Couldn't start my z this morning. I've tried my regular keyfob, my secondary keyfob, replacing the cr2032 battery in the keyfob, checked starter battery voltage(good), tried jumping it anyways(no difference).
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12-22-2014, 01:35 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Keyless ignition switch broken?
Couldn't start my z this morning.
I've tried my regular keyfob, my secondary keyfob, replacing the cr2032 battery in the keyfob, checked starter battery voltage(good), tried jumping it anyways(no difference). The start button stays in the lock position, I can't even get the accessories to turn on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOhAJVkm-Qk Its a 2011 which afaik are not affected by the common steering lock issue. Also as far as I know, vehicles with that issue are still able to at least get into accessory mode. The only ideas I have at this point are: 1. Maybe the actual start switch has failed. (I put in a GTR start button as one of my first mods years ago and have not had any issues until now) I would not expect the switch itself to fail, but I suppose that is possible. I can try swapping back to the stock switch and see if that helps. Or 2. Whatever RFID sensor in the car that senses my key has failed somehow?
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12-22-2014, 01:59 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Check the clutch pedal switch. A cheap VOM will do the job.
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12-22-2014, 02:05 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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I should be able to at least turn on accesories regardless of the clutch switch. I can't even do that.
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PPE Headers SS/Coated/Wrapped | Ebay y-pipe | Custom 3" single exhaust w/ Magnaflows | UpRev | Racingbrake 2pc Rotors | 40th calipers | Eibach sways | SPL endlinks, diff mounts | RJM pedal | Stillen Intakes, UDP, Flywheel | M370 Manifold | Z1 engine mounts, CSC-EK, Clutch | Forgestar F14 18x10 | Conti DWs | Quaife diff/4.08 gears | Nismo diff cover |
12-22-2014, 02:13 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Just because you're not on the recall list doesn't mean it's not your ESCL. You just have the Rev D model, which has documented failures even before the recall.
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12-22-2014, 03:36 PM | #5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Also I just accidentally triggered the "feature" of rolling down my windows all the way by holding down the unlock button too long. Now I can't roll them up since I can't turn on accessories.
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PPE Headers SS/Coated/Wrapped | Ebay y-pipe | Custom 3" single exhaust w/ Magnaflows | UpRev | Racingbrake 2pc Rotors | 40th calipers | Eibach sways | SPL endlinks, diff mounts | RJM pedal | Stillen Intakes, UDP, Flywheel | M370 Manifold | Z1 engine mounts, CSC-EK, Clutch | Forgestar F14 18x10 | Conti DWs | Quaife diff/4.08 gears | Nismo diff cover |
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12-22-2014, 03:40 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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take the key out and turn and hold in lock position to roll windows back up
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12-22-2014, 03:41 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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also do you have any lights on the dash? such as the key light? couldn't hurt to try banging on the box with something heavy and pressing the start button over and over again
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12-22-2014, 03:45 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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Thanks, got the windows back up at least.
I tried swapping back to my stock start button, didn't make a difference. The dash lights can be seen in the video.
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12-22-2014, 03:47 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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tap on the wheel lock module under the steering column can use tow hook if in a jam tap on the box while pressing the start button
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Zele front bumper cf front lip, Seibon TS Hood, Work GS2, Ings+1 side skirts Takeda CAI Litespeed Exhaust |
12-22-2014, 04:02 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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nothing happens
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12-22-2014, 04:45 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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Also just checked all the harnesses on the IPDM module, unplugged and replugged, nothing looked like bad connection. I think the module might be fried.
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PPE Headers SS/Coated/Wrapped | Ebay y-pipe | Custom 3" single exhaust w/ Magnaflows | UpRev | Racingbrake 2pc Rotors | 40th calipers | Eibach sways | SPL endlinks, diff mounts | RJM pedal | Stillen Intakes, UDP, Flywheel | M370 Manifold | Z1 engine mounts, CSC-EK, Clutch | Forgestar F14 18x10 | Conti DWs | Quaife diff/4.08 gears | Nismo diff cover |
12-22-2014, 04:51 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Check out the STR section of the FSM for diagnostics, wiring diagrams, &c.
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12-22-2014, 05:26 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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Looked at my steering lock unit and it is a revision C, and I've read that the latest is rev D. Maybe that is what failed after all.
So if I understand this correctly, the fuse removal trick is only pre-emptive and won't help if your steering lock is already dead? Is there a way to bypass this issue without buying another worthless part?
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PPE Headers SS/Coated/Wrapped | Ebay y-pipe | Custom 3" single exhaust w/ Magnaflows | UpRev | Racingbrake 2pc Rotors | 40th calipers | Eibach sways | SPL endlinks, diff mounts | RJM pedal | Stillen Intakes, UDP, Flywheel | M370 Manifold | Z1 engine mounts, CSC-EK, Clutch | Forgestar F14 18x10 | Conti DWs | Quaife diff/4.08 gears | Nismo diff cover |
12-22-2014, 05:33 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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If beating on it doesn't work then you can try to disassemble it and put the mechanical parts in the right position. There's a DIY on here somewhere.
Yes, removing the fuse is a pre-emptive measure. Once the ESCL fails, you're boned. There is no bypass that I am aware of.
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Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma |
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