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Traded my 370z for a New 2011 Corvette Grand Sport

Originally Posted by TBSS2008 ImportConvert did you do some kind of break in with your Corvette? I am not finding much information on it but have been performing the Z

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Old 05-03-2011, 11:54 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TBSS2008 View Post
ImportConvert did you do some kind of break in with your Corvette?

I am not finding much information on it but have been performing the Z break in. Not going over 4000rpm and no WOT until 1200miles or first oil change.
0-500 miles = no constant speed, no WOT, and no over 4000rpm, and no speed over 55mph, vary rpm and speed within these parameters.
5-1500 miles = no HPDE's.

This is from your owner's manual. However, at Bowling Green, my car was driven at 80mph and over 4000 rpm just on the alignment machine.

The real key is to not shock the driveline, be gentle with the brakes and clutch, and don't go thrashing the motor right from the get-go, although one of the engine-builders I spoke with who is on the forum says the break-in is mainly for the driveline and not the engine.

What I did with mine was the same as the owners manual, except over 500 miles I gradually worked up from about 3K rpm to 6K rpm or so, and I did not abide the 55mph for fear of being rear-ended.

I varied load on the driveline, did NOT shift it hard or launch the car, and let the engine engine-brake down from about 3500-4000rpm or so when I was slowing down.

Currently with 2200 miles on the car, the driveline is nice and quiet, and the engine uses NO oil. For the first road-trip (varying load, speed, rpm, running it up and down the rpm band as described) it dirtied up the exhaust tips pretty well. Also, I did not check oil level originally as I should, but it was 1/2 quart low compared to where it is now after the oil change at 500 miles (I did this on my own, not per manual). The exhaust now does not get dirty, and it has used NO! oil in over 1500 miles since the oil change.

I am very happy with what I did, how I did it, and the engine-builder I talked to seems to agree.

*WIth your dry-sump, make sure you check the oil at the same TEMPERATURE (oil temp) and the same TIME after shutting the car off (5-15 minutes, I use 5 minutes). Checking it with just a 30* difference in oil-temp is equal to about 1/3 quart difference in levels on the oil-stick. This is a sensitive procedure to get an accurate reading. I freaked out and learned the hard way,lol.

As to a radar-detector, I know I am trying to sell you (at a loss) my MirrorTap hardwire unit for a Valentine 1, but as good advice from me to you, my Dashtronix was worth the money and the install is flawless. If you want to save the money though and want a V1, I'm here for ya on the wire-tap setup if you want it. I am in LA and will cross-ship with you and depending on where you are in Texes you should get it the next day or thereabouts.

The reason I recommend the Dashtronix is that the little dots on a V1 are hard to tell what band is hitting you, especially at night, and the whole thing just lights up your car and is very uncool imo how conspicuous it is. The Dashtronix uses your HUD and/or your DIC to display warnings and the V1 stays dark. The Dashtronix is also a way to hardwire the detector flawlessly.

Last edited by ImportConvert; 05-03-2011 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:38 PM   #32 (permalink)
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The real key is to not shock the driveline, be gentle with the brakes and clutch, and don't go thrashing the motor right from the get-go, although one of the engine-builders I spoke with who is on the forum says the break-in is mainly for the driveline and not the engine.
Great information about the driveline, I have been easy on it. It’s been 3yrs since I've had a stick shift so I am still just getting use to shifting with a clutch. The 7AT paddles really spoiled me but man did I miss a 6spd!

Quote:
*WIth your dry-sump, make sure you check the oil at the same TEMPERATURE (oil temp) and the same TIME after shutting the car off (5-15 minutes, I use 5 minutes). Checking it with just a 30* difference in oil-temp is equal to about 1/3 quart difference in levels on the oil-stick. This is a sensitive procedure to get an accurate reading. I freaked out and learned the hard way,lol.
When I checked the oil as described above it was right between the top and bottom holes. I can tell you that the oil temps have not gone over 190F, even when it was 95F outside and I was getting into a little. My Z would be 220 - 240F in the same ambient temps (95F) no matter how easy I was on it. I read up on the Dry-Sump System and it impressed the hell out me, very cool. Video: 2010 Corvette Grand Sport Dry Sump Oil System Explained

Quote:
As to a radar-detector, I know I am trying to sell you (at a loss) my MirrorTap hardwire unit for a Valentine 1, but as good advice from me to you, my Dashtronix was worth the money and the install is flawless. If you want to save the money though and want a V1, I'm here for ya on the wire-tap setup if you want it. I am in LA and will cross-ship with you and depending on where you are in Texes you should get it the next day or thereabouts.

