DSLR Shots and Discussions

LunaZ · 07-24-2014, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeSemdyZee

Is that the F4 L lens?

Yes, that one.
I would like to ad an 85mm to my prime collection, though.

HKYStormFront · 07-24-2014, 01:34 PM

I love my 70-200 f/4 L... it's so light and it's unbelievably sharp. You really can't go wrong with any of the 70-200's, it just kinda depends on what you need/want.

6spd · 07-24-2014, 04:45 PM

I do just about all my portrait work with my 85mm, and in the future I'm going to have a hard time deciding between the 135mm and the 70-200mm. The surreal look of the 135 prime attracts me to it, but the versatility and quality of the 70-200 is hard to pass up. Just gotta make more money and buy both!

LunaZ · 07-24-2014, 04:52 PM

My 70-200 has been very versatile.
I guess the extra stops of the f/2.8 version are nice to have, but I rarely find myself needing to be down there except for the few times I've tried to shoot sports or nature in lower light conditions.

HKYStormFront · 07-24-2014, 05:24 PM

135 f/2 is hands down the best lens in my case. I try to use it as much as I possibly can. The compression coupled with the f/2 bokeh is just tits for lack of a better term. It's perfect!

TreeSemdyZee · 07-24-2014, 07:42 PM

The 70-200 F4 was the first L lens that I ever had. My brother gave it to me which caused me to return/sell all of the kit lenses that I had bought with my new camera.
I sold the f4 for almost the price of a new one and bought the 70-200 f2.8 IS II. It is DEFINITELY a lot heavier, but it is also incredibly sharp. I love it, but I need to use it more.

HKYStormFront · 07-24-2014, 09:36 PM

yeah if I was going to upgrade it would definitely be the f/2.8 IS II. For now I'm happy with what I have, especially for the $200 I have in it lol

Titan1080 · 07-25-2014, 12:31 AM

Some pics of a happy parent and young one

LunaZ · 07-27-2014, 10:50 AM

Working on a beauty story for Creem today.

6spd · 07-27-2014, 05:10 PM

Lucky...

I'm off to do an engagement shoot in about 15 minutes. While side work like this helps a little monetarily, it's so far from my photographer dream. In due time...

onzedge · 07-27-2014, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LunaZ

Working on a beauty story for Creem today.

kayha12 · 07-29-2014, 06:32 PM

Can we discuss White Balance when shooting white/silver cars? My camera is 90% of the time on AWB, I typically like my photos to turn out on the warmer side with how I do my post work, but with that being said. White/silver cars shoot really funny when in the shade, or post golden hours.

Anyone else notice this too? I typically end up correcting the temperature then desaturating the blue/aquas

Huck · 07-29-2014, 06:34 PM

Lol, I always forget my color card for WBing. I just leave it on auto.

Zdayz 2014!!

6spd · 07-30-2014, 09:06 AM

Alright, so WB. This is only going to applicable to newer, higher-end-than-most-wal-mart-inventory cameras. There are very few cameras that have a real accurate auto WB. The "best" way to try and get the right WB would be to use a white card, but if you forget it or don't have one, then that wouldn't be an option. In this case, take a shot using auto WB. Check it out in the image review on the LCD screen, or monitor/PC if shooting tethered (which no one really is going to, short of professionals), to see if there is a color cast. If you don't like the color, look at the image info to see what the WB was set to by the auto system. Set your custom WB temp to a slightly cooler (lower K) if too warm, or to slightly warmer (higher K) if too cool. These K settings are opposite of what most people perceive, ala HID headlights where the higher the K, the bluer the light and vice versa. The next key step is to keep shooting and practicing WB adjustment. There is no magic camera that will take a perfect (subjective) picture right out of the box or in any auto mode for the most part. So what is critical is to learn the relationship between shutter speed, aperture, and ISO, because if these settings are askew to start, auto WB will likely be off. Anyone who has set up a professional shoot, whether it is of a car, model, product, etc, will tell you that one does not simply show up with the camera, take a shot and then done. There is most definitely a period of time allocated to achieving the desired camera setting, so don't be afraid to park the car, take a shot or 2, then sit there on the ground for 5 minutes until you get the settings your looking for. Time and experience will improve your ability to correctly judge WB settings, and trust me, it won't take as long as you think.

Or...

