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What type and brand to use in replacing your clutch fluid? Thanks.

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Old 10-20-2014, 09:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Clutch fluid

What type and brand to use in replacing your clutch fluid?
Thanks.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Motul RBF600
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Any high quality DOT 4 brake fluid will do in the clutch master. I like the German-made ATE Gold 200, for a good combination of high heat performance, affordability and low hydroscopic properties.
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Motul RBF600


If you're serious, Torque RT700 and Castrol SRF are probably your top choices.
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Do you know how many bottles I need?

Does autozone or petboys would carry motul 600?
I wont have enough time to have it delivered from amazon or Z1.
Car needs to be done by Wednesday.

Thanks guys.
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Flushing the clutch, I've never needed much. A single 500mL bottle will be plenty.

I've never found it at the chain auto shops. Woods Fun Center here in town usually has it in stock (for ~40% markup) if I need it immediately. Otherwise, I just call a nearby shop and ask them to order it for me (they can usually have it for me the next day).
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks Jar!

Unfortunately they don't do that fairly quick in my little old town. Lol

Rep handed!
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Old 03-05-2015, 01:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I just flushed my clutch fluid a few days ago... After a lot of research I ended up putting DOT 3 brake fluid. Apparently the reality is that the brand does not make a difference because DOT 3 and DOT 4, etc all require the same specifications and standards. DOT 4 isnt necessary if you dont track your car. Just dont use DOT 5 as that does not mix with either 3, 4, or 5.1

fyi: im not saying dot 4 or dot 3 have the same standards, I mean in order to be dot 3 or dot 4, all brands must meet same requirements.
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Old 03-05-2015, 02:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I just flushed my clutch fluid a few days ago... After a lot of research I ended up putting DOT 3 brake fluid. Apparently the reality is that the brand does not make a difference because DOT 3 and DOT 4, etc all require the same specifications and standards. DOT 4 isnt necessary if you dont track your car. Just dont use DOT 5 as that does not mix with either 3, 4, or 5.1

fyi: im not saying dot 4 or dot 3 have the same standards, I mean in order to be dot 3 or dot 4, all brands must meet same requirements.
Given that these cars have CSC problems, and the first thing Nissan does to try and fix it is step up to a DOT 4 brake fluid, why would you go with a DOT 3? Also, why would you not want as high a boiling point as you can get given how easily our cars boil clutch fluid?
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Old 03-05-2015, 02:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
Given that these cars have CSC problems, and the first thing Nissan does to try and fix it is step up to a DOT 4 brake fluid, why would you go with a DOT 3? Also, why would you not want as high a boiling point as you can get given how easily our cars boil clutch fluid?
I can agree with what you are saying. For me, the only quick reputable brand i could get at the store was dot 3, so i went with it. The temperature difference is only about 45 degrees however, so I really doubt that it would end up doing damage going with Dot 3. From what i understand our cars come with DOT 3, dont they?
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Old 03-05-2015, 02:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I can agree with what you are saying. For me, the only quick reputable brand i could get at the store was dot 3, so i went with it. The temperature difference is only about 45 degrees however, so I really doubt that it would end up doing damage going with Dot 3. From what i understand our cars come with DOT 3, dont they?
It won't damage anything, it's just far from optimal. With the hydraulic problems these things have, why do anything but the best? It may prolong the time you have before the slave blows out.
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Old 03-05-2015, 02:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It won't damage anything, it's just far from optimal. With the hydraulic problems these things have, why do anything but the best? It may prolong the time you have before the slave blows out.
Yeah I agree. So what do you think if I turkey baster remove the dot 3 from just the reservoir and add in some dot 4? (meaning not bleeding it out of the line again). Would this be worth it, or just leave the DOT 3? I just dont want to redo the process again
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Old 03-05-2015, 02:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yeah I agree. So what do you think if I turkey baster remove the dot 3 from just the reservoir and add in some dot 4? (meaning not bleeding it out of the line again). Would this be worth it, or just leave the DOT 3? I just dont want to redo the process again
Do that, and go with a short interval before you bleed again. Don't worry too much about it. The CSC will fail either way.
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Old 03-05-2015, 02:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Do that, and go with a short interval before you bleed again. Don't worry too much about it. The CSC will fail either way.
Hahaha lets try and be optimistic here!
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Old 03-05-2015, 02:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Hahaha lets try and be optimistic here!
There's no question about it, unfortunately. If you have an OEM plastic slave cylinder, one day you will be forced to replace it. Either you have replaced one, or you will. Honestly, go ahead and buy the HD replacement and mothball it. One day you'll be glad you had it on hand.
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