P1606 VVEL issue/code

Carbon_z

Has anybody experience this issue? Two weeks ago I experienced the same code plus p1089 and 1092, which went away once I replaced a relay. However p1606 has come back and I am absolutely stumped after multiple attempts are fixing the issue. Does anybody have any kind of recommendation or suggestions. Car will not rev past 1500 rpm. I tried swapping out relays like prior but this time the issue remains.

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warpeacelove

P1092 Infiniti VVEL Control Shaft Position Sensor Bank 2 Circuit OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com

Carbon_z

Yes the code it's reading now is p1606 vvel. The 1089 and 1092 were prior codes last week that went away with relay replacement. Just giving history. Any other suggestions?

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Carbon_z

Might have found corrupt. Vvel module

P1606 VVEL CONTROL MODULE
< DTC/CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS > P1606 VVEL CONTROL MODULE

DTC Logic INFOID:0000000006217951
DTC DETECTION LOGIC
DTC No. Trouble diagnosis name (Trouble diagnosis content) DTC detecting condition Possible cause P1606 VVEL CONTROL MODULE (VVEL control module) • VVEL control module calculation function is malfunctioning. • VVEL EEP-ROM system is malfunctioning. • VVEL control module
DTC CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE 1.PRECONDITIONING
1. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. TESTING CONDITION:
Before performing the following procedure, confirm that battery voltage is 10 V or more at idle.
>> GO TO 2.
2.PERFORM DTC CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE
1. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 1 second.
2. Check DTC.
Is DTC detected?
YES >> Go to EC-451, "Diagnosis Procedure". NO >> INSPECTION END
Diagnosis Procedure INFOID:0000000006217952 1.PERFORM DTC CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE
1. Turn ignition switch ON.
2. Erase DTC.
3. Perform DTC Confirmation Procedure.
See EC-451, "DTC Logic".
Is the DTC P1606 displayed again?
YES >> Replace VVEL control module. Refer to EC-536, "Removal and Installation". NO >> INSPECTION END
E

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warpeacelove

Get that replaced.

SouthArk370Z

When troubleshooting, the FSM is your best friend.

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Steveo1848

P1606 master mechanic at Nissan said same thing. It's the vvel control module. So had that replaced and two weeks later the same **** is happening. Was your issue fixed when replacing the module or did you do something else?

mendoza_ms

Bumping this thread back from the dead. I too have experienced this potentially fatal problem. I apologize for the long post, but I hope someone will find this info useful.

Vehicle
2009 Nissan 370Z Touring w/Sport pkg
~100k miles

Relevant Mods
- Optima yellow-top battery
- DIY grounding wires
- Test pipes
- 02 bung extenders
- JWT flywheel and pressure plate
- ACT 6-puck sport clutch
- K&N filters
- Mishimoto oil cooler

June 10, 2011
A few years back I had a road-side malfunction where the all the electronics flashed like crazy, engine shut off and steering wheel locked while in the middle of a turn and it was raining hard. Car lost all power, lost brake pedal pressure and slowed to a stop at the intersection. I was lucky I didn't crash into the car in the lane next to me! Mods I had at the time were Stillen CAI, Optima yellow-top battery and grounding wires. This problem was later compounded by the AAA tech who arc'ed my battery. Warranty voided... I never found out what the underlying root cause was, but I suspected it could have been a sketchy LoJack installation but who knows.

Dealer stated ECM, BCM and Camshaft Position sensor were fried by the tech. Parts replaced out of my own pocket. Then, no problems for several years and I have driven my car HARD ever since. Good times...

September 18, 2017
I hop in my car ready to go to work when I noticed it started and idled wierd. Whatevs, let the Z warm up.

As I pull out of my parking spot, NO THROTTLE RESPONSE. I am talking next-level "limp-mode". Car would not rev higher than ~1800RPM and could not go faster than ~10 MPH. Code reader said P1606, couldn't find much on the web except for on the370z.com...

