Calling all Bikers!!!

Togo

I'll definitely check that out, Thanks

Togo

NP man

Togo

Sweet ride. I want to get a nice cruiser soon enough. I love the rockets but a sweet chill bike would be alright by me too.

Snakes709

So last week my girlfriend thought it would be nice and clean the inside of the 370z. She had to start the car but doesnt know how to drive. She thought the car was in neutral but it wasnt. She started the car and took her foot off the clutch and it launched into my ZX6R. Front bumper of the car was hanging off with 3 small cracks in it. Bike was on its side with damage to the front cowl, both upper and lower right and left fairing and the kick stand. Today i started tearing everything off to replace it and to do a oil change before i put it away for the winter...here is some pictures.

Togo

Oh man, sorry to hear that. You seem to be having a rough month! Hope it all starts to work out for ya buddy.

Snakes709

indeed. First the bike fell over on the car, either caused by wind or kids....im thinking kids. Which did some damage to the bike and 2 dents in the car. Now my gf running the car into the bike. I priced the oem parts i need from a site i heard was good. $1400 shipped for the plastics, decals, kick stand parts. After i get those im buying 520 sprocket conversion for better accel. Full exhaust, K&N air filter, dynojet power commander, fender eliminator and a few other parts i found. Then once the weather gets better in the spring ill dyno tune it.

Togo

I sent ya a PM Snakes. What is your chain size now? I know the 636 came stock 520 but I geared mine anyways with a +2 rear. If you gear it, I recommend getting a "speedo healer". They are only like $100 but it can be programmed to correct your speedo back after changing the gearing on your bike. I set mine up so that it read the same factory speedo calibrated error so that I'd have accurate milage.

Snakes709

i been looking at it. To tell you the truth, i have no idea what my stock sizes are. I'm still learning about the mechanics on bikes. I'm seeing in my manual something that might be it (Primary Reduction Ratio: 1.900 (76/40) and then Final Drive Ratio 2.688 (43/16)) so iiunno. I'm going to talk to a guy at the dealership i go to...he has the same bike as me so he should know what i should get. As for the speed healer, i plan on getting that as well. It fixes the error with rpms right? When i raced my bike on the drag strip a few times the gauge was lagging bad....showing 13000rpm but really i was bouncing off the limiter which is like 16500rpm.

Togo

Nah the speedo healer corrects the MPH or KPH in your case back to being accurate. The reason being is the bike calculates this based off (i believe) the sprockets and when you gear them it changes what the bike perceives the speed to be. I gear mine +2 rear teeth to add acceleration and lower my top speed. It also meant that at 65 MPH my bike would read like 71 MPH. You can program to the speedo healer to show that your bike is back at 65 MPH which also means your milage will be accurate again because with your MPH off that means your milage will increase faster than it really is. You might go for a 500 KM ride but your bike will read 700KM. The speedo healer will fix all this.

Sport bikes come with a calibrated error in speedos. I have no clue why but all our speedos read 5-7% high from the factory. Mileage is always dead accurate from the factory though. They call it a calibrated error and it is intentional. When you set the speedo healer, make sure they keep the calibrated error in otherwise your milage won't read correct. I kept my error from the factory because I didn't want my milage to come on faster and show more miles than true.

Togo

Oh and the final drive ratio might be your gearing because that sounds about right. 43 teeth in the rear and 16 teeth in the front. Lemme see if i can find it for you.



Yeah from what I can tell you sit at a 16/43 setup OEM. If you go go down a tooth in the front you get accel over top speed or if you go up in the rear it's accel over top speed. If you go -1/+2 (which was really popular on my 636 and other 6Rs) you'll get crazy accel but be careful because she'll be prone to wheelies and head shake (tank slappers) will also be a bigger concern, FWIW. Consider a damper, they are worth their weight in gold. I went with Scotts top mount, it has 3 points of mounting vs. the GPR unit which is just one. However the Scotts requires you to drill and tap your frame and the GPR does not. Scotts>GPR on quality and effectiveness and GPR>Scotts for install ease. I've ridden with an Ohlins damper too which seemed nice but I didn't really push it cause it was a demo bike. The other thing thats good about Scotts is it is universal with a bike specific mount plate. If I buy a new bike, I just need the mounting plate and I can use the same Scotts on that bike too.

HR sells a "Speedotuner" (thats the product name) which appears like it might be plug and play. I had to splice mine in which made me nervous but I installed it in 15 minutes so not too bad.

Oh, my stock error was 5.5% and from what I've seen most guys with your bike where saying 5.5-5.9% which is what we saw on our year as well.

Snakes709

thanks for the info. I do want more accel so you recommend 520 concersion ( -1 front and + 2 rear) is that how it works? I'll be getting all these things over the winter and install them when i get back from doing security with the army for the winter olympics at the end of march.

Togo

Yeah you can go -1/+2 or just a +2 or +3 rear and leave the front alone. It depends on how much more acceleration you want. Also consider that if you do a lot of highway riding you will always be in a higher RPM the more you gear for accel. This also translates into worse gas mileage.

I was going to do -1/+2 but no one had sprockets that I wanted in stock, AFAM or Renthal was all I'd use, no Vortex sprockets. I was able to get 0/+2 though with Renthal and that has been great. I also went with a DID ERV3 520 chain. Depending on your milage and the sprocket sizes you will want to get a new chain. If your chain is new then you might be able to stay stock but if you've got some miles on it you'll want to change it out. Also I think you can only stay stock if you go like +2 or +3 but if you -1 up front too you'll have too much slack on the stocker.


EDIT- the basic rule of thumb is that -1 front equals +2 or 3 (usually 3) rear. So a -1/+2 setup is the same as going 0/+5.

Snakes709

well i orderd a new stand and bolt since i couldnt fix those two parts that are bent...didnt need the whole kickstand thank god...just those 2 parts. Also i orderd a K&N filter...is it to early to change the filters...i have almost 8000km on the bike...2000km is here in edmonton which is really dirty. I know the manual says 18,000km but i like to do things early, just wondering if this is to early. Like i said, by the winter i will have alot of parts and then when the spring comes around getting the bike dyno tuned.

Togo

Nah not too early to change the filter out. I run a K&N as well but it doesn't offer any real performance gains. I just run it cause I can clean it and reuse it instead of buying new filters.

Snakes709

i keep hearing mixed things about it. That it gained like 2hp and it does a shitty job at filtering stuff...but then other people say different. Like you said...im not expecting anything out of it except that i can clean it and re-use it