Shoot in RAW and adjust later

6spd · 07-30-2014, 09:17 AM

Also, for quick reference, direct sunlight is a temp of roughly 5600K, as are speedlights and strobes. Mornings are typically cooler, around 5000K, so a WB of 6500-7000K may be needed. Midday is usually 5600K unless cloudy, then its cooler so 6000-6500k may be needed. Sunset is usually warmer, around 6000, so you may need to use 5000-5500K to offset the warm hue.

Cameras measure the light available to it, so if your main light is the sun at sunset, it is natural for your shot to have a warm color. If you try to neutralize the warmth of the subject, its going to neutralize the warmth of everything in the image. This does not necessarily apply when lighting the subject/background yourself.

I hope this all helps you guys!

07-24-2014, 01:34 PM	#2507 (permalink)
HKYStormFront A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Greer, SC Posts: 14,954 Drives: 06 Frontier SE 6spd Rep Power: 52	I love my 70-200 f/4 L... it's so light and it's unbelievably sharp. You really can't go wrong with any of the 70-200's, it just kinda depends on what you need/want. __________________ Patrick // 06 Frontier 6spd Nismosis // Mods: Uprev Tuned @ Z1 Motorsports: 257whp & 292 ft lbs 09 Pontiac G8 GXP // M6 // Sunroof // Tint... For now

07-24-2014, 04:45 PM	#2508 (permalink)
6spd A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South Florida Posts: 3,001 Drives: Q50RS Rep Power: 25	I do just about all my portrait work with my 85mm, and in the future I'm going to have a hard time deciding between the 135mm and the 70-200mm. The surreal look of the 135 prime attracts me to it, but the versatility and quality of the 70-200 is hard to pass up. Just gotta make more money and buy both! TreeSemdyZee likes this. __________________ -Jay- jonathanjamesphotographer.com

07-24-2014, 04:52 PM	#2509 (permalink)
LunaZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Vagabond Posts: 6,704 Drives: Project: a white one Rep Power: 512	My 70-200 has been very versatile. I guess the extra stops of the f/2.8 version are nice to have, but I rarely find myself needing to be down there except for the few times I've tried to shoot sports or nature in lower light conditions. __________________ 2009 370Z Sport/Touring/Navigation \| see my journal for mods facebook: Be my friend... or not.

07-24-2014, 05:24 PM	#2510 (permalink)
HKYStormFront A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Greer, SC Posts: 14,954 Drives: 06 Frontier SE 6spd Rep Power: 52	135 f/2 is hands down the best lens in my case. I try to use it as much as I possibly can. The compression coupled with the f/2 bokeh is just tits for lack of a better term. It's perfect! __________________ Patrick // 06 Frontier 6spd Nismosis // Mods: Uprev Tuned @ Z1 Motorsports: 257whp & 292 ft lbs 09 Pontiac G8 GXP // M6 // Sunroof // Tint... For now

07-24-2014, 07:42 PM	#2511 (permalink)
TreeSemdyZee Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kentuck-IANA Age: 60 Posts: 4,885 Drives: '09 370 & ‘14 Juke Rep Power: 27408	The 70-200 F4 was the first L lens that I ever had. My brother gave it to me which caused me to return/sell all of the kit lenses that I had bought with my new camera. I sold the f4 for almost the price of a new one and bought the 70-200 f2.8 IS II. It is DEFINITELY a lot heavier, but it is also incredibly sharp. I love it, but I need to use it more. LunaZ likes this.

07-24-2014, 09:36 PM	#2512 (permalink)
HKYStormFront A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Greer, SC Posts: 14,954 Drives: 06 Frontier SE 6spd Rep Power: 52	yeah if I was going to upgrade it would definitely be the f/2.8 IS II. For now I'm happy with what I have, especially for the $200 I have in it lol TreeSemdyZee likes this. __________________ Patrick // 06 Frontier 6spd Nismosis // Mods: Uprev Tuned @ Z1 Motorsports: 257whp & 292 ft lbs 09 Pontiac G8 GXP // M6 // Sunroof // Tint... For now

07-25-2014, 12:31 AM	#2513 (permalink)
Titan1080 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mill Creek, Wa Posts: 495 Drives: 04 Nissan Titan 4x4 Rep Power: 372	Some pics of a happy parent and young one onzedge, GaleForce and Pintsize725 like this. __________________ 2009 370Z w/ Sport

07-27-2014, 10:50 AM	#2514 (permalink)
LunaZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Vagabond Posts: 6,704 Drives: Project: a white one Rep Power: 512	Working on a beauty story for Creem today. __________________ 2009 370Z Sport/Touring/Navigation \| see my journal for mods facebook: Be my friend... or not.

