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So I've come to realize that my Z is the most expensive thing in my life. I'm not saving much money with it, because the payments + insurance + gas
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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Drives: 2012 370Z
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So I've come to realize that my Z is the most expensive thing in my life. I'm not saving much money with it, because the payments + insurance + gas easily put it over $1000/mo for me. Having owned a 350Z and this being my second 370Z, I've come to love the car quite a bit. But I think it's time to get something cheap and a little more practical. My thinking is a Lexus IS300 and here is why. My buddy is a mechanic at Toyota, and used to be a mechanic at a Lexus dealership prior to that. He knows the car inside and out, and he said it is very reliable, being one of the least common cars to be brought in for service when he worked there. Also, he can help me look for one in good shape and should I need to repair it, he can order parts at dealer cost for me.
The thing is, I don't know that much about these cars.. I've always liked the way they looked and know they have the same engine as the N/A Supras, so they should be pretty reliable. Does anyone here have any experience with them? Would you recommend the IS300 as a daily driver, considering they are 8-12 years old now? I would like to find something for $13K or less. Do you guys have any other suggestions for cars to consider? I don't think I want a coupe anymore, and I'd like it to have semi-decent fuel economy. Thanks for all your input in advance!
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#2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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My Hyundai Sonata before the Z was cheap and reliable! Only $285 a month and I bought the 2011 in 2010
As far as Gas, My car actually get's as good of gas mileage as my Wife's 4 banger! The Z is my Daily Driver and I put A LOT of highway miles on her
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#3 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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My sympathies on you getting old and responsible.
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2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel |
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#4 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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I've got a LOT of experience with them, I am a Toyota fanboy, BIG TIME... The major things you have to look for in the older IS300's is random maintenance, the engine is bullet proof, we all know that, but I'd still try to find something under 100k miles, if you're looking for a manual, make sure its a POST 2002 model, or else they did a swap (I don't trust people who do that, LOL) And most people beat on the manual, especially because it was hard to find...
Honestly with a car that old, your biggest things will be belts, plugs, pumps... Make sure the belts have been replaced recently, if it's under 100k miles it'll probably need a timing belt, which CAN be pricey, I'd change the spark plugs, and just have some spare cash in case the A/C dies on you, especially because you're in Phoenix... |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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#6 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: SoCal
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Figure for a 2005 with 75k miles, $10-11k? If you can ask to have the car's compression tested, do it, again, I don't assume the engine will die, but if you're serious about buying it, $20-40 is worth the money more than any damn carfax... Also, if you don't know how to tell if a car has been painted or repaired, please look it up, or take a buddy with you... (If you're looking to buy a car from the Southern CA area, I'd be more than happy to give it a look over for you) This isn't a smokin deal, but I'm just throwing it out there: 2002 Lexus IS 300, $12,870 - Cars.com |
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#7 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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If I were going to get out of a 370Z and needed to get into something for $13K or less, it would be a C5 Corvette with highway miles. Why? 300rwhp, great handling/dynamics, the LS1 is a VERY durable engine (mine had 150K miles and ran the same as it did when I bought it at 72K miles), the T56 is a very durable transmission (same story), and the C5 still looks "new" because the styling is very contemporary, even today. If not for the C6, people would think the C5 were current production. That's the only $13K car I can see myself driving in the sports-car category, but you will have to stretch your budget a bit to get into one for that, or you will have to find one with highway miles on it or something. I recommend a 2001 or newer because they got the LS6 intake/PCV system, and that will give you 10whp and save you some headaches as well. The C5 gets better mileage than your 370Z, as well, btw. My LS1 car got better average and highway mpg than my 370Z, at least. It was a heavy brick of a Trans Am, too, compared to the lighter, sleeker (0.34CD vs. 0.29CD) C5. The C5 is a pretty robust system. You might go through some wheel-bearings if you track the car hard, but that's about it. I was told T56's need a rebuild every 80K miles, but I got 150K miles out of mine with no problems except reverse was a touch hard to get into sometimes, which is a common ailment of the T56 (nothing crazy, just hold pressure on reverse and let the clutch out slow and it pops right in.) Anyway, over-all, the C5 is cheap to work on (except the transmission, sadly), and very simple, while retaining very very good performance and feel. It probably feels way better than a 370Z, I know I prefer how my C6Z felt compared to my 370Z, over bumps and in corners. Much better car, stability-wise. Now, all this being said, I totally empathize with your wanting to cut cost. I am going to either refinance my 370Z, or move into something cheaper myself in the next 4 years when I build a house. Why? I would rather be able to afford more house and less car, and the 370Z will be a "has been" after 2015, anyway, what with all the new stuff coming out. I would love maybe a little BRZ if they can find a way to install a turbo... Anyway, you might also consider an S2000 in your price range. I dunno, I am thinking sports-car to sports car. PS: I would NEVER own a car with timing belts. F that. I never have, and never will. Go into any dealership that belongs to a brand that predominantly sells timing belt equipped cars and I promise you will find several mangle-valved heads sitting around. They pop. Simple as that. A timing belt is as much of a deal-breaker as if you told me that the car had a giant apparatus that plunged up through the driver's seat-cushion and randomly had its way with you. Because that's exactly what it does to your wallet. Last edited by ImportConvert; 10-05-2012 at 04:41 AM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Thanks again for the replies guys. The reason I'm not considering cars such as the C5 and S2000 is because I won't be saving much in terms of gas or insurance. Both are classified the same as the Z - 2 seater sports cars. I want to get away from that, and get something 4-door. I'm sure that later down the road I'll be returning to the sports car world, and can definitely see myself owning another Z, if they don't screw up the next gen too bad. But for now I need to take a back seat
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#10 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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If you think 4 door car is going to be cheaper on insurance, don't get an EVO. You will be surprised.
