Rear Diff Stub Shaft Short LSD drivers side

jchammond · 12-28-2017, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247

Well it is a 3.69... even though I thought the 3.92 would help more with 1/4 mile times. Just really hard to find a wreck with the 3.92.

The best part is it is like new, since its a 2016 model and it came from Summerville, SC so no snow or salt corrosion.

So.. the 2009 thru mid 2010 370Z uses threaded axles - with no threads in the stub shafts.

You'll be OK at track,,,weather has been off here & too cold for it to open.
w/27" Rubber-mine bump's the 7700rpm limiter@116mph in 4th,,,so you can play w/tire sizes & adjust.

SG4247 · 12-28-2017, 10:23 PM

My 285/40/18 MT ET street SS tires measure exactly 27" tall, so that sounds perfect at 7700 in 4th.

My car is not as fast as yours (yet) so I think I made the right choice with 3.69 and 7AT.

jchammond · 12-29-2017, 04:40 AM

That 285/40 is a lot of tire; as I was wanting to make a few passes with my worn out 345/30/19’s- but with cold weather setting in; they gonna have to come off & I’ll bolt my base 18” Wheels back on. Here’s a screenshot of my friend Blueranger’s ~Z~ as it’s possibly the fastest A/T Z & Roadster.

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blueranger · 12-29-2017, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247

Okay bought one from the Nissan Stealer.. $194.03 OTD.

Short VLSD driver side stub shaft 38220-JK01B does not have threads.

My 2010 VLSD diff does not have threads either. Bolt heads are on the diff side, and thread into the half shaft WHICH IS threaded.

The 2016 VLSD diff I bought to swap in, has threaded flange on the pass side. So, the long pass side flange will need the threads drilled out.

What the frick?

Why don’t you swap them out from your 2010 diff?

If you drill out try a 7/16 “cobalt” drill bit with drilling grease to help the process.

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SG4247 · 12-29-2017, 06:17 PM

Well, my 2010 diff only has 32K miles on it. Wanting to keep it all together and un-molested.

What size rear Hoosiers are those?

jchammond · 12-30-2017, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247

Well, my 2010 diff only has 32K miles on it. Wanting to keep it all together an un-molested.

What size rear Hoosiers are those?

I'm pretty sure they're 28x10.50x15

SG4247 · 12-30-2017, 09:47 AM

Anyone ever rebuild a factory VLSD?

Two questions:

1. Put the two c-clips in the side gears while the diff is apart? Or leave them on the stub shafts?

2. The total side gear clearance measures .005" which is in spec, but if I turn one stub shaft by hand (and hold the drive flange) the side gears and spider gears feel really notchy or ratchet like. Is this normal? The GM and Ford diffs that I have built were not like that.

SG4247 · 12-30-2017, 01:58 PM

The FSM says to place the C-clips in the side gears at assembly. That seems like it may make the stub shaft installation difficult.

Hopefully someone here has some prior experience....

jchammond · 12-30-2017, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247

The FSM says to place the C-clips in the side gears at assembly. That seems like it may make the stub shaft installation difficult.

Hopefully someone here has some prior experience....

Just put a little lube on the splines/tip ... start the splines & smack it in with a soft mallet.
Unlike the old school C-clips that are removed after removal of center pin.
Piece of cake!

SG4247 · 12-30-2017, 07:48 PM

Thanks JC!

BTW the stub shaft threads drilled out no problem to .425" diameter.

We in business now!

Thank you

jchammond · 12-30-2017, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SG4247

Thanks JC!

BTW the stub shaft threads drilled out no problem to .425" diameter.

We in business now!

Thank you

On quote#9 of this post i mentioned about removal of stub shaft's,,,as i purchased & installed a Quaife helical locker.
Jumping into the dis-assembly; i removed rear cover & pin that ran through carrier (where spider gears are)....after fighting & realizing that no way these shaft's push in & the C-clips fall off,,,,,i then went to the forum to see that they just pop out.
I wasn't working on a GM....lol

jchammond · 12-30-2017, 08:32 PM

Lots of good information on this thread-but read all the way through.

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12-29-2017, 04:40 AM	#18 (permalink)
jchammond A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: South Carolina Age: 58 Posts: 15,204 Drives: 13’ 370Z TS 7A/T Rep Power: 2684395	That 285/40 is a lot of tire; as I was wanting to make a few passes with my worn out 345/30/19’s- but with cold weather setting in; they gonna have to come off & I’ll bolt my base 18” Wheels back on. Here’s a screenshot of my friend Blueranger’s ~Z~ as it’s possibly the fastest A/T Z & Roadster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ MazWorx built long block \| FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 \| IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

12-29-2017, 06:17 PM	#20 (permalink)
SG4247 Track Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: OKC Posts: 786 Drives: 2010 touring Rep Power: 7842	Well, my 2010 diff only has 32K miles on it. Wanting to keep it all together and un-molested. What size rear Hoosiers are those? jchammond likes this. Last edited by SG4247; 12-30-2017 at 09:48 AM.

12-30-2017, 09:47 AM	#22 (permalink)
SG4247 Track Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: OKC Posts: 786 Drives: 2010 touring Rep Power: 7842	Anyone ever rebuild a factory VLSD? Two questions: 1. Put the two c-clips in the side gears while the diff is apart? Or leave them on the stub shafts? 2. The total side gear clearance measures .005" which is in spec, but if I turn one stub shaft by hand (and hold the drive flange) the side gears and spider gears feel really notchy or ratchet like. Is this normal? The GM and Ford diffs that I have built were not like that. Last edited by SG4247; 12-30-2017 at 01:54 PM.

12-30-2017, 07:48 PM	#25 (permalink)
SG4247 Track Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: OKC Posts: 786 Drives: 2010 touring Rep Power: 7842	Thanks JC! BTW the stub shaft threads drilled out no problem to .425" diameter. We in business now! Thank you jchammond likes this.

12-30-2017, 08:32 PM	#27 (permalink)
jchammond A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: South Carolina Age: 58 Posts: 15,204 Drives: 13’ 370Z TS 7A/T Rep Power: 2684395	Lots of good information on this thread-but read all the way through. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ MazWorx built long block \| FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 \| IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

12-28-2017, 10:23 PM	#17 (permalink)
SG4247 Track Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: OKC Posts: 786 Drives: 2010 touring Rep Power: 7842	My 285/40/18 MT ET street SS tires measure exactly 27" tall, so that sounds perfect at 7700 in 4th. My car is not as fast as yours (yet) so I think I made the right choice with 3.69 and 7AT.

12-30-2017, 01:58 PM	#23 (permalink)
SG4247 Track Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: OKC Posts: 786 Drives: 2010 touring Rep Power: 7842	The FSM says to place the C-clips in the side gears at assembly. That seems like it may make the stub shaft installation difficult. Hopefully someone here has some prior experience....

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