i49.tinypic.com/312wnsp.jpg


SAE Corrected Numbers
http://i50.tinypic.com/34pzzm8.jpg

While we're here, a quick example of four bone stock Z's making 4th gear pulls. Two are 7AT, 2 are 6MT. Variance when torque and horsepower are equal is about 3-5, and peak values on all four are around 275/225, give or take a few by that margin.

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...gear-pulls.jpg

That variance of a few whp/wtq is probably due as much to ambient conditions (note the heat and/or humidity as well as air pressure) as anything, but other transient factors are probably at play too (e.g., wheelspin, break-in success, general measurement error).

Also note that some of the SAE correction factor (CF) values are pretty high -- as a rule of thumb, any CF > 1.02 is probably overcorrecting by a bit.

However, also note that STD CF's tend to be HIGHER than SAE, meaning they tend to be REALLY optimistic (I sometimes call them the "bragging rights" CF -- legitimate, but skews high rather than low). I personally prefer conservative over ego-sparing estimates. Think of SAE values as "sleeper" numbers -- your car is probably a bit more powerful than this number on the road; with STD, it's probably a bit less so in real life.

But that's for NA cars. For FI, the higher STD value is probably more accurate, because no CF takes into account the extra heat of compressed air, meaning SAE tends to greatly undercorrect by comparison.

Finally got my uprev done at S&R performance....
 

you'll have to accept these #s until I can figure out how to post the printout they gave me.
Max HP was 313.3@ 7025rpm
torque @ 7025 shows 234.2 BUT from 3000rpm to 5000rpm torque shows 260 almost dead flat and tapers to 250 at 6700, dropping obviously to 234 at redline.
printout reads DYNOmite not dynojet or mustang.

It will be hard to compare those readings to dynojet readings...

Do you have a baseline from when you were stock? That will make it easier to compare and contrast, because we can estimate the % gain from baseline.

Also, what mods?

.
 

unfortunately no baseline dyno. I have an unusual work schedule and have been trying to get the uprev for 2 months now.
Mods are stillen G3 and F.I. TDX 18" resonated w/ test pipes.
There were numerous Zs and Gs in the shop (including a brand new Nismo from North Dakota getting a top mount single turbo installed) I don't know if any of them have posted here.

Compared to stock, K&N Drop-ins + PostMafTubes = about what HP gained (on avarage throughout the rev range) ??

tnx

A gain of about 3-4% whp/wtq throughout the rev range from baseline. I'd say another 1-2% for the G3's.

Another nice comparison graph -- this one shows the changes in measured torque in three different gears.

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...es-3-gears.jpg

Note that from 3rd to 4th is about 4% change, and from 4th to 5th about a 2% change in peak torque.

Something to keep in mind when comparing one dyno to the next or when comparing your own runs.

So before swearing by a mod, or swearing off a mod, remember to consider similarity in ambient temps and air pressure (even with correction, as we see above, you get massive differences) and also what gear each run was done in :tiphat: