Just had an interesting twist in my problem.... So Nissan called and said i need to pick my car up or they will start charging me storage. I had my
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09-30-2014, 08:47 PM | #61 (permalink) |
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Just had an interesting twist in my problem.... So Nissan called and said i need to pick my car up or they will start charging me storage. I had my nice neighbor tow it home for me and got the Z back in the garage while i decided what i would be doing with it. I have a mechanic friend who really wanted to come look at the car so he came over with his scantool and did a scan on the car. He saw the cam shaft sensor bank A error which i had previously. Hes like did you check the sensor maybe just the sensor bad. I said i didn't replace it. he pulled the sensor and was like see if it starts now. Started right up after cranking a few seconds. Was able to let it run and shut off and back on. So now i am very angry with my local dealer who told me my motor was completely blown and wanted like 10,000$ to replace it. They ended up charging me 300$ to do diags on my car and all they could tell me was my engine was blown and i needed a new engine.
Sorry for my long ranting, need to find out what to do about nissan and my **** but my car started!!!! OMG!
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09-30-2014, 09:02 PM | #62 (permalink) |
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Maybe I missed it what was the code? Nissan crank and cam sensors are notorious...but if its the dreaded p0011, well good luck....could be a vtc hub or a stetched chain...low and dirty oil will stretch a chain. Replace the sensor and fix the car before you get mad...and mad won't get your money back keep your cool and talk to the right people at the dealer...you will have to go higher than service but dealers shut down a lot when you threaten and act like a JA...the vtc hub actuators do not like dirty oil it's actually in the GSM to change the oil and test with some cam codes
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09-30-2014, 09:08 PM | #64 (permalink) |
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Nissan Dealership Issues
So Recently in the start of Aug my 09' 370z stopped working while I was driving. I had the car towed to my local Nissan dealership. I explained that I was driving and the car had shutdown on me and would not start back up. After 1 week of Nissan having my car they said they would need to do further tests as their initial tests they could not get the car to start/figure out any problem. They then called and wanted to charge me 300 dollars to do more diags and compression tests (Which they said if insurance covers the car will be covered). They did the compression tests 2 weeks later because they had to wait for some tools and a lift (i dont understand this as this was reason i took to nissan thinking they would have the equipment) and determined that the motor has jumped time and was blown and would need replacement. So after a few weeks of arguing about warranty because i was over an oil change and they said i was low on oil which caused the car to jump time (which now that the car is back i checked the dip stick and the car was at the L but has oil).
So I had the car sitting in the garage and a buddy of mine wanted to look at the car and see what he could find out. First thing him and I did was run a scan on the car again and saw the code was still a Sensor throwing the error. We unplugged the sensor and tried to start without the sensor and the car started right up after a few seconds of cranking. Ran fine and sounded perfect. Now, what do i do about nissan? My car is running and i am going to replace that sensor but they charged me A) 300 dollars for doing nothing, B) wanted me to spend 10k on a new motor and C) was complete dicks about every single thing. (for example: explaining after market intakes cause these sort of problems) Thanks and sorry for long rant
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09-30-2014, 09:12 PM | #66 (permalink) |
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I would call Nissan consumer affairs and pitch a bitch to them and file a complaint. The tech and/or service writer were trying to bend you over for some money in my opinion.
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09-30-2014, 09:17 PM | #67 (permalink) |
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try changing the sensor and change the oil and see if it comes back.
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09-30-2014, 09:20 PM | #69 (permalink) |
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Even though they did almost nothing? You still may have to just bite the bullet and eat the cost, and move on to another dealer.
The good thing is you basically fixed it for the cost of the dealer time plus the cost of the bad sensor. Good job! On diagnosing it yourself. EDIT: I merged your threads Last edited by Trips; 09-30-2014 at 09:26 PM. |
09-30-2014, 09:33 PM | #71 (permalink) |
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The other thing to do before you spend the money on the sensors is to swap the bank1 and bank two sensors. If it is the sensor it will throw code p0345 instead of the current p0340, otherwise you can spend $130 on sensors that you cant return and won't fix the problem. Do this first.
Edit: if the code doesn't move it may be a wire or connector or something physically wrong in bank one like a stuck timing pulley.
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09-30-2014, 10:09 PM | #72 (permalink) |
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ec-270 in fsm.
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09-30-2014, 10:34 PM | #74 (permalink) |
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10-01-2014, 09:22 AM | #75 (permalink) |
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If there is a known problem with these sensors should i get an aftermarket sensor or a factory sensor again (after i test to see if bank switches)
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