The reason I recommend the Dashtronix is that the little dots on a V1 are hard to tell what band is hitting you, especially at night, and the whole thing just lights up your car and is very uncool imo how conspicuous it is. The Dashtronix uses your HUD and/or your DIC to display warnings and the V1 stays dark. The Dashtronix is also a way to hardwire the detector flawlessly.
I have a cheap Radar Detector and may upgrade later. But I won't be getting anything for sometime after the Wife gave in letting me trade in my Z for this amazing car. And you are right about the deals on the Corvette. I pick up my 11 Corvette GS 6spd 1LT with the optional exhaust for $48.5k, out the door right at $50k. Still more expensive then my Z ($40,150.00) but considering the MSRP was $56,700.00 on the Corvette I think I did ok.
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Old 05-03-2011, 01:29 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Great information about the driveline, I have been easy on it. It’s been 3yrs since I've had a stick shift so I am still just getting use to shifting with a clutch. The 7AT paddles really spoiled me but man did I miss a 6spd!



When I checked the oil as described above it was right between the top and bottom holes. I can tell you that the oil temps have not gone over 190F, even when it was 95F outside and I was getting into a little. My Z would be 220 - 240F in the same ambient temps (95F) no matter how easy I was on it. I read up on the Dry-Sump System and it impressed the hell out me, very cool. Video: 2010 Corvette Grand Sport Dry Sump Oil System Explained



I have a cheap Radar Detector and may upgrade later. But I won't be getting anything for sometime after the Wife gave in letting me trade in my Z for this amazing car. And you are right about the deals on the Corvette. I pick up my 11 Corvette GS 6spd 1LT with the optional exhaust for $48.5k, out the door right at $50k. Still more expensive then my Z ($40,150.00) but considering the MSRP was $56,700.00 on the Corvette I think I did ok.
Very nice! The hottest my Z06 has gotten oil-temp wise was around 207 or so sitting/idling.

My oil level sits on the very top hole, bisecting it. I check it at 185-190* and 5 minutes after shut-off.

My car stickered for around $76K and I walked out with it, and a 7/70 bumper to bumper GMPP warranty and TT&L at 8.6% for $73 and change, plus a free 2-day trip to the racing school within a year of purchase.

The TR6060 is built like a brick out-house and with the new synchro's for '11, you shouldn't have a moment's trouble with it.

*on some grand-sport models*, there is a factory idiosyncrasy. The rubber bump-stop was left off the hood on the passenger side. Check yours.

Last edited by ImportConvert; 05-03-2011 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 05-03-2011, 01:33 PM   #34 (permalink)
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nice!
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:41 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Pictures don't do the GS justice. I wish Chevrolet would offer the blue/white/red paint scheme that was on the 96' GS. I just bought a 96 Viper GTS and might sell my 370Z soon.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:47 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I have driven both my old 350Z and 370Z for more than 9 hours straight and my back has never hurt.

Must be an old injury or lack of exercise.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:51 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Congrats I was sayin the same to myself looks like Nismos
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Old 05-03-2011, 10:45 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Congrats on new toy!
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:06 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I have driven both my old 350Z and 370Z for more than 9 hours straight and my back has never hurt.

Must be an old injury or lack of exercise.
Everyone's physiology and body mechanics differ slightly. 1" taller or shorter and the way the seat fits the person is entirely different.
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:07 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Yes indeed, but I would have rathered not say that about OP's car in OP's thread, even if that's how I feel.

Thought about your post here a bit more, and why someone would go out of their way to be a douche and...

In retrospect, I think you're still asshurt that I wasn't crying over the tsunami 100% of the time when it went down. So, this is your little jib-jab.

Here is the thread if you want to read it again
earthquake in japan

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Old 05-03-2011, 11:14 PM   #41 (permalink)
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For me, the C6 seats were the most comfortable ever!
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:32 AM   #42 (permalink)
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The biggest problem I had with the C6 is the way the lower dash and seats were built. My knees get very close to the bottom of the dash, I get very nervous whenever I am tracking the vehicle.
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Old 05-04-2011, 01:07 AM   #43 (permalink)
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*Makes toilet-flushing sounds*
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Old 05-04-2011, 08:30 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Ah, check this out. Wow.
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:47 AM   #45 (permalink)
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congrats man, thats 2 guys in San Antonio alone with major oil consumption issues who jumped to Domestic

Of cource mine also had throttle delay/ loss of throttle
super high oil temp
seat were unstiching

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