**Photography Chat** Version 1.0

kenchan

thanks. it's a tamiya kit.

wow... i always loved this alfa. wish i could drive the real thing. hahaha.

Nitex

Looks great ken! Could only get a bad pic of the RC, ill have to try again.



Got a decent shot of the stable atleast!



Cat insisted on getting in on the fun..

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2013 Drivers ED GTI | Stage 2 Unitronic

Alchemy

Nice Mini Ken, my buddy at work just built the same exact one.
Another snap of my rc from the other day...

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Ryan
314WHP | 260LB-FT | STILLEN | KONI | SWIFT | STOPTECH | Z1 | PROJECT MU | CNT | UPREV | FORGESTAR | BRIDGESTONE | PWJDM | ENEOS | MOTUL

kenchan

Nitex- thanks! dang, look at all the toys you got! and you have a cat too? nice picts.

Alchemy- thanks! I like the deep colors you got in there. I need to put more punch in my picts for sure.

Im going to play with the lighting so I can get more blue variation from my rug. Will also fix focus and use a click higher f/stop on the alfa's rear shot.

Nitex

I watched a few vids on you tube about ISO, aperture, shutter speed etc. Then followed that up with a quick lightroom 3 tutorial.

I think i learned a few things.. I took this RC pic before i watched the videos, so i think there is much to improve upon when using manual mode. But i tried to use tips from the photoshop tutorial. Here was the result.

Not great but i think my post process is starting to improve.



In lieu of my recent and very small amount of lessons learned, i would have raised my aperture just enough to get all the car in focus, and move the stupid stick. Also, for what ever reason i set my shutter speed at 1/25 using my 50mm. Would it have been better at 1/50th?

I should have manualy set my focus point after moving the stick as well

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2013 Drivers ED GTI | Stage 2 Unitronic

kenchan

Nitex-good color and clarity!

here's my take for today... biggest change from yesterday is i got rid of the annoying reflections on the panels by moving things around in the basement, adjusted apeture to get more of the car in focus yet tried to maintain interest on the front end of the car while lighting a bluer hue on the rear wheel to keep the eye moving. no adjustment made other than resize (no color, lighting, crop done)

Alchemy

Nitex, MUCH better than the first rc pic.
Ken, You are gettin good pretty damn quick. Nice shot.
I went out in the woods shooting this evening, was uninspired and came home empty.

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Ryan
314WHP | 260LB-FT | STILLEN | KONI | SWIFT | STOPTECH | Z1 | PROJECT MU | CNT | UPREV | FORGESTAR | BRIDGESTONE | PWJDM | ENEOS | MOTUL

phelan

What LR3 tutorial did you take? I feel like I'm not using the program correctly.

also - i'm debating grabbing an sb-400 speedlight and a 50mm prime lens. thoughts on the external flash? too early for a beginner to use / stick to the built in? or go ahead and try it out?

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凛 ('Rin') - 2009 Nissan 370Z
With silence comes peace. With peace comes freedom. With freedom comes silence.

Parkerman

I wouldn't get the SB-400, to my knowledge you can't bounce it.

If you could find yourself a used/new SB-600 that would be a good start.

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Red__Zed

You can definitely bounce the sb400. You can't twist or swivel, only rotate though

kenchan

Hey thanks alchemy!
yah, at your level I'm sure you don't want to just snap a pict of just anything.

Nick911sc

I've had great success using the chinese flashes made by YongNuo. All the features of the more expensive flashes for a fraction of the price. If you go this route make sure it has ettl, not just manual.

phelan

i thought the sb-600 was discontinued, that's why it's stupid expensive on amazon compared to the sb-400...

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凛 ('Rin') - 2009 Nissan 370Z
With silence comes peace. With peace comes freedom. With freedom comes silence.

Parkerman

Ahh, Dang... Im losing it apparently.


But if you were taking a verticle pictures though, you wouldn't be able to bounce it off a ceiling would you? It will only rotate upwards correct?

Thats why I would still suggest trying to find a used SB-600.

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Cmike2780

A off camera or at least shoe mounted flash is essenstial for indoor, even daytime outdoor work. It lets you control how objects or people are lit in the scene, which can mean the difference between looking like a snapshot or a work of art. If you want to up your photo work quality, a speedlight really improves it because you are less reliant on available light in the scene.

I use a SB-900 & a SB-600 as a slave strobe. I love how easy Nikons are when in comes to wireless speedlights. I would agree with Parkerman, the SB-600, even used is a much better flash, more powerfull, than the SB-400. Its well worth the extra expense. The newer SB-700 is probably out of your budget. The SB-600's also have "gels" you can buy that can match the lighting conditions and doesn't mess with the white balance. If the SB-400 is all you can afford to spend right now, its still worth it because the built-in flash is just about useless.

Also, a lot of people overlook white balance and just set it to "auto". Everyone should learn how to do a custom white balance with a grey card (very inexpensive, accurate and saves you a lot of time in post editing).

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