I left the car overnight and started it in the morning. Nothing wrong at all, perfect throttle response. WTF. "Maybe I put 87 octane by accident again?". Drives fine on the road. No problems, until last week...

November 24, 2017
I hop in the Z for some sweet Black Friday shopping and on the way to the freeway, I pull up to a Golf GTI who wanted to play. Fine, whatevs let him hear my test pipes, let the wheels chirp, etc. Get on the freeway entrance hauling at 80MPH when suddenly...POW!!!!

There was an audible 'POW' sound and I felt violent jerk. I had a sudden loss of power, no throttle response, car started idling really weird and I had make an emergency stop on the shoulder. I then crawled for a mile on the shoulder at a max of ~8MPH and parked it at a gas station until I could get assistance later that night. The code reader showed the same p1606... MF'er...

Wire harness to module and relays (near battery compartment) look solid. Fresh gas (91 octane), ground wires solid, no smoke, no fluid leaks, battery just under ~14v.

Sooo....it looks like it's either the VVEL module or VVEL relay that's messed up. It could be related to the incident with AAA (above) and maybe it took this long for those components to crap out. So I bought the module on ebay for $55 - I'm hoping that works. Bought a new set of spark plugs and a can of Seafoam just in case.

mendoza_ms

Update

I have another P1606 symptom for you all...

So, I got the replacement VVEL module in the mail last night and it looks like it's in good shape!

While I wait on the rest of my parts to arrive, I decided to move the Z into the shop (aka "the backyard"). And as I was backing in/out (at ~4MPH ) I noticed I had NO BRAKE PEDAL RESPONSE!

Basically the brake pedal was super stiff and so I had to resort to using my E-brake to help stop and move the Z into position. I checked the Brake Master Cylinder and vacuum hose and they looked okay, so If I had to make an educated guess I would say that the VVEL module may also be responsible for controlling idle air pressure needed to run the BMC. Otherwise I hope this is unrelated, as I am fairly confident I didn't blow my head gasket...

I'll keep you guys posted. I've dealt with worse so I am optimistic.

1st

I hope you get this figured out. Maybe somebody can chime in with knowledge or same symptoms/experience.

mendoza_ms

November 28, 2017
Spent a little time in the battery compartment area last night (where the VVEL Module and VVEL relays are stashed). I followed the diagnostic procedure here - thank you btw fritz

VVEL relay diagnostics problems

I got the VVEL relay off and didn't see anything suspicious. I ruled out the relay being burned out since swapping with its neighbor (the power window washer relay) had no effect and the washer motor and window washer both still work. The wires to those relays and my DIY grounding cables look fine as well.

Unfortunately, I ran out of time and couldn't finish getting the VVEL module out last night. But here is procedure:

(page EC-116 to EC-124)
Factory Service Manuals - NICO Club

Word of advice, to remove the VVEL module you NEED to first remove:

- battery compartment plastic shrouds/finishers
- the battery
- IPDM E/R (basically that huge black relay box next to the battery)

The VVEL module I is held in place with three 12mm bolts. I will get to the module itself next...

mendoza_ms

December 3, 2017

I don't understand - replacing the VVEL should have fixed it. I finally got to the VVEL module and replaced it with the one i picked up from eBay.Removal of the harness from the VVEL module is a pain in the a**:

The way you do this is use a tiny flat head screw driver to pull out these white slider tabs from the big black connector. The connector comes out in steps (or feels like it comes out in steps), by that I mean you pull the white tabs out a bit and tug on the connector and repeat 3 times, pulling the white tabs out a bit further each time. The black male connector on the VVEL module has 4 studs that these white tabs lock onto.

Anyway, after replacing the module there was only a slight change in cranking the engine (I now get a p1606 pending and a P0300 pending in addition to the same p1606). Otherwise still no throttle response.

I tried pulling out and swapping the relays again, no effect either. I ran through the diagnostic/troubleshooting section in the FSM and all steps lead to "replace the module".