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2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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#12 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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What IS a lot better in the 370Z is the suspension. I had to install coilovers in my C6 because the Z51 suspension was a joke. The 370 inspires A LOT more confidence.
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2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel |
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#13 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Also, I hate my 370Z's suspension compared to my Z06 or the Grand Sport C6's I drove. The crappy weight distribution and the complete and utter lack of rebound control make the 370Z plow in the corners and bounce all over the place if you hit a bump. Corvette did a MUCH! better job planting the ride and handling the curves IMO/IME. Further, enter a corner in the 370Z and accelerate for balance and you might "go over the edge"---you can't stop accelerating after a certain point of you lose the back end when the weight shifts forward---hope you gauged things right. With the Corvette, you can back off without near the drama. "Plan as you go" in the corvette. Not so much the 370Z. IMO/IME. Now, back to OP... ...What about a G35S? They are nice cars, peppy, cheaper, etc.? Man, I really just don't know what to recommend. The Lexus IS is nice, but then, you are paying a premium to work on things, and those Japanese cars suck in my opinion. Why? They just fall apart once they get old. Not the engine itself or anything, but all your rubber bushings, things like that. Everyone I know who ever had an older Lexus/Infiniti/Nissan has run into that. The "little stuff" just seems to be pure junk. It falls apart. I ran into that on my G20, my friend Cara ran into that on her Lexus RX300 and Lexus car (I forgot what model, around 2001), and my friend has run into it on his Frontier. Sure, the motor keeps turning and the trans likely won't take a dump, but to keep the car 100% functional will totally kill you nickel-dime wise. Great design and implementation and fit/finish and all that, but it's "weird" how some of it "goes together" and unnecessary in many cases, and the material the small-parts are made from is like bargain-basement from the 1995-2003 era it seems. Cracks, breaks, falls apart. My 1988 mustang GT held up better than my 2002 G20 and it sat in some old guy's lawn for years, lol. Interior had no cracks, body bushings were great, etc. If that had been a Lexus? Anything not made of metal or glass would have been worthless. Even their metal and glass seem inferior to American counterparts. My 370Z is literally the crappiest windshield I have owned---other than my G20. Japanese stuff just isn't as durable. My G20 windshield cracked with the heater turned on when it was cold out. Twice. My 370Z? It has tons of peck-marks, and broke with less than 500 miles on the car. My Z06 sat way lower and never had any issues. One TINY! peck when I sold it, and it sounded like a 9mm hit my windshield when I got that, probably would have fubar'ed my 370Z. I have no idea why this is, but it has been my perception from owning American and Japanese automobiles. YMMV American cars, it seems to be stuff like window motors, water pumps, that sort of thing, but the other stuff does good, if you can put up with a somewhat crappy interior. So take your pick, I guess, but the older American car is probably going to be a better choice for insurance, as well as "restoring/keeping" at 100% function. Last edited by ImportConvert; 10-09-2012 at 02:34 AM. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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If Nissan wants me back for the next generation, they will fix the weight distribution "issues" of the 370Z. Other than that, killer car all-around and I love it! |
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#15 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Look into Volkswagen. Really solid quality German cars for reasonable prices and great fuel effiecency.
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|2013 Audi S4|Ibis White/Black|S-Tronic P+| |2013 370z|PearlWhite/Persimmon|Touring/Sport/Nav|F.I. CBE 18" CF| |Sold|2011 370z|Gun Metallic|Touring/Sport/Nav| |
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