Track Pads

critical · 01-20-2014, 03:45 PM

bump

synolimit · 01-31-2014, 01:42 AM

You're still here? God go away, no one likes you.

threeseventy · 01-31-2014, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

You're still here? God go away, no one likes you.

Said the guy that plastidipped half of his wheels and posts magazine based bench racing threads in the track forum.

synolimit · 01-31-2014, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by threeseventy

Said the guy that plastidipped half of his wheels and posts magazine based bench racing threads in the track forum.

Lmao! Yep, only half.

You're out numbered pizza boy, find a new way home!

critical · 01-31-2014, 02:08 AM

as long as this keeps my thread bumped, continue. lol

wstar · 01-31-2014, 01:08 PM

FWIW, as it applies to re-using pads on a different set of rotors: fairly regularly I rotate my pads, swapping outside-left-wheel to inside-right-wheel and vice-versa, to even out any uneven wear (from tracks running CW or CCW with a predominant turn direction, I figure there's heavier wear on the tire carrying more force under braking - who knows, something does eventually though, random factors?). So I'm sure they re-mate to new rotor surfaces fine, mine always do.

threeseventy · 01-31-2014, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

FWIW, as it applies to re-using pads on a different set of rotors: fairly regularly I rotate my pads, swapping outside-left-wheel to inside-right-wheel and vice-versa, to even out any uneven wear (from tracks running CW or CCW with a predominant turn direction, I figure there's heavier wear on the tire carrying more force under braking - who knows, something does eventually though, random factors?). So I'm sure they re-mate to new rotor surfaces fine, mine always do.

That's correct! You re-bed pads every time you install. Properly done, it puts down new pad material on the rotor and deglazes the pad, if it's even glazed at all. I still have some XP10's in really nice condition from Spohn, as well as a few others.

cossie1600 · 02-01-2014, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by threeseventy

That's correct! You re-bed pads every time you install. Properly done, it puts down new pad material on the rotor and deglazes the pad, if it's even glazed at all. I still have some XP10's in really nice condition from Spohn, as well as a few others.

Yes you can transfer material to your rotors, but the initial break in where the original bonds and moulds are broken can only be done once. The first time it is installed. I learned that from some guys that were on an indycar team. I have 3 set of used carbotech pads in my garage now, I can tell you one set doesn't perform as good as the other two because I didn't bed them in properly.

If you can afford it, just buy new.

I hit 29K miles, I just changed my front rotors last week. I think I used that with 6 or 7 set of pads, too many to count.

cossie1600 · 01-31-2014, 02:27 PM

Maybe it's me, but I see inaccurate information posted on both sides. Generally you want to avoid race pads used because you don't kno how they were bedded in. They won't be as effective without the proper brake in. New rotors are nice, but you are not going to have a failure without it.

threeseventy · 01-31-2014, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600

Maybe it's me, but I see inaccurate information posted on both sides. Generally you want to avoid race pads used because you don't kno how they were bedded in. They won't be as effective without the proper brake in. New rotors are nice, but you are not going to have a failure without it.

It's always you, Cossie.

See above.

frost · 01-31-2014, 09:35 PM

Name calling is not welcome in this forum. What separates this forum from many others is the sense of community, and this definitely is not representative of that community spirit.

wstar · 02-01-2014, 06:12 AM

Or just switch to Carbon Lorraine pads. They basically eliminate all the break-in and maintenance mess. You just throw them on the car and drive and stop worrying about things, and it works

They last a pretty damn long time, too.

01-20-2014, 03:45 PM	#1 (permalink)
critical A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Washington Posts: 1,252 Drives: 09' 370z 7AT Rep Power: 16	bump __________________ Quaife w/ gears \|Stillen Gen 3\|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes \|SOLD FI 18'' \| 25row Stillen Race \| Progress 35mm/25mm sways \| Swifts/Koni\|Volk G25's\| Stoptech SS lines\|\|SPL Front/Rear Arms\|

01-31-2014, 01:42 AM	#2 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3390	You're still here? God go away, no one likes you. __________________ 13 370z-

01-31-2014, 02:08 AM	#5 (permalink)
critical A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Washington Posts: 1,252 Drives: 09' 370z 7AT Rep Power: 16	as long as this keeps my thread bumped, continue. lol dP3NGU1N, DEpointfive0, raymondo510 and 1 others like this. __________________ Quaife w/ gears \|Stillen Gen 3\|SOLD FI Resonated Test Pipes \|SOLD FI 18'' \| 25row Stillen Race \| Progress 35mm/25mm sways \| Swifts/Koni\|Volk G25's\| Stoptech SS lines\|\|SPL Front/Rear Arms\|

01-31-2014, 01:08 PM	#6 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	FWIW, as it applies to re-using pads on a different set of rotors: fairly regularly I rotate my pads, swapping outside-left-wheel to inside-right-wheel and vice-versa, to even out any uneven wear (from tracks running CW or CCW with a predominant turn direction, I figure there's heavier wear on the tire carrying more force under braking - who knows, something does eventually though, random factors?). So I'm sure they re-mate to new rotor surfaces fine, mine always do. threeseventy likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 01-31-2014 at 01:10 PM.

02-01-2014, 06:12 AM	#12 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Or just switch to Carbon Lorraine pads. They basically eliminate all the break-in and maintenance mess. You just throw them on the car and drive and stop worrying about things, and it works They last a pretty damn long time, too. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-31-2014, 02:27 PM	#9 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	Maybe it's me, but I see inaccurate information posted on both sides. Generally you want to avoid race pads used because you don't kno how they were bedded in. They won't be as effective without the proper brake in. New rotors are nice, but you are not going to have a failure without it.

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