So, do I have 2 faulty VVEL modules?? AND two blown relays?? I am not getting codes for a relay, so It's unlikely, but possible. I am going to get a hold of the eBay seller and try my luck with an exchange... At this point I am defeated but I am not giving up... Since I need to pull the VVEL module out to get a replacement anyway, I might as well remove the intake manifold and check/replace the spark plugs - who knows.

mendoza_ms

December 4, 2017

I got a hold of a local Z shop, Precision Z in Canoga, CA. They've never worked on a P1606 issue before and are willing to help, but I decided to give it one more try before I hand it over to the pros. They stated that if I want to assume that the replacement VVEL module works, then there has to be a problem with the signal to/from the module, which means I should check out the IPDM (basically the Z's engine bay fuse box). If I find a blown fuse, then that would be the underlying root case. Otherwise, I should try to perform the VVEL learning procedure (which I totally neglected to do).

What I plan to do next is the following diagnostic procedures in the "370Z Bible" (aka Nissan 370Z Factory Service Manual):

- ADDITIONAL SERVICE WHEN REPLACING CONTROL UNIT (VVEL CONTROL MODULE) (EC-18)
- ACCELERATOR PEDAL RELEASED POSITION LEARNING (EC-19)
- THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING (EC-20)
- IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING (EC-20)

mendoza_ms

December 11, 2017
The fires here in SoCal made it tough for me to work on the Z, but the car is finally FIXED!

Ok so I feel REALLY STUPID, but basically it came down to one or both of the Camshaft Position Sensor connectors coming loose.

I basically found this out while the car was running - I was frustrated and started tugging on wires and plugs when suddenly I felt a tiny "cough" in the idle throttle response. Turned out it was the driver-side CPS plug. So, I cleaned it up and connected it and throttle response came back the next time I started the engine. Ahhhh... 5000+ RPM revs, how've I've missed you.

Hindsight
Looking back, I do recall having replaced the spark plugs recently (~6,000 miles ago maybe). Part of that process involved disconnecting/unplugging various connectors in order to remove the intake manifold and parts. My guess is when I put everything back I didn't double-check my connectors, which that one then later unplugged itself under some harsh driving conditions.

What I don't understand is why I didn't get other codes, like for the Camshaft Position or Idle Air Volume or something else. I just got a vague P0300...Anyways...

Lesson learned - Always make sure you push connectors until you feel/hear a 'click', otherwise they will unplug themselves and cause you a bunch of headaches.

Anyway, I hope my experience helps someone in the future!

mendoza_ms

February 4, 2018
It f**king happened again...

This time I had just recently did an engine flush and oil change. Along with a fresh change of 5W-30, I added some Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer and Slick50 Engine Restorer (my z just hit 100k).

I took it out for a spin after the oil change and went to get gas at the Costco nearby. Everything was smooth until the first stoplight on the way back home. I suddenly lost throttle response and get the CEL. Its a good thing I was on surface streets this time!

Code reader gave me a P1606, P0300 and a U1024 (wtf?). Rough Idle.

After some troubleshooting I stopped getting the other codes and stayed with the P1606. I recalled that tugging on the driver's-side Camshaft Position Sensor plug had some beneficial effect so i tried that. Nothing...

So I unplugged the sensor while the car was idling...nothing...

Finally, I unplugged the passenger's side Cam sensor as well and the car DIED, so I guess it was a bad sensor? To verify this I pulled out both Cam sensors - which were really hot - and saw that they were caked in oil (not burned though). I sprayed both down with degreaser and popped them back in. Still idling rough, still getting P1606. I had to think about it hard.

February 5, 2018
Today I went home to try and swap the Cam sensors to see if I could learn anything new, but I didn't need to - the Z started right up and sounded STRONG. "I know what this is!" I said. It's a faulty Cam sensor that has accumulated some heat damage over several years of harsh driving conditions. I let it run for a few minutes and throttled it like I usually do and didn't have any problems. That one sensor must get hot over some time and start to fail intermittently.

I ordered replacement sensors online and will replace both of those before I actually try to commute with it again - call me paranoid. I'll keep you guys posted!