07-27-2014, 05:10 PM	#2515 (permalink)
6spd A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South Florida Posts: 3,001 Drives: Q50RS Rep Power: 25	Lucky... I'm off to do an engagement shoot in about 15 minutes. While side work like this helps a little monetarily, it's so far from my photographer dream. In due time... __________________ -Jay- jonathanjamesphotographer.com

07-29-2014, 06:32 PM	#2517 (permalink)
kayha12 Base Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Clarksville, MD Posts: 88 Drives: 05 OBP WRX Rep Power: 12	Can we discuss White Balance when shooting white/silver cars? My camera is 90% of the time on AWB, I typically like my photos to turn out on the warmer side with how I do my post work, but with that being said. White/silver cars shoot really funny when in the shade, or post golden hours. Anyone else notice this too? I typically end up correcting the temperature then desaturating the blue/aquas LunaZ likes this. __________________ -Khoi I like to take pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kayha12/ Weekly meets with: National G Club

07-29-2014, 06:34 PM	#2518 (permalink)
Huck A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Cocoa, Florida Age: 42 Posts: 5,075 Drives: Pantydropper machine Rep Power: 33	Lol, I always forget my color card for WBing. I just leave it on auto. Zdayz 2014!! __________________ VLEDS \| Evo-R \| Moddiction \| CF Hood Struts \| F.I. CF CBE & LTH \| Stillen CAI \| NST Pulleys \| UpRev \| Z1 \| M7 \| Status \| Forgestar \| PSS \| Whiteline \| SPL \| SPC \| Kenwood \| Zenclosure \| Kicker \| Alpine Type R

07-30-2014, 09:06 AM	#2519 (permalink)
6spd A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South Florida Posts: 3,001 Drives: Q50RS Rep Power: 25	Alright, so WB. This is only going to applicable to newer, higher-end-than-most-wal-mart-inventory cameras. There are very few cameras that have a real accurate auto WB. The "best" way to try and get the right WB would be to use a white card, but if you forget it or don't have one, then that wouldn't be an option. In this case, take a shot using auto WB. Check it out in the image review on the LCD screen, or monitor/PC if shooting tethered (which no one really is going to, short of professionals), to see if there is a color cast. If you don't like the color, look at the image info to see what the WB was set to by the auto system. Set your custom WB temp to a slightly cooler (lower K) if too warm, or to slightly warmer (higher K) if too cool. These K settings are opposite of what most people perceive, ala HID headlights where the higher the K, the bluer the light and vice versa. The next key step is to keep shooting and practicing WB adjustment. There is no magic camera that will take a perfect (subjective) picture right out of the box or in any auto mode for the most part. So what is critical is to learn the relationship between shutter speed, aperture, and ISO, because if these settings are askew to start, auto WB will likely be off. Anyone who has set up a professional shoot, whether it is of a car, model, product, etc, will tell you that one does not simply show up with the camera, take a shot and then done. There is most definitely a period of time allocated to achieving the desired camera setting, so don't be afraid to park the car, take a shot or 2, then sit there on the ground for 5 minutes until you get the settings your looking for. Time and experience will improve your ability to correctly judge WB settings, and trust me, it won't take as long as you think. Or... Shoot in RAW and adjust later __________________ -Jay- jonathanjamesphotographer.com

07-30-2014, 09:17 AM	#2520 (permalink)
6spd A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South Florida Posts: 3,001 Drives: Q50RS Rep Power: 25	Also, for quick reference, direct sunlight is a temp of roughly 5600K, as are speedlights and strobes. Mornings are typically cooler, around 5000K, so a WB of 6500-7000K may be needed. Midday is usually 5600K unless cloudy, then its cooler so 6000-6500k may be needed. Sunset is usually warmer, around 6000, so you may need to use 5000-5500K to offset the warm hue. Cameras measure the light available to it, so if your main light is the sun at sunset, it is natural for your shot to have a warm color. If you try to neutralize the warmth of the subject, its going to neutralize the warmth of everything in the image. This does not necessarily apply when lighting the subject/background yourself. I hope this all helps you guys! __________________ -Jay- jonathanjamesphotographer.com

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