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Need Help - Car Stalled and wont start

With sensors, I always stick with OEM. But dude, you really got do something about that stupid dealership. At minimum, they should fix the sensor for free.

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Old 10-03-2014, 06:54 AM   #76 (permalink)
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With sensors, I always stick with OEM. But dude, you really got do something about that stupid dealership. At minimum, they should fix the sensor for free.
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:15 PM   #77 (permalink)
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You need to go back go to that dealership and demand your money back for the diag fee. I am a manager at a nissan dealership, so I know first hand that what they did is very illegal. They completely miss diagnosed your car and charged you for just that. First try the service manager, if he can't help you at all, go to the general manager. If that doesn't work you should take them to small claims court. Just make sure you document all the repairs you made. It should be cut and dry.
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:22 PM   #78 (permalink)
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its been a few days...fixed or not?
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:17 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Sorry I have been out of town traveling and unable to get new sensors to try or even switching the sensors.

Hopefully tomorrow i will get a chance to diagnose more with the car.

Thanks guys!
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:26 AM   #80 (permalink)
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So my one concern is that Nissan told me my compression test came back and said i had 80lbs of compression and they told me i should be around 170. Would my motor have started if i was really at 80lbs of compression?

Also, I was thinking of contacting the BBB.... suggestions? not really sure how the best way to go about this is. I also had a claim open with NNA so i could call them back as well.
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:30 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Quote:
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So my one concern is that Nissan told me my compression test came back and said i had 80lbs of compression and they told me i should be around 170. Would my motor have started if i was really at 80lbs of compression?
Maybe, maybe not. Did they also perform a leakdown test? If you've got a cylinder at 80lbs, you've got a dead motor unless they screwed up the test.
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:34 AM   #82 (permalink)
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So my one concern is that Nissan told me my compression test came back and said i had 80lbs of compression and they told me i should be around 170. Would my motor have started if i was really at 80lbs of compression?

Also, I was thinking of contacting the BBB.... suggestions? not really sure how the best way to go about this is. I also had a claim open with NNA so i could call them back as well.
I don't know what the compression specs are but they are in the FSM if you want to verify the 170 number.

IMNSO, you need to find a new shop. Good luck. I tried three Nissan dealers in S AR and N LA and none of them seemed to be able to work on a Z.
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Old 10-10-2014, 02:34 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Replace the bad sensor and then confirm the car is otherwise OK. Perform your own compression test on the engine to see if what Nissan says is true.

If what they said is true, they probably did the compression test first and then decided to just tell you straight out that you need a new engine and didnt bother to diagnose why it doesnt run.

If what they said is false, then just pretend it never happened and/or call Nissan corporate and tell them how this dealer attempted to screw you into a new engine and you can probably get your $300 diagnostics back.
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Old 10-10-2014, 04:10 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
Replace the bad sensor and then confirm the car is otherwise OK. Perform your own compression test on the engine to see if what Nissan says is true.

If what they said is true, they probably did the compression test first and then decided to just tell you straight out that you need a new engine and didnt bother to diagnose why it doesnt run.

If what they said is false, then just pretend it never happened and/or call Nissan corporate and tell them how this dealer attempted to screw you into a new engine and you can probably get your $300 diagnostics back.


Make sure the compression is right.
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Old 10-10-2014, 05:09 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Oh and I forgot to answer your question, yes the engine will run and it will run just fine with 80psi compression. But it will be down on power and economy, and may burn oil. Each cylinder is tested individually. If only one cylinder tests so low, you might not even notice the loss in power during part throttle driving.
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Old 10-11-2014, 03:46 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Update: new sensor installed and car does not start. Once sensor is disconnected car starts up fine again. Any ideas what else to check
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Old 10-11-2014, 03:51 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Also it is throwing same error as before. P0340 - camshaft position sensor A
Circuit bank 1 or single sensor
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Old 10-11-2014, 05:07 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kholy View Post
So my one concern is that Nissan told me my compression test came back and said i had 80lbs of compression and they told me i should be around 170. Would my motor have started if i was really at 80lbs of compression?

Also, I was thinking of contacting the BBB.... suggestions? not really sure how the best way to go about this is. I also had a claim open with NNA so i could call them back as well.
with these motors its hard to perform a compression test because the throttle boddies need to be wide open to get a good reading and the way ours work there not until the car actually is runing they stay closed no matter what on start up then fully open and allow the cam actuators to control revs . the only way to get good accurate numbers on these cars is to leak down them ..
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Old 10-13-2014, 12:37 PM   #89 (permalink)
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You will still get a usable compression test number. Or just simply unbolt the throttle bodies or remove the brake booster and EVAP vacuum lines so it can get at least some airflow in there.

BTW the throttle system is activated without the engine running if the car is in gear. I have never looked to see if it stays activated while cranking. 50/50 likeliness on that. But I think it does.
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Old 10-15-2014, 08:52 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
You will still get a usable compression test number. Or just simply unbolt the throttle bodies or remove the brake booster and EVAP vacuum lines so it can get at least some airflow in there.

BTW the throttle system is activated without the engine running if the car is in gear. I have never looked to see if it stays activated while cranking. 50/50 likeliness on that. But I think it does.
the car starts... so i am assuming i could do it that way.... it just doesn't rev past 3,500

car sounds 100% normal running no sounds or anything. But as soon as that sensor code is cleared the car shuts off
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