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Originally Posted by Z&I I agree somewhat ... In the end, you do need a reference calibration for the printer and why not take it a step further - why

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Old 10-15-2015, 11:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Z&I View Post
I agree somewhat ... In the end, you do need a reference calibration for the printer and why not take it a step further - why not nuetralize the camera sensor and image file ?

Trying to Color Correct looking at a monitor and then printing out can be hit or miss at best.
Your eyes can easily deceive you.
Going by the numbers is a proven way to produce a color accurate file.
Couple that with a correctly calibrated/nuetral printer and you are all set.

I started my life in photography some years ago as an apprentice to a pair of commercial photographers back in the days of film.
They shot primarily large format and 120 roll film.
I got to do the developing and printing...so I got my hands wet and my butt reamed when I ran a bunch of prints not up to their standards.
These guys were not only accomplished photographers but also technicians as well.
You really needed to know your stuff to get good repeatable results especially for demanding clients.

They drummed it in to my head to start off by making an in camera nuetral negative or transparency, and correctly exposed of course.
Various film emulsions required some amount of filtration to compensate for production batch differences and varying color temperature of the strobes or hot lights.
After that, everything else would fall in to place naturally - and they were right - good negatives made good prints.
The same holds true for digital files.

The steps I outlined only seem to be complicated at first, like reading an exciting technical manual.
They are in fact simple once you do it once or twice.
A couple of clicks with the eyedropper and you are pretty much done.
You've got a great foundation for added creativity if you so desire.

If not, you can always lessen the effect by fading the adjustment layer to your personal taste if you so decide.

From the Old School
I think we're trying to say the same thing. That's why I use the RAW file as my base image. It's usually already a neutral starting point. I've used the curves method plenty of times and it can be very helpful. All I'm saying is that color correction or any other type of correction doesn't need to be perfect, it just needs to fall into an acceptable range for the final displayed type. I've had the same images up on my iPhone, monitor and printer and all three display color very differently. Heck, the ambient room lighting you're viewing the device/print in changes how your eye sees color. It's really frustrating actually, but that's physics for ya.

It can also vary depending on what photo sharing site you're using and the final image file you save it as. Facebook for example, won't do your images any justice. The way they compress images makes them muddy. It's a wash trying to critique an image's color calibration if you're not seeing it on the exact same monitor in the exact same room. I create architectural renderings for clients and I kid you not, many can't comprehend that shade, shadows and brightness changes what color your eyes see. I show them one without shadows and they wonder why it doesn't look realistic

I totally agree that putting the work in to make it "perfect" will give you a stunning picture. I know it might not even be what you're sating, but I just think people can go overboard real fast trying to post process what should already be a great shot. Today's DSLR's do a pretty impressive job at calculating the correct exposure and color balance, why not take advantage?
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